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My 1968 John Deere 110


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#31 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 08:21 PM

Do you have spark?  The old school way of checking for spark is to place the end of a screwdriver in the spark plug boot and lay the screwdriver across the head.  Give the engine a crank and watch for a little spark.  Blue/white is better than yellow/orange.  If you don't have spark it could be several different things.   IIRC - The ignition on your '68 uses a magneto and I have not messed around with that style.

 

Just reviewed the thread...  If you have not either cleaned or replaced and set the points that is likely one source of problem.  Second - Condenser could be bad.  Once you have isolated those things then it could be the coil.  Again, I am not comfortable with the '68 ignition change to be 100% confident in my suggestions... :wallbanging:


Edited by Trav1s, March 22, 2013 - 08:26 PM.

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#32 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 08:46 PM

When you get the spark plug go ahead and get the points and condenser with it. Those should be replaced as often as the spark plug and they are inexpensive. Points should be capped at 20 thousandths. Rotate the engine till the points are pushed open and adjust the gap at that point. If that tractor has been sitting for a period of time the points will get rusty and not make a good contact. It definitely won't be long now. You'll be ready for another one!

Eric

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#33 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted March 22, 2013 - 08:48 PM

I may have been wrong in my last post but I thought the kohler's in JD's all used points? Everyone I have up to my '81 212 has points. That includes a 2 k301's, k241, and a k321. I would just assume the k181's would also have the same ignition. Although I'm definitely not known to be right at least according to my wife lol.

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Edited by dropped82, March 22, 2013 - 08:56 PM.

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#34 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 03:35 PM

Got the new spark plug, set the gap. The tractor started right up I even drove it around: FIRST TIEM SINCE GRANPA DIED that it has ran 22 years, has alot of power kind of vibrates the frame quite a bit though.

 

I strarted teaing her down now and removing the corrosion for the new paint job. I have made progress Yea!!


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#35 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 04:19 PM

That shake could be related to timing bring off.  Go for points/condenser before you put it to work.  Glad it is up and going!!!  :thumbs:


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#36 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 04:36 PM

Got the new spark plug, set the gap. The tractor started right up I even drove it around: FIRST TIEM SINCE GRANPA DIED that it has ran 22 years, has alot of power kind of vibrates the frame quite a bit though.

   It's a neat feeling when this sort of thing happens, Treasure the moment, sir!

 

 

That vibrating could be loose motor mounts, or anything, really, or could just be because it is a one-lunger...if ya speed it up and it settles down, that is it.  It could be the carb just needs tuning....I always start the air mix and gas screws at 1 1/2 turns out from all the way in..... then mess with them a little.  Usually end up with the airmix out 1 3/4 turns out and the gas screw 1 1/4 turns out.  The way to tune the gas screw is turn it out until it sounds to rich, then turn it in till it sounds choked, then find the happy medium between the 2 points.


Edited by James henry, March 23, 2013 - 04:39 PM.

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#37 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 04:48 PM

The engine in his '68 is a solid mount - bolts directly to the frame.  Between carb adjustments and ignition parts the engine should smooth out a fair bit.  My old '66 110 had more of a buzz to it when it was all tuned up.


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#38 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 07:33 PM

The motor itself wasnt shaking, it was the metal where you put your feet, I think that it needs bolted to the frame its not. Also does anyone have a pic how the belt to the mower deck hooks up? it came off BUt I will do the carp settings as suggested when I get it back together


Edited by Spain, March 23, 2013 - 07:37 PM.


#39 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 07:38 PM

I removed the mower deck in order to do the corrosion work and paint it, I was looking from under the tractor it doesnt appear that the variator arm attaches to any thing it has just a broke spring, anyone hav a pic of how its suppose to look?



#40 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 08:01 PM

I took the deck off the 112 to get some pics of the electric lift on it.  I only took the belt off the deck, it is still ran on the motor.  I will get some pics of it and post them here in the morning.  I have a '69 110, and a '72 112. My 112 runs, the 110 does not.  ...I know the 112 is up and going, I will have to check and see about the 110.  I will go out and take some pics of the variator on one of them too  in the morning.


Edited by James henry, March 23, 2013 - 08:05 PM.

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#41 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 08:23 PM

The motor itself wasnt shaking, it was the metal where you put your feet, I think that it needs bolted to the frame its not. Also does anyone have a pic how the belt to the mower deck hooks up? it came off BUt I will do the carp settings as suggested when I get it back together

 

There are rubber isolators that go between the fender pan and frame to reduce vibration.  If you go to www.jdparts.com, select the "JD Parts catalog" on the left side of the page, then do an "exact" model search for your 110 (serial numbers 100,001 and up) - you can get basic diagrams and part numbers.  This will also help with belt routing.  I saved and attached the fender pan and frame for reference.  You would be looking at items in the frame section and you would need your serial number handy.  

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • Fender deck M9947__________UN02JAN94.gif
  • frame M20853F________UN02JAN94.gif

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#42 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 11:22 PM

Does the lever on the left engage the mower deck on? When I move it I see it slide the bracket go down a little on the PTO up on the right front, but that pulley does not have the belt on it, only the bigger inboard one has the mower deck belt on it

 

Yes it doesnt seem like the rubber isolators are hook ed up causing fender to virbrate around


Edited by Spain, March 23, 2013 - 11:24 PM.


#43 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2013 - 07:40 AM

Does the lever on the left engage the mower deck on? When I move it I see it slide the bracket go down a little on the PTO up on the right front, but that pulley does not have the belt on it, only the bigger inboard one has the mower deck belt on it

 

Yes it doesnt seem like the rubber isolators are hook ed up causing fender to virbrate around

 

Yes, the lever on the left bottom of the pedestal is the pto.  The inner belt is the primary drive belt that goes back to the clutch/variator.  The mower/pto drive belt goes on the outside and is engaged by moving that lever.  My guess is that you don't have a mower drive belt.


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#44 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2013 - 07:52 AM

Those battery cables need some :help:



#45 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 24, 2013 - 09:40 AM

@Travis apparently Grandpa had the on there wrong belt or something the belt was on the bigger pulley inboard and went down to some other pulleys then he had it ran back to the mower deck, it came right off the mower pulley when I started it, maybe he had it rigged to turn on with the wrong belt on engine start, I thought it was on the wrong pulley, when I drove it as a kid I remember having to move the lever over before mower would engage.

 

Im confused about what lever is what? the handle on the right of the machine I thought was a parking brake, now I read on line that its a variator? If that's the Variator then whats the small lever on the dash at the right hand bottom side that appears to be hooked up to nothing? I'll take some pictures

 

@GT Lunic, one project at a time, yes the battery cables were routed wrong and worn out, and I will change them, but they worked to get the engine running afer I cleaned them






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