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Going To Build A 3ph For My 1650


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39 replies to this topic

#31 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2013 - 07:38 PM

I think it'll work!



#32 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 07:27 PM

This whole set up sucks. The rock shaft has a lot of play so that will need to be changed. I dont have a much travel as I'd like. I think If I move the chains closer to the tractor on the bottom arms I'll get the travel I want. Here are some up/down pictures. I knew the arms would stick out but they arnt as long as I'd thought they would be.

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#33 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 07:42 PM

I think you need to make the upper arms longer by at least about 3".  This will allow more travel at the chain attachment point, giving you more lift & drop.  I think that ideally, you want the upper link arms & lower lift arms to stay parallel, which requires the upper arm "hole to hole" to be equal the the lower arm attachment hole to point of chain attachment.  This keeps the leverage ratio equal through the whole range of lift.  Then you set the entire lift/lower range by the length of the arm on the rock shaft that attaches to the lift rod.

 Just needs some tweaking David, so don't get discouraged.  Don't think for a second that any of nail things on our first attempts......rarely ever happens!


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#34 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 06:43 AM

I'd rather move the lift chains down on the arms instead I'd making the rock shaft arms longer. I wonder if the lower arms are hardened? I wonder if its going to be dry enough to plow after work? Ok not getting discouraged, I've come along way.

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#35 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 11:01 AM

A little crooked in a few places doesn't matter as long as it works.   :thumbs:

ats right!!!

 

 

I think it'll work fine. If you can move the chains in closer on the lower arms it'll give you more movement but less lifting power. My kubota's arms have two locations to connect the lifting links to the lower arms. All I have to do is pull a pin and change holes to change from higher lifting to heavier lifting!

 

What is the movement range right now?


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#36 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 11:04 AM

Based on the up and down pic's you posted it looks like you need to shorten the lift rod (the one that connects to the deck lift. In the up position it looks like the upper arms could still travel quite a bit. And in the down position they are pointing to far down.



#37 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 10:55 PM

Stupid tractor. This rock shaft is total crap. I hooked the plow up and totally messed up the garden. The plow needs to go about 4" to the right. Why is the tractor stupid? Because I now have a hole somewhere in the tank so I've got to pull that and see what I can do with it. It was nice for the 15 min seat time.

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#38 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2013 - 06:09 AM

Stupid tractor. This rock shaft is total crap. I hooked the plow up and totally messed up the garden. The plow needs to go about 4" to the right. Why is the tractor stupid? Because I now have a hole somewhere in the tank so I've got to pull that and see what I can do with it. It was nice for the 15 min seat time.

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Ouch!  Did the rockshaft somehow puncture the tank, or was it already a leak and you hadn't noticed it?  Also, if it wasn't recently punctured and only leaked when you were running full-out, it could be an issue with your gas cap.



#39 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2013 - 06:20 AM

I know the leak wasn't there a few weeks ago when I parked her. I noticed adv existing hole that had been patched. Maybe that's the issue

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#40 LTD OFFLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2013 - 08:22 AM

That sucks. I will have to drive up and take her off your hands. :rolling:   If your tank turns out to be shot, you should be able to find a another one without too much trouble.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c6d993945






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