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448 Shakedown Run


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#1 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 05:45 PM

I got the rebuilt rototiller buttoned up and into the garden today. It was really too wet, so I only made one pass fairly fast to loosen up the soil for faster drying. Had no problems, so I must have done most of the repairs on the tiller and tractor right. It was easy to sink it up to the tine shaft and putt along at half throttle on this first pass.

The work today was only to look for anything that might still need attention and I did find a few things yet to do. The tiller is fine. The tractor ran nicely and handles MUCH better with the steering work and new Tri-Ribs on the front. I only have 70 pounds of front weights on it, 'cause I'm still waiting for a new bracket to hang my suitcase weights. It handled pretty well as-is, until I tried to take off too fast uphhill and the front end lifted a bit.

My ammeter is acting erratic, sometimes showing 10 amps charging, and most of the time not showing anything, so I have a loose connection or something there. I don't have the lights wired up yet and there are several wires need replaced. I think the heat problem was taken care of with the new (used) muffler with more hood clearance. I ran it under load for about 45 minutes with no problem on the hood paint or decals. This tractor has a holding valve but does not have a flow control valve, so tilling exercised my left arm, tweaking the ground speed.  I'll watch for one of those to come up for sale.

I think I have the loosening steering bolt problem fixed with a dose of brake cleaner, air hose, then some blue Loctite. The steering wheel only has about 2" of dead travel at the rim now, reduced from 3 times that before the overhaul. All the slack is in gear mesh now.

The rebuilt carburetor works flawlessly, and controls well. The new yellow Tygon gas line is a plus, since I can see fuel in it and it is not supposed to harden like the old black stuff. . The repair work on the heat shields seems to have helped several things. The engine heat is down, based on feeling the air coming off the heads and the vapor lock problem seems to be gone, although hot weather will tell the final answer on that, and as I said, the hood is much cooler. The cooler engine may be mostly due to the carb rebuild. I still need to remove the heads and remove any carbon build up, but have to order head gaskets. I have done it the old way, re-using gaskets after cleaning and shoot them with aluminum paint. If you make sure you put the gaskets back exactly as they came off (don't swap to the opposite head!) it works, most of the time, but I'm not that broke at the moment.

Steering is MUCH easier since I rebushed the sector gear and steering column, added the PMPS, Tri-Rib tires, all new tie rod ends, and a steering knob. That helps keep from irritating that bad rotator cuff in my left shoulder!

I'm making a new repair list now for what I still need to do, but it is a LOT shorter than the old list.  :)


Edited by machinist, March 28, 2013 - 05:46 PM.

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#2 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 05:54 PM

My Things To Do list for this tractor:

- Fix the ammeter/charging circuit.

- Replace a lot of wiring, including getting headlights and tail lights working.

- Add the hydraulic system filter I bought for it.

- Clean, paint, and check out the oil cooler and replace all the hoses. 

- Change the hydraulic oil after the above is finished. 

- Make fender extensions to close the dangerous gap between fenders and footrests.   That's a great place to get your leg broken, if your foot slips off like mine did recently.

- Make improved lift links for the 3 point hitch, to stop the lift arms from twisting.

- Add the front bracket on the snap fast hitch so I can mount suitcase weights. 

 

This project has taken all winter, but I was also doing the same stuff to the 446 along with this one.   Had the 446 out today, too.   It is in very sound running order, but wants new paint on the body parts.   It also gets a hyd. filter and new cooler hoses.  I've been putting that off while I search for GOOD hose clamps.   Not easy to find. :wallbanging:


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 05:54 PM

Glad things are going as planned! Sounds like you did quite a few improvements!


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#4 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 06:00 PM

It sounds like you are coming right along! Glad you were able to try it out today and that everything went well!

 

Congrats on all the fixes so far and good luck on the new shorter list :thumbs:


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#5 tractorgarden OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 06:02 PM

Sounds like you are getting all the bugs worked out of her.


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#6 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 06:28 PM

Keep that list away from wife cause she might keep adding to it .


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#7 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 06:39 PM

Ammeter's don't show that it's working unless theirs a draw. On start up their is a large draw so that's why they show something happening but once the draw is over/replaced, they show little or nothing at all.

Many people will change them out to a volt meter, as it gives you a better "picture" of what's going on with-in the charging system.


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#8 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:40 PM

larryd,

My wife already has her OWN list, and it has stuff like, new kitchen flooring, new bathroom sink and cabinet, etc..   She's not allowed to look at MY lists. 

 

John,

True on the ammeter, but this was after it had been running for an hour.   The needle was jumping from 0 to 10 amps, stay there a few seconds and drop to 0 again.    Something's fishy in there.    It wasn't charging right for that hour, because the (new) battery only read 12. 2 volts after I shut if off.    Shoulda been 12.6 or so, I think.   Good quality DVM, too.

 

I'm thinking a corroded connection, or almost broken wire.


Edited by machinist, March 28, 2013 - 08:56 PM.


#9 marlboro180 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2013 - 04:39 PM

Seems like your list is getting shorter, and things are coming together nicely.  I thought I'd chime in on the hose clamp bit.  Look around for a " trunnion " hose clamp.  Much better than regular ones, IMHO.

 

trunnion-hose-clamp-14457-2518999.jpg


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#10 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2013 - 09:04 AM

Yes!   McMaster Carr lists those, but the clamping range is quite short.   I think I'll have a try at guessing the right size and get some.   They are FAR better than the worm drive kind. 

 

Ford cars used to have a similiar clamp on their radiator and heater hoses, but don't make it any more.   There are smaller ones around now, used on fuel injection hoses, but too small.    This kind was on my tractors originally, and can be re-used, but I need more to install the hydraulic filter in the oil cooler line. 



#11 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2013 - 03:21 PM

My daughter got some photos when I was trying out the tiller. That green stuff is winter wheat I planted as a cover crop, and cuts up very easily. The ground was too wet, and I expected too much out of the tiller, but it does work.
tiller1_zpse9153048.jpg

Did I mention that our lot is STEEP? That's why the gardens are terraced. Notice the high retaining wall of RR ties. That is guard dog #2, looking over the neighborhood to see if there is anything out there that needs chewed on.
tiller2_zps6de76464.jpg

She got a short video so you can see the action.


I desperately need one of those "creeper" flow control valves on this tractor so it can go slower. The clay soil is very heavy in this patch, making it difficult to work.

The front Tri-Rib tires did a great job even packed up with mud, and I only have 70 pounds of front weights on the tractor, just barely enough to counterbalance that heavy tiller. Waiting on a bracket to put 210 lbs. of suitcase weights on it that I made.

Edited by machinist, April 03, 2013 - 03:27 PM.


#12 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2013 - 07:01 PM

Machinist, I saw your thread about poor performance from this tiller.  I think I have the solution for you.  REVERSE the rotation of the tines!  I think you will be amazed.  Let us know what happens!


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#13 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2013 - 07:23 PM

I've done that, but it works best when the ground has just the right amount of moisture, and after you've been through it about 3 times already. Then, the last pass, just shift the valve to reverse and it will dig to China. You just can't go very fast with it then. The pictures above were just after the Spring thaw here, and it was pretty gooey out there. Our gardens drain well, so it shouldn't be too long.

That is a cover crop of winter wheat I was working in, and it cuts up easily. I just had unreasonable expectations from the tiller, after reading about them. It's doing what it was designed to do.
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