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My 1968 John Deere 110


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#286 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 06:43 AM

Well, I have a few more books I can look in. Will need your tractors serial number,and any extra added accs like electric lift?  Lights?

 

 


S/N tag shows T064 TYPE and S/N 112518M

 


#287 1971Deere OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 08:45 AM

Thanks for the numbers Travis, I missed them in all the pages.

 

I have attached a magneto wiring diagram, and a battery type for a 112 in the same serial number ranges. Just trace each wire from the ignition switch to where to goes. The 112 and later 110's had a circuit breaker in the ampmeter circuit. Your tractor did not show one. If it doesn't have one, it would be a good idea to add it.

 

You will need to make sure it you have a battery ignition switch. The magneto switch works backwords, It is closed when in the off position.

 

magneto.jpg

 

battery.jpg


Edited by 1971Deere, October 14, 2013 - 09:23 AM.

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#288 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 09:34 AM

I was thinking about this last night, when I first brought it home from the ranch it had a toggle switch installed on the dash and Grandpa scratched into the sticker "on" and "off" I switched it on before I started it and it started!!

 

 I thought it was a switch for an external light but now that I look at the attached pic and think about it, he had it wired into the ignition switch on two wires probably because the ignition switch was bad!!!

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#289 SupplySergeant OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 09:37 AM

Outstanding! Success is sweeter when you have to fight for it.


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#290 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 09:50 AM

Heres another pic which shows the black or purple and white wire cut where he spliced in other wires to that toggle switch

 

Heres my serial number pic its 112518M

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Edited by Spain, October 14, 2013 - 09:52 AM.

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#291 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 09:58 AM

Supply Sarge I took that switch out and repaired those spliced wires during the restore, so I think that its the ignition switch is bad and grandpa installed a separate toga switch across the two wires to make ignition power, that's my theory

 

During this restore evolution I found out Grandpa was the best jury rigger that I've see, he'd find something to make it work, now I have to reverse engineer what he did and fix it or replace it.


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#292 SupplySergeant OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 10:00 AM

I'm usually not lucky enough to know the shade-tree engineers I'm cleaning up after. At least this project has family memories to keep up your interest.


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#293 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 10:10 AM

Yes but now IM more confused the wiring diagram sent above shows an Orange wire hooked to terminal "C" if you look at my pic above my ignition switch terminal has nothing connected before and after restore, so now I don't know if the switch is bad or if the wiring harness is wired wrong


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#294 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 12:38 PM

Do you know if the engine is the original or a later model replacement from Kohler thru Deere?



#295 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2013 - 01:20 PM

If it were me... and this is only money... I would go with a new switch and wiring harness from Deere.  Eliminates some potential problems and makes trouble shooting easier in my mind.


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#296 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 09:00 AM

After tracing the wiring diagram above from 1971 Deere, which I have never seen or found before, I have found the "ORANGE" wire, now I have to hook it up and connect it to the switch!! I feel confident this will do it!!!! Will let you know


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#297 SupplySergeant OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 09:08 AM

:watch_over_fence: Watching with interest!


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#298 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 06:18 PM

Houston we have lift off!!!! Yea,

 

Found the Orange wire that was shown on 1971Deeres wiring diagram added a connector attached it to  the ignition switch Terminal "C", cranked it I now have a strong ignition spark.

 

THX for everyones help, weeks worth of headaches, that wiring diagram was a godsend. I saw the possible problem right away with that.

 

I didn't try to start it again, I have to figure out the carb now

 

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#299 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 08:11 PM

Looking at the wiring diagram my 110 mine is still different, the diagram shows the "White" wire going to the ignition only one wire, mine has the "White" wire going to the points and condenser on the negative side of the coil, then from the "Orange" accessory wire mine has a red wire that goes to the resistor block "Not shown on diagram" then from the block to the coil, it works so I guess I should leave it alone.

 

The 112 diagram shows the ignition wire going to the positive side of the coil without a resistor clock then the points and condenser hooked to the negative side



#300 1971Deere OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2013 - 09:11 PM

Looking at the wiring diagram my 110 mine is still different, the diagram shows the "White" wire going to the ignition only one wire, mine has the "White" wire going to the points and condenser on the negative side of the coil, then from the "Orange" accessory wire mine has a red wire that goes to the resistor block "Not shown on diagram" then from the block to the coil, it works so I guess I should leave it alone.

 

The 112 diagram shows the ignition wire going to the positive side of the coil without a resistor clock then the points and condenser hooked to the negative side

Glad you got it figured out. My Deeres both have coils with an internal resistor, I believe that is the original way.  Maybe, that was the only coil they had when it was rewired long ago. It is not a problem, If you ever change the coil, just remove the resistor block.


Edited by 1971Deere, October 15, 2013 - 09:32 PM.

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