My 1968 John Deere 110
Posted September 16, 2013 - 07:17 PM
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- Navy Chief said thank you
Posted September 16, 2013 - 07:38 PM
Doesn't the 12v go to the resistor block lowering it to 6v for the coil? Is it safe to run a direct battery wire to the coil pure 12v, wont burn up anything? or should I run the direct wire from the battery to the resistor block?
Posted September 16, 2013 - 07:47 PM
johndeereelfman which grounding areas?, the battery wire is grounded to the head, it cranks so I assume that part works, the blue wire comes from the positive solenoid goes into a white block on the front of the motor then a wire runs off that to the coil it looks hooked up right
Make sure your solenoid and white block are getting proper ground to the surface they are mounted to. Each electrical device used on these old tractors must be grounded to the frame, which is done by all of the mounting bolts, nuts and washers. If you have too much paint build up between the nuts, bolts and washers, your electrical devices won't ground themselves to the frame of the tractor. Either replace your flat washers with lock washers, or like Travis did, with star washers.
Always remember, everything works in a cycle. As soon as one element has a void, it will interfere with everything else it is intended to feed or supply.
- Navy Chief said thank you
Posted September 16, 2013 - 09:56 PM
IM wondering if its the white block I had it off and painted the engine green behind it and I painted its mounting bolt green
Posted September 16, 2013 - 10:33 PM
check the wire from the coil to the points
I had to replace that wire on 2 for my JDs (110 and 212) so far
Posted September 20, 2013 - 06:42 PM
1. Put the multi meter on the wire from the Resistor block to the coil POSTIVE side I have ZERO Volts DC
2. Put Meter on power wire that come from ignition to resistor block, checked power coming into resistor block, I have ZERO Volts DC
So I have NO power coming into resistor block
I removed the battery and battery tray, checked wires fixed any cuts, tried again NO LUCK No power
I don't know why its not powering that wire? could it be the ignition switch?
I ran a HOT wire from the battery to the resistor block.
1. Checked power at resistor block, HOT wire read 12Volts DC
2. Checked power at coil Positive side, had 6 Volts at coil
3. Removed Spark plug touched head cranked engine, IT HAS a Spark shocked my hand,it was a white blue spark
However after several cranking's it still wont start, don't know why, it has gas and spark. I might get some starting fluid tomorrow
could it be the points not firing properly enough to fire it off?
The orange wire in the pic going to the blue is the power wire that goes tot he resistor block
Edited by Spain, September 20, 2013 - 07:30 PM.
Posted September 20, 2013 - 09:55 PM
Trace the lead from the battery to the switch. Did you get a wiring diagram for this?
Posted September 20, 2013 - 11:08 PM
I have a diagram says its a 110, The main positive cable goes to some type of solenoid towards the bottom, of the console, that solenoid has a wire that goes to the amp meter another wire goes to the wiring harness off of there and another goes to the starter and another goes to shift neutral switch
Would the neutral safety switch keep the ignition from sparking even though the motor turns over? I thought the switches would stop the motor from cranking if not in the neutral position? Thoughts
I still don't know why it would start when I hot wired it, I had a spark.
Edited by Spain, September 21, 2013 - 09:25 AM.
Posted September 21, 2013 - 11:49 AM
I guess this is good news, the power wire that goes to the Resistor block from the ignition switch had a quick disconnect wire, close to the switch, it was not getting power at that connection (Corroded) I temp wired it in behind that connection and the SPARK PLUG now sparks when you crank it, I will fix this wire, Im going to buy a new power wire for it also.
Next issue will be WHY doesn't it start? I have power SPARK and fuel and carp is rebuilt and it ran before the Refurb.
Suggestions on starting it, Im going to get some started fluid that's what I did last time
Im making progress.
Posted September 21, 2013 - 04:16 PM
Slow progress is better than NO progress. Do you have fuel?
Posted September 22, 2013 - 08:17 AM
Yes have fuel, disconnected fuel line and verified and took spark plug out and it had fuel under plug, will try the starter fluid later today
- Trav1s said thank you
Posted September 22, 2013 - 06:03 PM
Spent most of the day running a new power wire to resistor block and another from the resistor block to the coil. I also repaired several wires that Grandpa had spliced into to add a switch. I now have a white spark between the gap on the spark plug. Installed spark plug, checked to see if fuel was coming out of the fuel line "YES".
But it wont start? Im starting to think the carb got gummed up while it has been sitting and the engine isn't getting fuel, or maybe the spark on the plug isn't strong enough to light it off.
Tomorrow Im going to remove the Carb bowl and see if there's fuel in there
Heres some before and after repairs of the wire harness
Edited by Spain, September 22, 2013 - 07:10 PM.
Posted September 23, 2013 - 08:17 PM
Found another major issue today:
Crank it over today, I removed the Carb Bowl and Found almost rusty looking gas with a lot of debris. I guess sitting so long the gas tank rusted or developed crud.
Im going to take off carb re clean all jets, drain out gas tank and add an in line fuel filter hopefully that will do the trick.
Posted September 24, 2013 - 07:58 PM
Drained gas tank today in a glass Jar, gas appears to be clean.
I know what happened now, before I tore the machine down, I rebuilt the carb and put gas in the dirty gas tank, this it put crud in the carb, later deep cleaned and dried the gas tank.
So the crud is from the first run up dirty gas tank, my fault!
Posted September 24, 2013 - 08:02 PM
Always good to figure out the cause of the problem. Have you gotten it running now?