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My 1968 John Deere 110


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#1 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2013 - 09:46 PM

I just got a 1968 John Deere 110 from my grandfathers ranch that he had in the barn.

 

I've been inspecting it, the fuel system it is clogged Im cleaning and replacing necessary parts,  fuel tank and carb are gummed up, the engine appears good and the head has been replaced.

 

1. A couple of question what size battery do I need? the post on the mower are of the car type not square

 

2. The mower deck latching arm wont latch, I sprayed Rust Buster on the button which was frozen. Any suggestions how to make the mechanism work?

 

3. There are two levers on the dash, one on the left is for engaging the mower what is the other one on the right side for? its not hooked up to anything and moves around.


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#2 Delmar ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 12:22 AM

Hello and welcome to GTtalk!.  My 1969 110 uses a regular car-size battery (a small one).  The rust buster ought to work, may take some time and used several times.  Just keep working with it, top and bottom.  The lever on the right is the speed variator...it sort of changes the gearing from high to low.  your tractor has a 3-speed foward with 1 speed reverse transmission.  That variator lever lets you have a second set of speeds.  so now you have 6 foward (3 hi and 3 low) and 2 reverse (1 hi ands 1 low) speeds.

 

That is a great tractor you have.  They are powerful machines.  Is yours a 8 or a 10 hp?

 

If you could, post some pictures of your tractor.   

 

 

  :welcome:


Edited by James henry, March 13, 2013 - 12:29 AM.

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#3 jd.rasentrac OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 12:52 AM

:welcometogttalk:



#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 04:58 AM

Welcome to the forum! Pics are a nice thing and we like them a lot!



#5 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 05:24 AM

Welcome to GTT. Relax and check out the site.



#6 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 05:38 AM

Congrats on the new tractor. It's always nice to get a tractor with a family history.



#7 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:18 AM

Welcome!  Congrats on the project.  There are a few of us who really dig the old 110's.  Pics would be nice if you can get them for us.  I still need to pick up the '68 that I found...

 

A bit of background for you about the 1968 models...

  • Early production tractors (up to serial number 4,000 approximately) the serial tag was located above the variator handle (and behind the side of hood when closed) and are know as "side tag" machines.  While not more valuable, they are desirable.
  • The early '68's have a few "left over" pieces on them from the 1967 round fender machines.  The steering wheel the most noticeable item and there are other small items.  Another '68 identifier is the transaxle vent/fill tube below the seat.
  • 1968 was the first year of the JD garden tractor that did NOT have a starter/generator.
  • It would be powered by a Kohler K181 and have a Peerless 2300 4 speed transaxle

This thread shows details specific to the 1968 models including pics of the details mentioned above:  http://gardentractor...8-110-side-tag/

 

Weekendfreedommachines.com have this to say about the 1968 models:

The most obvious design change was in 1968 when the separate "round fenders" were replaced by a one-piece "fender deck" that was rubber mounted to the frame. The next significant change occurred in 1972 with a larger, heavier frame, choice of the 8 hp Kohler K181S or a 10 hp Kohler K241S engine.  Electric lift became an option in 1973.

 

As to your questions:

  • I would try a regular Lawn and Garden tractor battery (got mine from Napa for right around $40)
  • Give the rust penetrating oil time to work.  I would also gently tap on the top of the button with a hammer and see if it would help free it up.  (I personally like PB Blaster when things are really crusty.)
  • The two levers at the base of the pedestal are for the PTO (which you mentioned) and the parking brake

 

As for your repairs, you might find a Deere service manual helpful with the project.  You can get them on evilBay or directly from Deere.  I would begin with the following steps if I was doing the work:

  • - clean fuel system rebuild, carb, and replace fuel line
  • - drain old oil and replace with 1 qt of 30wt
  • - Tune-up including points, condensor, spark plug, and wire
  • - Check out the wiring/safety switches (PTO and neutral safety) and make all are good
  • - replace positive and negative battery cables
  • - install new battery and try to start it (if you have determined the piston/crank are not seized)
  • - Drain and refill transaxle with 80w90 gear lube
  • - Replace drive belts and related springs with parts from Deere

 

Feel free to ask questions as you go!

 

Travis


Edited by Trav1s, March 13, 2013 - 06:31 AM.

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#8 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:33 AM

Welcome to the forum!  It seems like Travis has you fixed up and ready to get a 110 running.

 

I like the family background on your tractor, I'm sure it makes it special to you.  I own my grandfather's Gravely: it is never leaving my hands!

 

Ben W.


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#9 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 08:55 AM

Here is a link to the Kohler site where you can download a service manual for the K-series manuals in PDF form. 

http://www.kohlereng...series=K-Series


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#10 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 02:32 PM

Do you have the dimesions or group size # of the battery?  The variable speed lever spring is broke level moves around, have to find a new spring. THX for you help

Hello and welcome to GTtalk!.  My 1969 110 uses a regular car-size battery (a small one).  The rust buster ought to work, may take some time and used several times.  Just keep working with it, top and bottom.  The lever on the right is the speed variator...it sort of changes the gearing from high to low.  your tractor has a 3-speed foward with 1 speed reverse transmission.  That variator lever lets you have a second set of speeds.  so now you have 6 foward (3 hi and 3 low) and 2 reverse (1 hi ands 1 low) speeds.

 

That is a great tractor you have.  They are powerful machines.  Is yours a 8 or a 10 hp?

 

If you could, post some pictures of your tractor.   

 

 

  :welcome:



#11 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 02:44 PM

She is in Heavy Maintenance Now

 

IMG_00071.jpg IMG_00261.jpg


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#12 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 02:44 PM

IIRC the battery is a 22F which I believe was standardized across the Deere line with the redesign in 1968.

 

That machine is in great "survivor" condition.  Where is the serial tag? :smilewink:


Edited by Trav1s, March 13, 2013 - 02:45 PM.


#13 Navy Chief OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 02:44 PM

I will post the S/N when I get home tonight


Edited by Spain, March 13, 2013 - 03:03 PM.


#14 dropped82 ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 02:56 PM

Welcome to Gttalk! That 110 looks to be in pretty good shape. You will have it going in no time and will love it. I love those 100 series JD's and work mine everyday. Hang around here and you will learn more than you ever wanted to know about these great machines. When replacing the drive belts, be sure to check the variator and make sure its free. It is common for these to freeze up when not being used.

Eric

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Edited by dropped82, March 13, 2013 - 03:01 PM.

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#15 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 02:59 PM

Looks to be an earlier '68 as it has the RF style steering wheel with the large center cap.  The tag would either be on the pedestal below the dash or on the right side of the tractor which is not in any of the pics. 

 

One more thought: Those tires are made of a softer compound than the other types available.  If you plan on using it regularly either keep it off of concrete/asphalt or swap on different tires.  Restoration guys want those in good condition.


Edited by Trav1s, March 13, 2013 - 03:02 PM.





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