Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Potential Deal But Have Questions


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 drivadesl OFFLINE  

drivadesl
  • Member
  • Member No: 16725
  • 0 Thanks
  • 9 posts
  • Location: Hudson Valley NY

Posted March 20, 2013 - 06:43 PM

So I've been keeping my eyes open for a machine.  Still debating whether to pull the trigger or not,  But may look at a 1972 1614 this weekend.  Spoke to the seller, seemed pretty honest and gave my all he knew on the history of the it.  He made a point to mention the rear brakes are leaking fluid possibly at a seal, and may need to be looked at.  I'm not familiar with these type brakes  and his explaination was not to clear so I'm not sure if this is a big concern to deal with.  Can anyone explain what type  brakes are in these power kings and how they work?

 

Second item of note was the engine was sleeved in 2003, along with new rings.  Says it starts immediately, blows no smoke, nor doesn't burn any oil.  Thats a plus, I'm just not sure what the implications are that the engine was sleeved.  Would it be possible to sleeve it again if it becomes worn or burns oil in the future? 

 

He noted that he used it to pull down small trees when he was fixing up his lawn.  I didn't ask how large the trees were, but that seems a bit much for a small machine as this.  I dint get the impression it was something he did all the time, was just giving an example of what its capabilities are.

 

So mechanically it seems pretty good by his description and he said he would send photos.  His price is in a good range and seems fair for my area so will look at it this weekend unless anyone has comments to the mechanical items I mentioned. 

 

Thanks for any input.



#2 boyscout862 ONLINE  

boyscout862
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8923
  • 9,770 Thanks
  • 7,537 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted March 20, 2013 - 07:10 PM

You can check out the manuals in the Manuals section. You can download and read about the GT.



#3 LTD OFFLINE  

LTD

    Cub Cadet Collector

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5951
  • 1,028 Thanks
  • 1,455 posts
  • Location: Earlville N.Y.

Posted March 20, 2013 - 07:31 PM

Second item of note was the engine was sleeved in 2003, along with new rings.  Says it starts immediately, blows no smoke, nor doesn't burn any oil.  Thats a plus, I'm just not sure what the implications are that the engine was sleeved.  Would it be possible to sleeve it again if it becomes worn or burns oil in the future? 

 

Yep. You could sleeve it again without a problem. It is actually a lot better than not being sleeved. If it was rebuilt correctly it should last a long time yet.



#4 sep OFFLINE  

sep
  • Member
  • Member No: 25080
  • 60 Thanks
  • 65 posts
  • Location: CT/RI

Posted March 20, 2013 - 07:40 PM

I'm not the expert here but i don't remember having any kind of fluid changes having to do with the brakes on my 71. i think they are mechanical with brake bands hooked to the rods that lead to the brake pedals. The leak may be from the bull gears but you will have to look close to see for sure. I have never pushed mine such as to pull a tree over but some folks have said that the PK is so strong that it will pull until it flips over so I wouldn't worry about it being over worked. If you want to send me a PM, I'd like to know the price. I promise not to drive thru CT and into NY to steal it from under you!! LOL!



#5 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

Ryan313

    PK Fanatic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7087
  • 3,239 Thanks
  • 5,159 posts
  • Location: Wallkill, NY

Posted March 20, 2013 - 08:08 PM

The brakes are external; there is a shaft that sticks out of each final drive with a drum on it that the brake band grabs onto. The final drives likely have WAY more fluid in them then it is supposed to have; if you do a complete fluid change and put the correct amount of fluid, there is a good chance it will stop leaking.

As for pulling trees, I believe it. They are VERY strong tractors and will loose traction way before you loose power.

If you go to look at it, check the steering wheel and column for movement, the front wheel bearings, the transmission bearings (it will growl prefusely when moving if they are bad) and the normal things to check when buying a tractor.

#6 Username OFFLINE  

Username

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2568
  • 2,065 Thanks
  • 1,425 posts
  • Location: Punxsutawney,Pa

Posted March 20, 2013 - 08:43 PM

Theoretical maximum low gear pull listed for a 1624 is 8205 lbs.



#7 drivadesl OFFLINE  

drivadesl
  • Member
  • Member No: 16725
  • 0 Thanks
  • 9 posts
  • Location: Hudson Valley NY

Posted March 21, 2013 - 05:01 PM

Thanks for the replies, so not discounting this one yet.  Ryan, how big a deal is it if there is play in the front wheel bearings?  If theres movement in the collumn should I run away?  A pricey repair?

 

A related question, was the 3 point hitch available on all years of the Economy and can it be added after the fact if it doesn't come with one.? 

 

And how do you folks like driving these tractors with the offset steering wheels?  Does it take some getting used to?  Suppose it can't be to bad, otherwise you wouldn't be driving one.

 

Thanks.



#8 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

Ryan313

    PK Fanatic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7087
  • 3,239 Thanks
  • 5,159 posts
  • Location: Wallkill, NY

Posted March 21, 2013 - 05:48 PM

Not many people worry much about the front wheel bearings... But it is something I tend to stress. I have not had to replace the bearings in any of mine, but I would say it is $30-40 to replace all hub bearings, races and the thrust bearings.

If the steering column moves in the box, that is very bad. If it is a little movement, you can make a brace (I recomend one anyway), if it is bad then you have to replace the box, which is not cheap.. If the steering wheel moves it is bad, but can USUALLY be fixed with no or little cost.

Not all had a 3 point, in '72 it was still an option. To add one, you have to drill two holes in the frame and weld 2 pieces to the underside of the frame.

You will get used to the offset steering wheel fast. However, it might take time to get used to the clutch; they have a very short draw and if you are not used to it, you will have a tough time getting a smooth start. Like anything else, you will get used to the clutch eventually.

#9 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

glgrumpy

    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 6,660 Thanks
  • 6,474 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted March 22, 2013 - 07:04 AM

Not all have 3pts. Many had a lift hitch tho, more like a moving draw bar that lifted up/down with the manual or hydraulics lift, depending on which you had. I'm willing to bet that year has the drawbar lift hitch. Late 70;s and early 80's have 3pts more often and the 80's are the best years with cylinder under frame and out of way. Steering columns are many times loose at the steer box casting from pulling on them to get on tractor. If not all broken out casting on case, they can sometimes be Glued in or epoxied, but best to brace to dash or bellhousing after that. Ebay has parts of PK's all the time, about anything you would need. Trans that locks into one gear, usually 2nd is common and easy fix. Noisy trans, is common, again can tear down and put in bearings, usually fix's that. That leak at brake shaft is common. Seal is on outside and can be worked out and new put in. The rear-end grease or from bull gears gets splashed there and seeps out. Oil on the brake bands tho, makes them not work well. They can be cleaned sometimes or replace the band material to function like new again. Many different types of brake actions on PK's over years, each time better than the previous system.






Top