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#16 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 08:57 PM

On heads like this I have never had good results with welding a nut or soaking with oil, so ....... I always do this, works every time. Go buy a fresh set of drill bits, grind stud flush with head, center punch it, start with 1/8" bit, and keep drilling until one size smaller than stud is, by this time very little of stud is still in there, so I usually just run a tap and chase the threads, done. :thumbs:


Well John, looks like I should have read this before I attempted the "Easy Out" attempt.

But for my next trick, let's drill a 5/32 hole dead center, then attempt to use that brand new set of easy outs. So what's the trick you ask ? Getting the busted easy out. OUT.

I'm going to work or something else for a while, lets see what I can screw up next !! Lol I'm laughing, cause men don't cry. At least not in tractor forums. : )
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#17 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 09:02 PM

On heads like this I have never had good results with welding a nut or soaking with oil, so ....... I always do this, works every time. Go buy a fresh set of drill bits, grind stud flush with head, center punch it, start with 1/8" bit, and keep drilling until one size smaller than stud is, by this time very little of stud is still in there, so I usually just run a tap and chase the threads, done. :thumbs:

I've done this on the exhaust manifold of an old truck I had. Hard to get the exact center of the bolt. Took a little while, one drill step up at a time, stop when you can see treads. Use a pick to push the remains into the hole you created and turn out remnants. Unfortunately, I will be doing this again on another exhaust bolt in the near future. :wallbanging: 



#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 09:29 PM

I should have stressed one thing that I never even mentioned....NEVER use an EZ-out.  When they break, and they so often do, you are screwed!

  Actually, pro's know how to blow the EX-out from the hole with some fancy electronic gizmo, which other than what I've said, I have no idea how it works.



#19 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 09:51 PM

  And on reassembly, don't forget the antiseize.

                                    Mike



#20 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 10:21 PM

Well John, looks like I should have read this before I attempted the "Easy Out" attempt.

But for my next trick, let's drill a 5/32 hole dead center, then attempt to use that brand new set of easy outs. So what's the trick you ask ? Getting the busted easy out. OUT.

I'm going to work or something else for a while, lets see what I can screw up next !! Lol I'm laughing, cause men don't cry. At least not in tractor forums. : )

Some dental picks, a small chisel and a dermel tool, patience and a little luck. With the dermel tool dug into the stud around the e-z out, use chisel and picks to loosen until you can turn it out. Takes a little time, but in the long run quickest too. Sometimes depending on break you can cut a slot into e-z w/dermel and turn like a screw.

 

P.S.For the life of me I have never understood why they are called E-Z outs, good ones, cheap ones, doesn't matter have never worked for me.I always fall back to a drill, saw, or a torch :D



#21 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 11:03 PM

I got it !! Although now the one head bolt will be 3/8-16 rather then 5/16-18.

Buy the time I got it out, the hole was too buggered to leave 5/16".

Either I can enlarge the thur hole in the head, or I think I can get a heli coil ? Either way it's gonna be running as soon as I get a new head gasket.

It just so happened to be the same spot where the bolt broke is where the oil was leaking out.

Another question, should there be oil there is the first place ? The cylinder isn't scored at all and it had great compression as of today.

The head was LOADED with carbon, which I carefully cleaned of. It's bright and shiny now. And it's flat, checked it with my best combo square blade.

Like I said before, this engine has MANY many hours on it, and as far as I know nothing has been done to it since it was new in the early 70's. I'm the 2nd owner, and the 1st owner told me it had been trouble free.

I do have a 8 HP Wisconsin/Robin as a backup if ever needed. Hopefully this Kohler will out live me.

BTW, that set of easy outs I've had in my tool box for years, are in the trash. : )

Edited by NJKen, March 22, 2013 - 11:05 PM.

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#22 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 11:29 PM

While I'm attempting to fix the engine oil leak, I also pulled the hydraulic cylinder seal. It's old, brittle and scored. My quest to find a replacement for that shall begin now too.

Edit : this is the wiper # not the seal.

NOK 1 . 4 and Japan are what's written on it.

And since I'm at it, and have to wait for the gasket and seal, I'm going to fab up a log lift. And take it to the welder guy and have it assembled.

Edited by NJKen, March 23, 2013 - 12:25 AM.


#23 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 06:03 AM

Glad to hear you got it out.  I think easy outs are like liquid drain cleaners.  Looks and sounds good on TV but rarely works at home, still costs you money though.



#24 Guest_gravely-power_*

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 06:14 AM

I'm amazed you do not have a welder.



#25 pigsitter OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 06:29 AM

Glad to hear you got it out! Good luck at making the thread repair,if there's enough meat still left I think I'd opt for the oversize head bolt option.



#26 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 06:32 AM

Glad to hear you got both broken bolt & easy-out removed .  I never had good luck using easy-outs on anything rusted in place . But I do like using the guide bushing on this type of set ,  on something like yours you would grind the stud flush  , bolt the head back on , slip a bushing into the spot in the head with the broken bolt to keep the drill centered  , that way you have a pilot hole if you wanted to keep drilling until you could just chase it .  If the bolt was broken from stress then I MIGHT try using the pieces in the easy-out kit but this type drives in straight and are PIA  if you can't unscrew the broken bolt   , even when it does come out most of the times I'll just cut the easy-out  off as close as possible  rather then spend the time trying to remove it.

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#27 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 06:57 AM

I'm amazed you do not have a welder.


Ron, me too. I've done just about anything there is in the construction field, welding is not one of them. I can honestly say, the only thing I've ever welded were a company's stool pigeons tools to his welding table while he was at lunch. Lol and had someone help me who knew how to weld.

It's on my list of things to do, I'm going to buy one and learn ASAP.

#28 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 07:16 AM

I'm amazed you do not have a welder.

His wife doesn't trust him around that much electricity!! :anvil_drop: 

 

Easy outs on exhaust bolts almost ALWAYS break!  Those suckers are hunkered in the crankcase due the high heat & stress of the exhaust area..  As far as drilling it out larger be careful as there isn't a lot of metal there on a cast block to begin with.  You are lucky it's a smaller bore as there is a bit more beef in the valve area.  

 

As far as the oil goes, there's 2 ways for it to get in there..  

 

1-  Faulty crankcase breather blowing oil into the air cleaner through the vent tube 

 

2-  Rings letting a little oil by..



#29 Guest_gravely-power_*

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 07:30 AM

Ron, me too. I've done just about anything there is in the construction field, welding is not one of them. I can honestly say, the only thing I've ever welded were a company's stool pigeons tools to his welding table while he was at lunch. Lol and had someone help me who knew how to weld.

It's on my list of things to do, I'm going to buy one and learn ASAP.

I will be checking back on that. :thumbs:



#30 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 07:57 AM

  Helicoil ??

                                   Mike






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