Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Starting My Diesel Education

yanmar diesel

  • Please log in to reply
153 replies to this topic

#31 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,605 Thanks
  • 29,834 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted March 09, 2013 - 09:00 AM

Yes, a block heater is FAR easier on the engine, and will allow perfect starting.  Usually 1 hour of the block heater is enough.



#32 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,478 Thanks
  • 5,011 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted March 09, 2013 - 10:09 AM

My Fordson has both an engine heater and the manifold heater. This manifold heater is a little different. It has a manual spritzer aimed at  the heater. I usually pump it twice and then engage the heater for 40 seconds and then spritz it twice again and crank the engine. Usually starts instantly. The warm diesel fumes really make a difference. If it is below freezing I will do like Daniel and plug in the heater for an hour. 


  • Toolpartzman said thank you

#33 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

Toolpartzman

    Fun With Horsepower

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 7171
  • 468 Thanks
  • 1,280 posts
  • Location: Little Rock,AR

Posted March 09, 2013 - 02:53 PM

Now lunch and I've made some progress.  The battery that I charged and "thought was good" was down to zip by the time I installed new battery cables. His original battery was charging while this was happening and I put a meter on it and it read only 8 VDC, so BOTH are questionable--No problem, I've got a HOT trolling motor battery if I need it. New tube in RF tire and both mounted correctly.

 

 The fuel and filter looked real good, but I drained it anyway and replaced the filter. I'll go for diesel and top off everything else and hope she cranks when I return.

 

The fuel shutoff has a lock screw which accounted for it being difficult to operate.  So little -by-little, I'm finishing the checklist.


  • KennyP and boyscout862 have said thanks

#34 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

WNYTractorTinkerer

    Tinker Master

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10789
  • 8,307 Thanks
  • 4,659 posts
  • Location: Avon, NY

Posted March 09, 2013 - 03:23 PM

Being that this thing is giving you trouble you may have condensation or water in the fuel lines..  Now that you have the filter replaced and good fuel that far..  Follow down the line to the pump.  Loosed the line's mounting bolt and observe the flow and fuel quality there..  If its all good, tighten it back up and get a helper for the next step..  follow the lines from the injector and loosen the nuts that hold them on to the injectors.  (just a bit so you can see fuel being pumped through)..  Heve your helper crank the key with all safety's set and observe fuel flow and quality dripping from these lines.  You will be able to hear air pockets as they bleed off..  Once you have good flow tighten the nuts back up and it should start.  Poor flow will indicate an air bound pump (look for a bleeder on the pump body)  or faulty pump..  

 

Hope this helps..


  • Toolpartzman said thank you

#35 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

Toolpartzman

    Fun With Horsepower

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 7171
  • 468 Thanks
  • 1,280 posts
  • Location: Little Rock,AR

Posted March 09, 2013 - 05:21 PM

RUNNING              

 Not well, but running. That big battery was a big help. Cannot build RPMs though. 950-1000 max.

 

I disconnected throttle linkage because it appeared to be backwards-i.e. Accellerated for a bit maybe to 1400 and then died.  (I worked the throttle shaft directly at the pump housing)

Ran it about a minute before that. It has bleeders at the fuel filter and at the pump. I tried both in sequence, but after several tries, I could never see fuel burping out. I can start it , repeatedly, with throttle full open and it just idles, then slowly dies  as if fuel-starved.

Blowing black and it sounds OK, but I'm leary of running it much at such a slow speed.

 

Question:   How long is a reasonable time to expect air bleeding to work.? I've cranked it-perhaps a dozen times-with the pump bleed completely open and still no evidence of fuel. It definately acts as if its fuel-starved.

 

Question 2 I have no idea how the pumps work. A series of CK valves in sequence to build high pressure, similar to a multiplexer?   Its a "Bosch -type plunger" according to the book. That would be similar to a pressure washer pump with

insividual pistons in sequence?

 

Keith everythings tight. and Cvans was right it didn't like a weak battery. That new deep-well trolling battery spun it right up.


Edited by Toolpartzman, March 09, 2013 - 05:27 PM.

  • boyscout862 said thank you

#36 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,605 Thanks
  • 29,834 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted March 09, 2013 - 05:31 PM

You could also possibly have trash in the fuel tank.  One of our large diesels got to where it would not run long above idle without just dying out on me.  I could blow the fuel line backwards to the tank & it would be fine for a little while, then dying out syndrome again.  I finally had to pull the fuel tank & flush crap out of it.  It's been fine ever since.


  • Toolpartzman, boyscout862 and WNYTractorTinkerer have said thanks

#37 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

Toolpartzman

    Fun With Horsepower

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 7171
  • 468 Thanks
  • 1,280 posts
  • Location: Little Rock,AR

Posted March 09, 2013 - 06:33 PM

MO PICS-------------

Attached Thumbnails

  • P3090154.JPG
  • P3090155.JPG
  • P3090156.JPG
  • P3090157.JPG

  • KennyP said thank you

#38 Amigatec OFFLINE  

Amigatec

    Collector of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5899
  • 2,023 Thanks
  • 3,172 posts
  • Location: Haskell Oklahoma

Posted March 09, 2013 - 07:07 PM

one thing you might try is to check the return line line and make sure it's open and not clogged. I know for a fact that Roosamaster Pumps like found on 5.7, and 6.2 diesels will not run with a return line plugged. don't know about the Bosch pumps.


  • Toolpartzman said thank you

#39 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,478 Thanks
  • 5,011 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted March 09, 2013 - 09:06 PM

It can take a little while before all the air is out. Try cracking the nuts on the injectors again and see if you get anymore air. Do you know if your tractor is equipped with an electric or manual lift pump? If you have either one and it is not working your going to have a hard time getting it to run. Also look for another filter near the tank. This is where most of your crud will accumulate. Leave the cap loose on your fuel tank until you get it running just too eliminate a bad vent. If your tank is lower than the injector pump take the incoming fuel line loose at the injector pump and apply a "little" (less than 2psi.) air pressure into the fuel tank and see if you have good fuel flow at the pump. If your tank is above the pump it should just run out at the pump. 

Good luck.


  • Alc, Toolpartzman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#40 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,408 Thanks
  • 3,158 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted March 10, 2013 - 11:27 AM

That rig has a gravity system, it is absolutely critical of fuel flow. Make sure all the fittings are spotless .specialy at the tank and pump.
If you have good flow at the pump it will most likely run well. It is completely mechanical so it should be fine once you have good fuel. Unless it has gum issues in the pump causing things to get stuck, but it ran so I doubt that is a problem.
  • Alc and Toolpartzman have said thanks

#41 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

Toolpartzman

    Fun With Horsepower

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 7171
  • 468 Thanks
  • 1,280 posts
  • Location: Little Rock,AR

Posted March 11, 2013 - 06:07 AM

That rig has a gravity system, it is absolutely critical of fuel flow. Make sure all the fittings are spotless .specialy at the tank and pump.
If you have good flow at the pump it will most likely run well. It is completely mechanical so it should be fine once you have good fuel. Unless it has gum issues in the pump causing things to get stuck, but it ran so I doubt that is a problem.

Thankx Keith. That's what I was thinking. The fuel I drained was "visably" clean, but Sat when I was looking for a new fuel filter, the Yanmar dealer was closed, so I used one from the JD AGPRO dealer for a 400 series GT(w/Yanmar). Just slightly taller. With it in place, the bowl would stay at only half-full, even while running. Rained yesterday so today I'll get the correct one and start cleaning lines.



#42 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

John@Reliable

    Procrastinators unite tomorrow

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 36
  • 1,295 Thanks
  • 1,416 posts
  • Location: Boston- Cape Cod MA

Posted March 11, 2013 - 08:43 AM

Black smoke? Usually fuel or air delivery trouble. Personally I would drain fuel tank, blow out lines, change air(also check air hose and housing for blockage>nests) and fuel filters, add few gallons of fresh fuel & mega dose of Sea-foam or Lucas diesel treatment with injector cleaner and let it run, after doing oil and filter too, this has worked for me over the years with trucks that have sat. If that doesn't clear it time to dig a little deeper.


  • Toolpartzman said thank you

#43 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,605 Thanks
  • 29,834 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted March 11, 2013 - 08:51 AM

Lots of black smoke may indicate injectors not building proper pressure, or not popping off at a high pressure, nozzles worn, etc.  This causes diesel fuel not to be sprayed into the cylinder as an atomized mist.  It will be the sort of the same as flooding a gas engine.


  • Alc and Toolpartzman have said thanks

#44 Amigatec OFFLINE  

Amigatec

    Collector of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5899
  • 2,023 Thanks
  • 3,172 posts
  • Location: Haskell Oklahoma

Posted March 11, 2013 - 11:10 AM

Black smoke can also mean a dirty air cleaner. Does I have 2 filters or just 1?
  • Toolpartzman said thank you

#45 twostep OFFLINE  

twostep

    Rockstar

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 10198
  • 1,850 Thanks
  • 2,476 posts
  • Location: Berea, KY

Posted March 11, 2013 - 11:12 AM

I thought at first it was Buttugly with those paddle tires, but I'm warming up to it.

 

Nice diesel you have there. I really like the tins on that thing! It looks like it doesn't have a spot of rust on it. Don't you just love the smell of diesel in the morning :rocker2:


  • Toolpartzman said thank you





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: yanmar diesel

Top