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#1 city slicker OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 09:01 PM

I have been looking at economy 1614 tractors and have finally found one I would like to purchase. It is an early 70's machine, One owner ,has  hydraulics , front and one bottom plow , 2 mower decks and 3 pt hitch. and chains. I mainly want to use it for my market garden so I dont think the 2nd transmission will be missed. I have read alot and studied the machines. However I am very green here!


 My question's  are .......


#1 The  tractor needs some attention to the brakes . They appear to be weeping fluid. Is this issue  difficult  to remedy? expensive?


#2  The PTO interlock switch in not functioning, How hard /costly to repair?  


Thank you all in advance!! 



#2 oldedeeres OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 09:47 PM

Hey, welcome on the block ! I'm a J.D. man myself, but I know there's lots of folks here who can help with your concerns. Have fun on the site.

#3 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 10:28 PM

Slick, can't help with your question but I will say; :welcometogttalk: Pretty sure it won't be long fore some economy guys chime in. Look around and stay awhile. May find some info in : http://gardentractor...r-king-economy/

#4 Ryan313 OFFLINE  


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Posted March 27, 2013 - 10:31 PM

Welcome to the site!

The final drives likely have to much fluid and is causing leakage at the brake shafts. Do a complete fluid change and see if it stops, you may have to replace the seal.

I looked for a PTO switch one time and it was about $20! There are four wires, two are white and can simply be spliced together. The other two you can put on a cheap toggle switch to turn on the PTO.

#5 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 10:33 PM

Welcome to GTT. One of the great things about GTs is most repairs are relatively easy. I say relatively because it depends on your experience and ability. If you have no mechanical experience then it may be a whole new and difficult problem for you to learn how to work on mechanical problems. If you are used to working on cars, these are delightfully easy. I'm not familiar with the brakes on a PK and am surprised that they may be hydraulic.


Explore the Manuals section and download the manuals for the PK. You can get 3 for free. Then, let us know how much you know about working on machines. Good Luck, Rick

#6 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 10:43 PM

:welcometogttalk: Welcome Slick! Glad you found us and decided to join! I haven't owned a PK yet but I know they are great machines. I see Ryan313 has already jumped in and pointed you in the right direction. He'll be able to help with your questions on these machines as he is one of our resident PK experts :D


Good luck :thumbs:

#7 city slicker OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 11:01 PM

Thanks guys all posts greatly appreciated!!

  • chris m said thank you

#8 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 11:02 PM

Welcome slick! Glad you could join us :wave: Ryan is pretty well know with powerkings so he knows what hes doing

#9 KennyP OFFLINE  



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Posted March 28, 2013 - 04:06 AM

Welcome to the Forum. Ryan can help you along with your issues, very well versed with these!

#10 crittersf1 OFFLINE  


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Posted March 28, 2013 - 04:22 AM

:welcome: :welcome:


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Posted March 28, 2013 - 04:24 AM

:welcometogttalk: , and :wewantpics:

#12 jd.rasentrac OFFLINE  


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Posted March 28, 2013 - 06:54 AM

:welcometogttalk:  , and :wewantpics:



Edited by jd.rasentrac, March 28, 2013 - 06:56 AM.

#13 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 07:22 AM

Welcome to the forum!  I'm not a Power King guy, but Ryan is.  You can trust him.


Ben W.

#14 glgrumpy ONLINE  


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Posted March 28, 2013 - 02:32 PM

Lot's of PK's have a leaking seal on the small shaft that comes out of gear case at top. the oil will also get on the bands and make them not work well.  You CAN get the seals out from outside if careful with a small drill to make a hole in it, and then poke a bent nail or awl or other type tool into it to pry it out. The shaft will stay and you'll have to work around that. Best to remove rear wheels to see better and even better to remove the fenders for more room to work. The brakes should have a big metal guard around them I believe for that year range, or if not, just the band is showing. There is push pins to drive out on the brake band ends to remove the linkage and band. That is the hardest part of whole job, getting out the push pins w/out more damage to shafts or parts, like bending from too much hitting with hammer and such. THEN, you will need to remove the drum in center that the band grabs. Usually a set screw/bolt holding that on. Watch out for a key in the shaft, it has to go back in when assembling. Will everything off you will see the shaft sticking out and the seal is back in the castings. Look at them with flashlight, and write down any numbers if you see any. That will help in finding new ones. Nicer to keep seal in some sort of shape so you can measure it once out also. Couple diff diameters were used. Use Brakleen spray on the bands many times to help get some oils out of them. Really best to replace the material, a brake shop should be able to do that for you. Lots of parts are available on ebay for PK, I would make habit of looking there. There are new and used on there. Your pto switch is usually on there, not cheap, but original. Find info about Larry Goss in IN, a PK Guru that sells thumb drives with all the info you would ever want on PK's for only Ten Bucks!  Get one of those. Think his address is in some of these listings if you do a search here.

#15 city slicker OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2013 - 09:04 PM



I got the tractor yesterday and off loaded it this afernoon. It was quite a trip back to NJ.  I  now remember why I stay out of NYC!!  I will post pics later. thank you all and I am very happy I found this site.!

  • chris m said thank you