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Starting My Diesel Education

yanmar diesel

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#46 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 11:22 AM

Black smoke can also mean a dirty air cleaner. Does I have 2 filters or just 1?

 

Yes, and if it has a 2 stage filter, the inner one may "look" clean, but it can fool you.  


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#47 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 11:25 AM

If you have an inner and and a outer filter, you can blow the outer filter out, but the inner has to be replaced, it can not be blown out. The dirt that's in the inner is so fine it will plug the filter, and can't safety be blown out.
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#48 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 03:44 PM

If you have an inner and and a outer filter, you can blow the outer filter out, but the inner has to be replaced, it can not be blown out. The dirt that's in the inner is so fine it will plug the filter, and can't safety be blown out.

 

Very true....when they're done, they're DONE!


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#49 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 08:44 PM

Very interesting project so far. This little tractor is quite similar to early, Yanmar- built JD 650 compacts*. .9L 3cyl instead of the .9L 2 cyl with 2 added HP, similar pre-heat system, pump and injectors, cowl, dash, fuel tank and controls also. I wish I had the 2 parked together for better comparison, but haven't found a 650 manual yet. Only a slight diff. in hood and grill. The throttle linkage is exact.

 

The Yanmar may well be a "grey" market tractor, but the 3T 72 engine was used on early YM 180s for US import. PTO is CW 6 spline. OA length/ width vary by about 6 inches and the rear tire width is variable by changing pin locations which lock the wheel to the the axle shaft.

 Of course the front axle set-back is greater on the YM-(for turning radius I guess) because it did not use a belly mower-interference with the front drive shaft.

 

* with power at 18HP, between the 16HP 650s and the 20 HP 750s, with weight the same 1180 instead of the heavier 1550  for the JD750.



#50 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2013 - 08:02 AM

crack all the injectors and crank the tractor. the PO might of run it out of fuel and it needs bled.  I love those tires probibly great in mud


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#51 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 05:55 AM

The air filter is a single stage and before I start this Am, I'll check it again.

The return line was quite "milky' appearing

**I've checked the lines from tank to injector inlet for blockage and cleaned and flushed. (also the pre-heat/return lines)

**Free flow of clean, new fuel, from tank thru filter to pump body.

**With pump delivery lines cracked at the pump, and starter turning over, there is no apparent bubbling or splashing

    present at the pump discharge fittings, only standing fuel. I blew out the 3 delivery lines and , with a new, NAPA oil can loaded with the new fuel, pumped as much diesel into the lines as I could (dispel air) and then reconnected the lines to the pump and injectors.  

** After cranking several times, with appropriate starter cool-down time, I cracked the line-to-injector fitttings, cranked again and new fuel is flowing from the open fittings---"flowing" NOT spraying.  I repeated this twice.

** During cranking--it seems to be trying . With an increasing flow of white smoke at the exhaust, but no pop. I'm cranking only about 10-15 seconds at a time- so as not fry the starter.--Cool, then repeat.

** After several of these cycles, I begin loosing battery, so its back to another hot battery and repeat. Still no pop, but its trying.

   Also with about 15 seconds with the starter cranking, the white exhaust smoke is streaming. I use the Thermal Start for about 20 seconds and then crank with the compression release open about 8 secs or so, then close.

 

  After repeating this with battery changes for about an hour nothing but smoke. If this were as gas engine, I'd swear it sounds flooded.

                      I'll try again at daylight. 


Edited by Toolpartzman, March 13, 2013 - 05:59 AM.


#52 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:00 AM

From the sounds of things, I think you are getting there. Hope she fires off soon!


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#53 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:12 AM

The Thermal Start function is shown below. The round "fuel reservior" can be seen between the hoses. There are 3 lines. 1)Return from the injectors to the can, 2) from the can back to tank.

The third line runs from the can's base to a fitting and heated coil threaded into the side of the

intake manifold.

   The Start Manual says--1) Hold TS on (from starter switch) unit smoke is visable

                                         2) Turn starter to start and crank engine with compression release pulled  

until it wants to start, then release compression release.

                                         3) at start, return ignition switch to TS position and hold until engine warms.

                                        

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#54 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:17 AM

After the air is bleed from the lines, it will take a while to build enough pressure in the lines to open the injectors. I'm not sure of this motor, but most of the ones I have worked on operate on around 1800 psi. And with the inj pump only pumping a very, very small amount at a time it can take a while to build enough pressure to open the injectors.

Just because you don't see any air coming from the lines, doesn't mean it doesn't have any. Since it is blowing a bit of white smoke that is a good thing, it means at least some fuel is getting to the motor. BTW white smoke normally means low compression, most diesels will blow a little white smoke at first, until they warm up.

If you ever watched a NTC400 Cummins warming up in the morning you will see what I mean. I had a 5.7 Olds Diesel what would roll LOTS of white smoke in the morning, you would have thought I blew the motor up. The colder it hot the worse it was, It wasn't so bad when the weather warmed up. If fact when it was above 80* I didn't even need to use the glow plugs to start it.
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#55 cumminsmannow OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:26 AM

If i understand your process correctly i think you are trying to push the air thru the injectors. <br />You need to crack the injector lines loose at the injector and crank until there is a good flow of fuel coming out at the injector. It really wont be spurting out just a slow flow of fuel. I dont know the exact specs on your injection pump but i wouldnt expect to see more than half a teaspoon worth of fuel out if the pump in say 5 sec of cranking. It doesnt flow that much. So it will take a while to get everything bled. <br />It wouldnt hurt to remove the return lines off of the injectors to see if there is fuel coming back thru the injector. <br />
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#56 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:28 AM

Thanks Pat. I have to believe that air is present in the injectors. With everything open I'd think they'd have to.



#57 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:32 AM

If i understand your process correctly i think you are trying to push the air thru the injectors. <br />You need to crack the injector lines loose at the injector and crank until there is a good flow of fuel coming out at the injector. It really wont be spurting out just a slow flow of fuel. I dont know the exact specs on your injection pump but i wouldnt expect to see more than half a teaspoon worth of fuel out if the pump in say 5 sec of cranking. It doesnt flow that much. So it will take a while to get everything bled. <br />It wouldnt hurt to remove the return lines off of the injectors to see if there is fuel coming back thru the injector. <br />

Half a teaspoon from the 3 fittings is just about what it was (each time). I'll pull those return lines first thing. If anything it would tell me which may be clogged.



#58 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:35 AM

There is also at least 2 pump plungers in the inj pump that will have a small amount of air as well.

I have a loose fuel line create enough air to cause a problem, not loose enough to cause a leak, but loose enough to suck air.
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#59 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:44 AM

There is also at least 2 pump plungers in the inj pump that will have a small amount of air as well.

I have a loose fuel line create enough air to cause a problem, not loose enough to cause a leak, but loose enough to suck air.

I added a second gallon and 1/2 to the tank, opened the cap and filter shut off. Its much higher than the pump or injectors, but it was flying out of the pump inlet line. I think I was carefull with the fittings, but I'll check it again.

I've burped many a hydraulic line that was easier.



#60 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:49 AM

From the sounds of things, I think you are getting there. Hope she fires off soon!                     

Hope so too Kenny. I'd hate to have to pull the injectors to dump the air, but I'm in no rush. :wave:


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