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My 1968 John Deere 110


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#631 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted August 06, 2016 - 10:20 PM

It seems that wiring problems are cropping up on these older machines right now.  If funds allow, i would replace the entire harness and be done with it.  (and put the original in a box on the shelf)  I know hapcoparts.com sells your harness but not sure if it is in stock. Almost ordered one for my '68 then picked up a 318.  :bigrofl:


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#632 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted August 22, 2016 - 07:59 PM

Update:

 

Finally got time to work on the Machine  Ordered and received the mower engagement bolt from the JD junk yard, removed battery and tray and installed.

 

Still wont crank, charged and checked battery its good at 12.6 volts, I dont know if my new rebuilt starter went bad or if Im not getting power? Before this problem the engine would not shut off once running

 

Last time this happened it was the starter, I put volt meter to started power wire "No Power" with key on

 

Im going to read out the Solenoid first to see if Im gettting power from the switch (Maybe bad Solenoid)

 

Then Im going to try to jump the starter, the last time this happened it was the starter

 

I think this part will work: http://www.ebay.com/...MsAAOSwbsBXoQmB looks a little shorter than mine

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Edited by Navy Chief, August 23, 2016 - 09:53 AM.


#633 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted August 27, 2016 - 09:15 PM

Put multi meter on starter solenoid, not getting any power with key on out of the back side to starter, is the wire from the ignition suppose to show any power? shows like 2



#634 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted August 28, 2016 - 07:22 AM

Let me get the wiring info from the service manual for you.  I have not messed with the '68 since my 312 project has snowballed and I picked up a 318.  :hitting_self_roller:


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#635 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2016 - 11:28 AM

Ive tried to upload the pic several times this morning and the internet at the church is slow.  Giving a try at home later.


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#636 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted August 29, 2016 - 04:08 PM

Here ya go

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#637 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted August 30, 2016 - 09:20 AM

Lyall made me a new wiring harness, I was saving it for worse days, I think Im at that point now and will install the new harness., going thru too many ignition switches

 

THX for the diagrams Rev


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#638 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 01, 2016 - 04:14 PM

Ordered new JD Switch going to try that again



#639 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2016 - 06:25 PM

Sent PM to Travis and Lyall for help
 
I changed the switch RCCM by John Deere "NO JOY" Took battery and battery pan out found a couple of wires with shielding missing in spots, repaired, found one wire at ignition switch broke repaired (I might have did that replacing the switch), put it all back together still wont crank???? Is it possible the newly rebuilt starter went bad? IS there any way that I can check it? I tried to read it out shows zero volts going to it.
 
I'm disappointed


#640 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2016 - 07:29 PM

have you checked the neutral safety and the pto switches?

the power from the switch goes to the pto switch then to the neutral safety switch then the solenoid then power goes the starter.

 

to check a starter the can check it from the battery.  the ground from the battery goes to the motor and with a battery cable just quickly touch the cable to the starter post.  Be careful!!!!

How I check the solenoids is first remove it.  Then I shake it real hard to see if I can fill the center part of the solenoid moves.

If I fill the center move I think the solenoid is good.  I can take it to a auto parts stove and they should be able to check it,

 

if the neutral safety and/or  pto switches are bad I can send you a couple of them.

I buy 20 at a time for around for $10.  I get the three pong ones and put heat shrink on one the of pongs.

They are for refrigerators, but they work great on garden tractors.

 

PM me if you need them


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#641 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2016 - 09:17 PM

lyall makes a good call on the safety switches.  


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#642 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2016 - 10:01 AM

Grandpa removed the PTO switches and hot wired the harness together to close the loops it was working for all his years and my 2 years, dont know if I need them except for safety

 

I took the hot wire from the positive post to the starter post, all it does is ark does not spin, I turned the key to ON, then ran another wire from the Positive post to the starter post, Was that the right way to do it??for the test

 

 

 

I guess the new rebuilt starter went bad, its possible with this machine.

 

Thanks all

 

I think Im going to install Lyalls new harness he made me, due to all this weird issues

 

It was working fine, but then it wouldnt shut down, then it wouldnt start


Edited by Navy Chief, October 20, 2016 - 10:03 AM.


#643 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2016 - 04:13 PM

Im going to have the battery checked again for cranking and load power, before I proceed



#644 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2016 - 07:09 PM

Read out battery was 12:30 volts with no load, turned key on Volt dropped to 10:30



#645 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2016 - 09:18 PM

Have you had anyone run a "load" test on it?  Sounds like there is a dead cell in it.  I had that happen with the RF 110 and it would not crank the starter/generator because the voltage was too low.  


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