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My 1968 John Deere 110


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#526 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 25, 2014 - 07:06 PM

Received my New Used Starter today from Ebay, the Bendix looked great, I removed the Bendix Spring Sleeeves and parts and installed on mine, installed starter cranked up and BAM, she works like a camp no more humming and winning.

 

I now have an extra good starter with no Bendix.

 

Next project ignition wont shut off



#527 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 02:28 PM

glad you the got the starter  and got it working

 

have fun with the wiring - hope you got a good meter to check the wiring - it will help



#528 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 04:27 PM

Lyall and Travis I was thinking that the switch that I ordered was per the John Deere  manual for the 1968 8HP Koehler Engine, but I remembered that my Koehler originally had the Magneto system not the coil ignition system, the Manual does show a switch for the 1970 10HP engine with the coil ignition system. COULD THIS BE THE ISSUE? switch not compatible?  Should I order the one for the 1970 model?

 

What say you guys



#529 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 04:51 PM

Ok... let me think this through with you...

I thought all 68 110s had the Kohler with the magneto system and you were working to restore to factory configuration.  That being said I would say that your 110 and mine would take the same switch.  JDParts.com shows this as the proper switch for both tractors:

 

 

AM102543 SWITCH 1   - 130000 IGNITION (4 TERMINAL) (SUB FOR AM30771)

 

For tractors 130000 and above (does not stipulate engine or model year) it is:

 

 

AM31995 SWITCH 1 130001 -   IGNITION (BRONZE) (5 TERMINAL)

 

That being said, I would say the switch is incorrect.
 

There are changes in the part numbers on the tractors above 250,000 too.  

 

A quick interwebz search shows that AM102543 is the same switch used on the magneto 140 and this link might be helpful with your troubleshooting.  http://www.yesterday...ges/143341.html says:

 

A 140 of that serial number should have magneto ignition, and there should be no connection between the 12 Volt electrical system and the ignition system, except a wire from the points to the ignition switch, that gets shorted to ground when the switch is turned off, to "kill" the spark, and thus the engine.  Either you have this "kill" wire connected to the wrong post on the ignition switch, or you have the wrong ignition switch (one designed for a LATER tractor with 12 Volt powered ignition). The other possibility is that a burned "hot" 12 Volt wire in the harness is shorted to the ignition "kill" wire. If 12 Volts is being applied to the points, and to the magneto coil, the magneto coil is almost certainly "toast".

The CORRECT part number for the ignition switch on a 140 below S.N. 10,001 is AM102543. All the 140's prior to this serial number were originally magneto-ignition equipped.

Since these engines are magneto ignition, if the coil, points, and condensor are good, it should run for testing purposes with NO electrical connections to the tractor chassis. Of course, it wouldn't stop with the key, though!

I have a shop manual for these tractors, and, if memory serves, the info you need IS in there. I'll look tomorrow.

 

Me thinks a bit of wiring harness checking/repair and a new switch are in order to eliminate your electrical demons.  Here is a WFM thread outlining similar problems with a 112 with the solid state ignition.  It takes the same switch and harness.  IF the harness is NLA from Deere then your only choice is to troubleshoot each section and repair as necessary since I cannot find a new one with a part number search and Hapcoparts does not sell them. This is good for me to know with my 110.  


Edited by Trav1s, March 27, 2014 - 01:29 PM.

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#530 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 06:15 PM

Ok, I lost the formatting on the 3rd quote... I will try to fix it.



#531 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 07:54 PM

I didn't change it back to the Magneto, the wires are all there, but it has a coil installed with a coil wire etc. The reason I asked about the switch was the Deere Junk yard guy told me if you use the wrong switch it will burn it up.

 

I was reading that post  that you put on there: 

Since these engines are magneto ignition, if the coil, points, and condensor are good, it should run for testing purposes with NO electrical connections to the tractor chassis. Of course, it wouldn't stop with the key, though!

 

 

Isnt that what mine does starts and runs but wont shut off? and it has coil, condenser and points as stated above.

 

 

 

I might re wire it as you and lyall stated and order another new switch

 

Man it sure does mow nice and level now, Grandpa must not have worried about level or didn't know how cause it cut real low on one side and was way out of adjustment


Edited by Spain, March 26, 2014 - 08:03 PM.

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#532 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2014 - 08:09 PM

Ok, I forgot you kept the external coil.  (I am going to go magneto.)  If I were in your shoes I would build a harness from scratch based on the later external coil schematic and call it a day.  It cannot be do difficult to do.


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#533 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2014 - 12:01 PM

Here is the electrical system parts info from JDParts for 110's Serial #100,000 - 250,000 tossed into an excel sheet and attached as a PDF and excel format.

Attached Files


Edited by Trav1s, March 27, 2014 - 01:31 PM.

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#534 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2014 - 07:44 PM

How goes it?



#535 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 08:44 PM

Just got back from on the road, haven't ran it in like 2 months, started right up WOW, mowed, still wont shut off, I ordering the new switch now to try that first.

 

Lyall if the switch don't work I can buy a used wiring harness and send it to you for rebuild, how much would that run me?



#536 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted April 21, 2014 - 11:27 PM

Spain

if you do not mind which wire color ( but it will be labeled) I will to keep it under $10 plus shipping

I will put new ends on except for the fuse connector and might be be the amp too (if needed),  which I can reuse,

they will be soldered and covered with heat shrink tubing.

 

if you can find a copy of the wiring that matches your that would help a lot

you can print in out and make any changes to it - so that it matches your

if you can scan it and send it, if not you can mail it to me

 

I have a few old wiring harness , so I do not think you need to buy a used one


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#537 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted April 22, 2014 - 08:25 PM

Lyall its a deal, I will add to the drawing how mine is wired up.


Edited by Spain, April 22, 2014 - 08:27 PM.


#538 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2014 - 08:27 PM

Installed new JD switch today GREAT NEWS it now shuts off, Success Thanks all

 

Travis if you decide to do yours with the coil system I will draw you how JD wired up the ignition system on the 110



#539 lyall ONLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2014 - 10:09 PM

Spain

do you still want me to make you a new wiring harness?

I got 6 new rolls of 100' - 16 gauge colored wires and some new connectors



#540 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted May 02, 2014 - 10:17 PM

Nice JD 110! You've done a very nice job!
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