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Starting My Diesel Education

yanmar diesel

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#16 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 07:40 PM

You guys have been a help already. I do have the op manual and it's pretty detailed-very little service but it does have electrical circuit.  I think the old gal was taken "reasonable" care of-cleans up OK. Maybe I have a KEEPER--I'll find out



#17 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 07:42 PM

Has the fuel filter been changed lately? That's a cool looking tractor and I hope you get it running good before long!

                         Don't know Kenny-It seems the shut off is locked in "on" or difficult to turn, but fuel looks OK--but it sure smells

                         like diesel--- :rolling:  :rolling:


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#18 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 07:49 PM

If it has been sitting, it may have some water in the bottom of the filter causing it to run rough. Been a number of years since I've had a diesel. I know water and air in the system make them run rough or not at all.


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#19 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 07:52 PM

Its beginning to grow on me alright. I has diff. lock, differential braking, and an aux port for adapting remote hydraulics. Once I got the dust and bird-droppings washed off it looked a little better. If I can get her running right, it may be a hoss.


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#20 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 07:54 PM

If it has been sitting, it may have some water in the bottom of the filter causing it to run rough. Been a number of years since I've had a diesel. I know water and air in the system make them run rough or not at all.       Thankx Kenny. I try that immediately. He bought it to mow his property and just didn't like pulling the bush hog--so he bought another "mower"---Good bet its got a water problem !!!


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#21 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 08:17 PM

                         Don't know Kenny-It seems the shut off is locked in "on" or difficult to turn, but fuel looks OK--but it sure smells
                         like diesel--- :rolling:  :rolling:

That sounds familiar! the shutoff was very sticky on my Ford when I got it. The oil was also over full. I always wondered if the previous owner evr shut it off. I was afraid the fuel was diluting the oil so the first thing i did was change the oil. It has never gotten over full since.
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#22 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 08:53 PM

 Very nice looking tractor  :thumbs:

 

The fuel system does need to be clean from the tank to the injectors with no air in the system. If your fuel filters are black you have mold in your fuel system and will have to treat your fuel until it clears up or you will be buying filters all the time. 

 To get  a diesel to start quickly and reliably it needs an excellent starting system. The lower your starting rpm's the lower your compression is going to be and the less likely it will start. Don't use starting fluids. If you need starting fluids to start a modern diesel there is something wrong. Especially in your part of the country were it's always warm. With the older, lower compression diesels you could get away with using starting fluids but on the newer engines you will just cause damage to the engine. The starting fluid will wash the lubricating oils off of the cylinder wall and be prone to doing ring groove damage. 

I hope I didn't miss this but how many hours are on the tractor?


Edited by Cvans, March 08, 2013 - 08:55 PM.

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#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 09:45 PM

Avoiding starting fluids is best, but they do make starting fluid with top end lube added for ring protection.  Sounds like a stopped up fuel filter or air.  Also, if the fuel pump is a mechanical unit, if the check valves are gummed up to where they can't seat, it won't build enough pressure to run right or at all.  We've had that issue on our large tractors.  More than once, I've found a check valve completely out of it's socket, as the factory dimple crimps weren't tight enough.


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#24 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted March 08, 2013 - 11:08 PM

Chris talking about starting reminds me. I am sure I read somewhere the Yanmars had a decompression valve.
One of the tricks to starting them was to decompress, spin them up till oil pressure comes up and close the decompression valve.
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#25 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2013 - 06:03 AM

Clean the fuel system, put in fresh filters, fill with Shell premium diesel and put in some diesel 911 additive . CHECK TO BE SURE THE INJECTOR PUMP BODIES ARE TIGHTENED!!! These are the nut like things at the " injector pump body that the injector lines are connected to" they will loosen up and cause horrific grief !!
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#26 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2013 - 06:39 AM

Avoiding starting fluids is best, but they do make starting fluid with top end lube added for ring protection.  Sounds like a stopped up fuel filter or air.  Also, if the fuel pump is a mechanical unit, if the check valves are gummed up to where they can't seat, it won't build enough pressure to run right or at all.  We've had that issue on our large tractors.  More than once, I've found a check valve completely out of it's socket, as the factory dimple crimps weren't tight enough.

Thanks Daniel. Looks like a fuel system cleaning will be needed. Where will be the best spot to burp the air out? At the injectors?



#27 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2013 - 06:42 AM

Chris talking about starting reminds me. I am sure I read somewhere the Yanmars had a decompression valve.
One of the tricks to starting them was to decompress, spin them up till oil pressure comes up and close the decompression valve.

 

Yes, you're, right it has a decompression lever for start-up



#28 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2013 - 06:58 AM

My replies seem to get jumbled up within the quote:?

                               I think about 1100 hrs on the meter

                               They call the cold start a "Thermal Start". The manual describes a single device connected to the

          fuel line containing a needle valve and coil. When power is sent to the coil, it becomes hot and the heated needle valve

          opens to allow a small amount of fuel to flow onto the coil. "Watch for smoke..." and then start as normal.?

 

Keith do the injector require a special tool ? In looking for filters on EBay , I found a small "removal tool" for about $65---Perhaps for disassembly once its removed from the head or ???. Seems a little steep if its not mandantory.


Edited by Toolpartzman, March 09, 2013 - 07:03 AM.


#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2013 - 08:46 AM

That thermal start system sounds like what is on our Massey Super 90.  With it, I can actually hear the bit of fuel ignite most times.  Just a "poof" sound, then she'll fire up.  It heats the air in the intake to make an easier start.


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#30 Oo-v-oO OFFLINE  

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Posted March 09, 2013 - 08:54 AM

My Ford 550 backhoe has the same starting assist. Goofy, huh?  :D

 

In really cold weather when you need it the most, the battery voltage will drop just enough so the coil won't get hot enough to ignite the fuel. Usually a visit from a battery charger will boost it up just enough to get it to light off then no problem. 

I've found just plugging in the block heater works as well. 


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