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#31 pigsitter OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 08:34 AM

Here's the latest from our friend NJKen;

 

If you'd be so kind and u have time, please post this in my broken bolt thread. It's a new 3/8 bolt all tapped in.ken's bolt repair.jpg

 

 

 


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#32 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 08:42 AM

That's a shiny bolt, for sure!



#33 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 09:27 AM

That's a shiny bolt, for sure!


Lol yes it is. For photo purposes only. It's way to long.
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#34 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 12:18 PM

You are so fortunate to get that bugger out!  After breaking 2 EZ-outs, I quit using them completely.  

  Use a grade 8 bolt, or a 3/8 head bolt from another engine.



#35 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 12:45 PM

I have had good luck with welding broken studs/bolts and removing them after they cool. I always use the washer/nut combo and tap on the nut while it's still glowing hot with a hammer to help break loose the rust. The heat and tapping almost always gets the job done. I think there is a couple threads here showing this.

 

I also have never broke a screw/bolt extractor since I bought a set from Snap-On years ago. They are not cheap, but if you look at them you will see that they are a very different design. Here's a link to my set.

 

http://buy1.snapon.c...ore&dir=catalog

 

They also sell them in smaller sets and individually. Other tool Co. also sell this style extractor.

 

REX114A.jpg


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#36 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 08:13 PM

Those snap on ones are sure heavier then the ones I had. They were made in the US but not like those in your photo.

I'm waiting for the new head gasket, called a few places this am and no one close had one it stock.
Found one on eBay and the seller was less then 10 miles from me, but he does mail order only, no local pickup. I had to but it now, and he mailed it today. Hopefully since he's so close, I'll have it Monday. But u never know with USPS.

#37 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 05:52 PM

Reassembling everything, should be ready to fire up this evening. While waiting for the new head gasket, I replaced all the low pressure hoses. And I got hosed at Napa.

3/4" Silicone based hose pert near 15 bucks.a ft !!! eBay same hose 4 bucks a ft. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364251920.321371.jpg
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#38 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 08:41 PM

Good find with those hoses! $15 per foot is crazy!



#39 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 09:17 PM

Good find with those hoses! $15 per foot is crazy!



I found the hose on e-bay AFTER I bought the hose at napa.

She's up and running. But with a duct tape gas cap. I can't find it anywhere. I poked a few pin holes in it to breath.

Started 2nd pull as always.

And here's a tip for everyone. If you decide to paint your gas tank while its off. Don't use junk spay paint you have laying around. The crap I used (primed & coats) already started coming off when a little gas splashed on it. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364264193.058067.jpg

Say no to "Weekend spray paint"
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#40 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 09:20 PM

There was a thread recently (don't remember where) about painting gas tanks. People said to not use primer, as it is to soft and will come off when has is spilled on it.

#41 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 09:25 PM

Again I'll say, I always primer my tanks, but I spray over with acrylic automotive enamel.  NEVER had paint come off one yet.  It's more the paint than the primer.  I use cheap spray can primer mostly.  



#42 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2013 - 09:42 PM

Again I'll say, I always primer my tanks, but I spray over with acrylic automotive enamel. NEVER had paint come off one yet. It's more the paint than the primer. I use cheap spray can primer mostly.



I'll remember that next time. I hope to paint the entire splitter one of these days. The yellow paint is in poor shape. It was red from the factory, but the guy I bought it from was a big excavating contractor and every thing got painted yellow. That's what his son told me anyway. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364265618.857874.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364265639.072275.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364265662.908508.jpg

Tapatalk is much better for adding pictures !! Thanks for the tip George !!

#43 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 06:14 PM

Splitter ran well for 3 hours and not a drop of engine oil or hydraulic oil leaked.
Thanks for all the input on this. Another satisfied customer.

I pert near qualified to be a mocanick now : ) ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364339269.757520.jpg

Son is cleaning up the bark ASAP. I'm done splitting in this area.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364339332.203192.jpg

My pimped out trailer is getting dirty again !! I just cleaned it out this am.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364339407.070135.jpg

About 3/4's of a cord (all red oak) all ready for the covered wood storage area. And that will be tomorrow. My butt is kicked. My splitting buddy is coming over in the am, I hope to get two more trailer loads done. It's all big boys tomorrow while I have help. 3-5' red oak rounds. Between him and the loader, they go pretty easy. And lots of cordage cones out of them.

#44 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 06:34 PM

Thats awesome that she is up and running again! Sorry you had troubles with the Easy-out!!!

 

See for me I have been using them for so.... long that I am used to them and have never had a problem. Where I worked, 50% of my day consisted of removing broken off bolts and screws on production machines. And in most cases they were broken off in areas were welding a nut or even heating the area was not an option. Welding and the glue  (solvents) on the machines don't mix to well lol.

 

Glad you got it though! I know I love my K-181. :D






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