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Log Splitter Down.


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#1 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 05:19 PM

I've had a slight motor oil leak for a while now, and since I was going to relocate the splitter today, I moved it in the garage and looked into the leak.

It appeared to be coming from the head gasket, And I believe that's the case.

One stud broke when removing the head. Look like it was leaking to you ?

Kohler K-181 8 HP. This engine owes me nothing. It has MANY hours on it, and just keeps going. Until I just took it apart.

Tips for removing the broken stud ? Besides the the obvious. Soak it with PB Blaster.

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#2 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 05:30 PM

I bet that engine will run even better for you when you put it back together.

 

As far as the bolt, You will need to prick punch it in the center, drill it with a small bit then drill it with bigger bit so you can put an easy out in it. If it were mine I would soak it with PB then heat it up with a torch before trying the easy out.

 

If it won't come out with the easy out, I would drill it with a 5/16 drill (on center) then run a 3/8-16 tap in the hole to clean the threads out. If you go this route make sure you use thread cutting oil on the tap.

 

Make sure you resurface that head before putting it back on, more than likely it is a little warped. All 3 of my Kohler's I found the head was warped (K181,K241,K301)

 

Good luck :thumbs:


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#3 Guest_gravely-power_*

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 06:12 PM

Ken, I have used this method with great success.

 

http://bbs.homeshopm...-welding-on-nut


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#4 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 06:58 PM

Center punch the broken stud, and soak it with penetrating oil and then leave it alone, soak it again and again, then use a Left Hand drill bit to drill the broken stud.

You will run your drill in reverse and if you are lucky, the bit will grab and back the broken stud right out of the block. If it doesn't grab, you needed a hole for an easy out anyway!


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#5 pigsitter OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:10 PM

If there's any thing left to grab I suggest some good vise grips after it soaks,some heat would also be a plus.

 

Going by the pics I'd say that gasket was toast! good luck! :thumbs:


Edited by pigsitter, March 22, 2013 - 07:11 PM.


#6 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:13 PM

I would try welding a nut on, like said. I have never done it on a head but have done it with great success on other things.

#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:14 PM

Heard great stuff about laying a nut over what's left, then wire welding the nut to the bolt remnants.  Then soak with PB Blaster, Kroil, or other good penetrant a while.  Then heat the block around the bolt fairly hot, then try turning it out.  

 

Edited to add:  Ryan posted while I was typing!  If welding on a nut doesn't work & it breaks off again, then go with what Chris said, but I think this engine uses 5/16 bolts, so you'd use a 7/32 drill, then a 5/16 tap to clear the threads.  If you drill, I prefer drilling a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit, then switch to the larger.


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#8 NJKen ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:21 PM

I'm a welder less kinda guy. Sadly.

If I hook a # 10 wire to the line side of the meter socket, think that will work ? Lol
The main or branch breaker won't trip that way.

Yes, I'm kidding.

I'm going to let it soak overnight and try in the am.

#9 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:25 PM

Heard great stuff about laying a nut over what's left, then wire welding the nut to the bolt remnants.  Then soak with PB Blaster, Kroil, or other good penetrant a while.  Then heat the block around the bolt fairly hot, then try turning it out.  

 

Edited to add:  Ryan posted while I was typing!  If welding on a nut doesn't work & it breaks off again, then go with what Chris said, but I think this engine uses 5/16 bolts, so you'd use a 7/32 drill, then a 5/16 tap to clear the threads.  If you drill, I prefer drilling a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit, then switch to the larger.

I meant to check for sure. I kept thinking they were 3/8-16



#10 wilberj OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:28 PM

I'm a welder less kinda guy. Sadly.

If I hook a # 10 wire to the line side of the meter socket, think that will work ? Lol
The main or branch breaker won't trip that way.


Yes, I'm kidding.

I'm going to let it soak overnight and try in the am.

 

 

Let me know when you are about to do it so I can look out the door and see the light...... :firejumper:



#11 pigsitter ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:29 PM


If I hook a # 10 wire to the line side of the meter socket, think that will work ? Lol
The main or branch breaker won't trip that way.
 

 we don't call you sparky for nothing! I can see it now mysterious black out hits the east coast!! :rolling:


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#12 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:32 PM

I'm a welder less kinda guy. Sadly.

If I hook a # 10 wire to the line side of the meter socket, think that will work ? Lol
The main or branch breaker won't trip that way.

Yes, I'm kidding.

I'm going to let it soak overnight and try in the am.

 

Or if you have a couple of automobiles handy, you could try this:

Might be a little easier on the local utility :))



#13 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:44 PM

Firmly tapping the top of the broken bolt with a small hammer 20 times or so goes a long way to break the rust bond & allow the penetrant in.  Keep it wet with fluid as you tap on it.   



#14 John@Reliable ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:55 PM

On heads like this I have never had good results with welding a nut or soaking with oil, so ....... I always do this, works every time. Go buy a fresh set of drill bits, grind stud flush with head, center punch it, start with 1/8" bit, and keep drilling until one size smaller than stud is, by this time very little of stud is still in there, so I usually just run a tap and chase the threads, done. :thumbs: 



#15 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 08:50 PM

I've had very good success using an "air engraver" to remove these types of problems.






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