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#16 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 07:48 PM

Ok, spent a lot more time today on this hitch.  I had planned to build the hitch up rather than try to bend it.  When I measured the old hitch, it came out to about .43 inches, thicker than the 3/8ths I thought it was.  So I'd already planned on doing some boxing in and reinforcing of whatever I built to make sure it was sturdy.  I hadn't been able to find any scrap, and at the end of last week, while I was running to get HVAC parts for someone, I realized the universe was telling me it was time to buy the steel I needed.  Why?  Because the only place that had the motor I needed was about 1 block away from the steel supplier that I otherwise don't go any where near.

     I bought 1/4 x 2 inch and decided to double the sides up, then box the rear in.  Here is how the day went:

First, I reamed out the 1/2 inch pipe.  This is black iron, the kind you run gas in, so no dangerous galvanizing fumes.

GEDC0025.JPG

 

Got the pipe reamed out so the pin fits.  Cut to length, ready to go:

GEDC0026.JPG

 Welding the top plate to the back plate.  I figured starting here would give me the best foundation to build it true.

GEDC0028.JPG

 

Here, the first layer of arms is welded up.

GEDC0029.JPG

 

Here is the nearly completed hitch:

GEDC0030.JPG

 

Here is the completed hitch hooked to the plow:

GEDC0032.JPG

 

I missed captioning the completed parts.  Here they are, ready to be fitted into place and welded.

Attached Thumbnails

  • GEDC0027.JPG

Edited by HowardsMF155, March 28, 2013 - 07:52 PM.


#17 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 07:55 PM

Looks like it came out pretty good!


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#18 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 07:57 PM

I did NOT attempt to duplicate the Massey hitch pattern.  I decided to build one shorter.  I have retained the distance between the lifting points and the pivot points, so it shouldn't affect overall movement, but I'm hoping that moving the implement a little closer to the tractor will make the plow easier to lift when its got weight on it.



#19 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:00 PM

I just looked at the pictures again, is that just a file chucked into the drill?



#20 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:06 PM

Looks like it came out pretty good!

Thanks Ryan.  Now that I'm done with it, I think if I had to do it again I'd have gone ahead and used heavier steel in the first place.  Doubling up the 1/4 inch just meant I had to drill all the holes twice, had to make all the cuts twice, and in addition I had to do extra beveling due to welding the two 1/4 arms together on each side.  I was just really concerned about being able to use the tools I had on 1/2 inch thick steel.

 

Plus, now I'm going to want to do extra grinding to smooth it down a bit more and make it prettier.  Well, live and learn.



#21 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:11 PM

Thanks Ryan.  Now that I'm done with it, I think if I had to do it again I'd have gone ahead and used heavier steel in the first place.  Doubling up the 1/4 inch just meant I had to drill all the holes twice, had to make all the cuts twice, and in addition I had to do extra beveling due to welding the two 1/4 arms together on each side.  I was just really concerned about being able to use the tools I had on 1/2 inch thick steel.

 

Plus, now I'm going to want to do extra grinding to smooth it down a bit more and make it prettier.  Well, live and learn.

 

Did you put a bevel on the edge weld where you joined the two 1/4" pieces of flat bar? If not, grinding the welds off will be like it was never welded at all, for the most part.



#22 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:13 PM

I just looked at the pictures again, is that just a file chucked into the drill?

  Probably a "reamer", I have several.



#23 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:15 PM

Did you put a bevel on the edge weld where you joined the two 1/4" pieces of flat bar? If not, grinding the welds off will be like it was never welded at all, for the most part.

Yes, I beveled every joint.



#24 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:19 PM

I just looked at the pictures again, is that just a file chucked into the drill?

LOL

Yes, it is.  Lowe's has a line of files with a hex end and a matching handle to fit.  They weren't any more expensive than the other kind, so I bought the file and a handle cause I'm tired of the other type trying to poke holes in my hands.  Got home with it, looked at it, said, "Ya know, it they made it to fit a sawzall, that would be great.  But I wonder if chucking it in the drill will work faster than by hand?"  So I did, and it did.


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#25 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:19 PM

  Probably a "reamer", I have several.

 Every reamer I have seen had larger cutting edges then that; I could be wrong, wouldn't the first time.



#26 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:21 PM

LOL

Yes, it is.  Lowe's has a line of files with a hex end and a matching handle to fit.  They weren't any more expensive than the other kind, so I bought the file and a handle cause I'm tired of the other type trying to poke holes in my hands.  Got home with it, looked at it, said, "Ya know, it they made it to fit a sawzall, that would be great.  But I wonder if chucking it in the drill will work faster than by hand?"  So I did, and it did.

 

When I first thought it might be a file, I thought, why did he put it in a drill, and not a reciprocating saw? Lol!



#27 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2013 - 05:23 AM

I have a 5/8" drill bit that fits a 1/2" chuck that I use to ream out the pipe to fit pins in. Works pretty good, as you aren't taking much material out.

Nice looking hitch!



#28 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 03:50 PM

Lookin good Howard. What have you got in mind, for the tensioning/adjusting bolts, on

either side of the pin?

 

I like your reamer..... :thumbs:



#29 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 08:21 PM

Will, I was going to put another 1/4 piece of steel there, drill two holes for retaining bolts with springs to keep everything tight against the hitch. Then another set of bolts to push the piece of steel away from the hitch to take up the slack and tighten against the implement.  However, due to a momentary lapse on my part as I was prepping the steel, I moved the hitch tube away from the back of the hitch, and I haven't seen if there will be enough slack to do that.  My spring break is over now and I didn't get nearly as much done as I wanted.  On the plus side, I finally have my father's garage completely cleaned out AND clean of all mouse droppings, sawdust, metal bits and cobwebs.  Now perhaps the real estate agent can capitalize on it as an added benefit to the house.  Need another full day down there though to clean up the winter's storm debris from all the pine trees.

 

At this point, if I can finish the lift lever-to-sleeve hitch link, I'll have a hitch that can be used for the plow day.  I'm also trying to find a way to reroute the exhaust on the re-powered Massey so the hood can be installed.  I have a good plan for that now, just need a day to do it.






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