Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
* * * * * 1 votes

My 1968 John Deere 110


  • Please log in to reply
652 replies to this topic

#451 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

Navy Chief
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30322
  • 152 Thanks
  • 407 posts
  • Location: Houston, Tx

Posted December 18, 2013 - 10:47 PM

Finished putting motor parts back together , It started up first time YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA, ran great, engine is running smoother now and the breather don't leak oil, nor does the throttle lever and the oil stick doesn't jump. SUCCESS!

 

Ran so great I drove it around, really nice. When I was in Oklahoma a week ago I bought 2 can gas cans full of their gas it does not have ethanol and Texas gas does, the deere ran better and it doesn't putt now.

 

Wiring is now good starts and shuts off great!

 

Now I have to drain the transmission and add new gear oil, I have some little things to do, tightened the front rim nut, grease front end, install hood and flanges. Sharpen mower blades install those and mower deck.


  • lyall, Trav1s and SupplySergeant have said thanks

#452 Trav1s ONLINE  

Trav1s

    Got points?

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 2,602 Thanks
  • 3,750 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted December 18, 2013 - 11:07 PM

Congrats!  Glad to hear you are getting this hammered out. 


  • Navy Chief said thank you

#453 lyall OFFLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,746 Thanks
  • 1,397 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted December 19, 2013 - 01:48 PM

Glad you got it running - good job

 

looking back at all the headaches you had with it

you should be proud of youself

you stayed with and now you got a good garden tractor 

 

what is next?



#454 Trav1s ONLINE  

Trav1s

    Got points?

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 5472
  • 2,602 Thanks
  • 3,750 posts
  • Location: Cedar Rapids, IA

Posted December 19, 2013 - 02:08 PM

Glad you got it running - good job

 

looking back at all the headaches you had with it

you should be proud of youself

you stayed with and now you got a good garden tractor 

 

what is next?

 

Another tractor... can I suggest a 140?  :smilewink:


  • lyall and Navy Chief have said thanks

#455 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

Navy Chief
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30322
  • 152 Thanks
  • 407 posts
  • Location: Houston, Tx

Posted December 19, 2013 - 10:29 PM

I have to fix some loose ends and sharpened the blades and run the mower deck. I still have that right rear axle seepage, Im changing the gear fluid, I hope it goes away. If not I need a diagram of how to break it apart and a new seal.

 

Appreciate everyone's help

 

The other day while in the small town in Oklahoma near Grandpas ranch, I noticed a JD like 110 or 120 tore down in a Guys yard, I was going to stop and ask him if hes selling it Im good at it now. Maybe next time Im up there Ill ask him



#456 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

Navy Chief
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30322
  • 152 Thanks
  • 407 posts
  • Location: Houston, Tx

Posted December 20, 2013 - 09:01 PM

Anyone have the diagram of how to pull apart the rear axle and change the seal by the tire, I drained the oil, if its not too complicated I should change that seal.

 

I see a snap ring on the outside hub, if you remove the snap ring does that outside hub come off?

 

THX



#457 lyall OFFLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,746 Thanks
  • 1,397 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted December 20, 2013 - 11:01 PM

Spain

in the manual section there is a manual for the Tecumseh/Peerless 2300 Transmission repair manual

 

http://gardentractor...mission-repair/

 

first you need to remove the transaxle form the tractor. then remove the rear hitch .

with the tires still on the transaxle - remove the tire that has the bad seal is on,  flip it up on the other tire, so that the transaxle it vertical.  

remove the snap ring.  

remove the hub. be careful removing the hub.  

remove the axle tube.

 

 

Screenshot.png

 

replace the seal and the o-ring

 

also check the bearing before putting the axle tube back on

now is the time to replace it if it is bad


Edited by lyall, December 20, 2013 - 11:03 PM.

  • Navy Chief said thank you

#458 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

Navy Chief
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30322
  • 152 Thanks
  • 407 posts
  • Location: Houston, Tx

Posted December 21, 2013 - 04:04 PM

Spain

in the manual section there is a manual for the Tecumseh/Peerless 2300 Transmission repair manual

 

http://gardentractor...mission-repair/

 

first you need to remove the transaxle form the tractor. then remove the rear hitch .

with the tires still on the transaxle - remove the tire that has the bad seal is on,  flip it up on the other tire, so that the transaxle it vertical.  

remove the snap ring.  

remove the hub. be careful removing the hub.  

remove the axle tube.

 

 

attachicon.gifScreenshot.png

 

replace the seal and the o-ring

 

also check the bearing before putting the axle tube back on

now is the time to replace it if it is bad

Do I have to split the transmission to pull the shaft out of there to change this oil seal? I hope not. Also any one have the part number for this oil seal and O ring? Or do I just take the bolts off that outer axle shaft Hub?

Im wondering if I should service it up and run it awhile the old oil was nasty and had some sludge and what looked like DIRT, No Metal.


Edited by Spain, December 21, 2013 - 04:33 PM.


#459 lyall OFFLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,746 Thanks
  • 1,397 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted December 21, 2013 - 04:19 PM

Spain 

you can put 85w-140 oil in the transaxle and try it for now

the heaver oil might slow or stop the leak for now

since you are in the south and you should get below 0 degrees the heaver oil will help and make the transaxle quieter.

 

see the PM I sent you about the seal and o-ring

 

Glen


  • Navy Chief said thank you

#460 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

Navy Chief
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30322
  • 152 Thanks
  • 407 posts
  • Location: Houston, Tx

Posted December 21, 2013 - 04:43 PM

Thx Glen just read your PM and post thanks for helping me. Don't know if this is the correct seal needed?http://www.ebay.com/...=item3a7eff31f1

Attached Thumbnails

  • transaxle%202%20001.jpg

Edited by Spain, December 21, 2013 - 04:51 PM.


#461 lyall OFFLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,746 Thanks
  • 1,397 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted December 21, 2013 - 04:48 PM

Spain

is this your transaxle?

if so just remove the 4 bolts the hold the tube to the case

then slide off the tube off the axle

the axle will not come out


  • Navy Chief said thank you

#462 lyall OFFLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,746 Thanks
  • 1,397 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted December 21, 2013 - 04:53 PM

Spain 

the o-ring is Deere part number 788024 they call it a square cut seal

 

the seal for the axle is part number 788008 


  • Navy Chief said thank you

#463 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

Navy Chief
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 30322
  • 152 Thanks
  • 407 posts
  • Location: Houston, Tx

Posted December 21, 2013 - 04:54 PM

Glen, That was just a pic, I haven't taken mine out yet but I might cause Im worried bought it leaking again, how hard is it to get out?

 

PS if you slide it off and the axle doesn't come out where is the oil seal on the case under the axle hub?

 

THX John


Edited by Spain, December 21, 2013 - 04:56 PM.

  • lyall said thank you

#464 lyall OFFLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,746 Thanks
  • 1,397 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted December 21, 2013 - 05:19 PM

Spain

 

remove the mower deck - first if you have it on - so that you can block the tractor up

 

remove the shifter ball and the foot peddle/s

remove the fender deck

that way you can get the the 5 bolts for the transaxle to the hitch .

remove the spring for the drive pulley

then you have to remove the pin for the brake

you have to remove the drive belt first - there 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the transaxle. so the the belt come off

then you should block the frame up so that you can remove the transaxle

 

then you can remove  the the 5 bolts 

 

then the transaxle will come out

 

PM me you phone number so that I can call you


Edited by lyall, December 21, 2013 - 05:20 PM.

  • Navy Chief said thank you

#465 lyall OFFLINE  

lyall

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2180
  • 1,746 Thanks
  • 1,397 posts
  • Location: State Center, Iowa

Posted December 21, 2013 - 05:26 PM

Spain 

I just check JDparts

 

snapshot3.png

 

snapshot4.png

 

 

you need parts number 6 and 15


Edited by lyall, December 21, 2013 - 05:27 PM.

  • Navy Chief said thank you




Top