Welcome! Congrats on the project. There are a few of us who really dig the old 110's. Pics would be nice if you can get them for us. I still need to pick up the '68 that I found...
A bit of background for you about the 1968 models...
- Early production tractors (up to serial number 4,000 approximately) the serial tag was located above the variator handle (and behind the side of hood when closed) and are know as "side tag" machines. While not more valuable, they are desirable.
- The early '68's have a few "left over" pieces on them from the 1967 round fender machines. The steering wheel the most noticeable item and there are other small items. Another '68 identifier is the transaxle vent/fill tube below the seat.
- 1968 was the first year of the JD garden tractor that did NOT have a starter/generator.
- It would be powered by a Kohler K181 and have a Peerless 2300 4 speed transaxle
This thread shows details specific to the 1968 models including pics of the details mentioned above: http://gardentractor...8-110-side-tag/
Weekendfreedommachines.com have this to say about the 1968 models:
The most obvious design change was in 1968 when the separate "round fenders" were replaced by a one-piece "fender deck" that was rubber mounted to the frame. The next significant change occurred in 1972 with a larger, heavier frame, choice of the 8 hp Kohler K181S or a 10 hp Kohler K241S engine. Electric lift became an option in 1973.
As to your questions:
- I would try a regular Lawn and Garden tractor battery (got mine from Napa for right around $40)
- Give the rust penetrating oil time to work. I would also gently tap on the top of the button with a hammer and see if it would help free it up. (I personally like PB Blaster when things are really crusty.)
- The two levers at the base of the pedestal are for the PTO (which you mentioned) and the parking brake
As for your repairs, you might find a Deere service manual helpful with the project. You can get them on evilBay or directly from Deere. I would begin with the following steps if I was doing the work:
- - clean fuel system rebuild, carb, and replace fuel line
- - drain old oil and replace with 1 qt of 30wt
- - Tune-up including points, condensor, spark plug, and wire
- - Check out the wiring/safety switches (PTO and neutral safety) and make all are good
- - replace positive and negative battery cables
- - install new battery and try to start it (if you have determined the piston/crank are not seized)
- - Drain and refill transaxle with 80w90 gear lube
- - Replace drive belts and related springs with parts from Deere
Feel free to ask questions as you go!
Edited by Trav1s, March 13, 2013 - 06:31 AM.