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Case Rototiller Overhaul


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#1 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 08:25 PM

It's J74 model and came with the 448 whenI bought it.   Made in 1980, it has some miles on it, but is in surprisingly good shape.   This is a hydraulic drive tiller, like the one here (scroll down): 

http://www.uship.com...ller/868671024/

 

The hydraulic drive motor had a slight oil leak, so I ordered a seal kit from Brian at Salem Power Equipment.   Got that today.   Bearings are coming from FC Mason:  http://fcmason.thoma...&origin=keyword

 

I have a box of #50 roller chain to replace the drive chain, since the tension adjustment was in the last hole. 

 

The trick to this is getting it APART.   The tiller main shaft is made of 3 pieces, the long center part, and a stub shaft pressed into each end.   I do mean PRESSED in.  These have to come apart in order to replace bearings.   The old bearings were still usable, but worn and you can't grease them.

 

I have an 8 pound home made slide hammer that barely got the drive stub out.  The other end was worse, but yielded to 48" pipe wrenches and a long piece of 1 1/8" diameter rod banging in the open end of the tube repeatedly.   Thought I'd have to get out the torch, but it decided to move.   

 

So, today I am cleaning and painting parts, between other disasters.   Trying hard to have all the garden stuff ready when the weather warms up.  

 

More on this when I get farther along.


Edited by machinist, March 06, 2013 - 08:29 PM.

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#2 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 07, 2013 - 11:19 PM

After getting the tiller shaft apart, I miked the stub shaft at 1.245" diameter.   I ran a 1.250" reamer in the tube part and it barely hung on some burrs around the pin hole, but drug out some dirt and rust.   It slides in and out easily now.   I think it was just some crud in there that had it stuck.   Other people report the same problem, though.   

 

Received the bearings today, and the motor seal kit yesterday, so I cleaned parts today, prepping for paint.    Should have this bad boy back together in a few days, after the paint cures somewhat.   No classy restoration job here, just a brush paint job with Case tractor enamel to keep the rust away.  'll try to make it look decent, but the purpose of this machine is to WORK for a living, after all.  

 

I'll tear into the hydraulic motor soon to see if it needs bearings, so I can get them ordered while I'm working on the rest of it.   Still fighting the leftovers of flu and head cold, so I'm not moving very fast on this.  



#3 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 09:38 AM

I have the hydraulic motor torn apart and now reading the instructions that came with the seal kit.  I scrubbed the outside before cracking any bolts loose and got caps on the hoses to keep them clean and keep the oil from running out on the floor.   With some luck and VERY CAREFUL work it should be going soon.    Any advice on this would be appreciated!    Yes, I marked the parts for orientation to assure I get it back together right, and I used a file to put little marks on the outside so they don't get washed off in the many washings to follow.


Edited by machinist, March 16, 2013 - 09:40 AM.

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#4 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 01:43 PM

How are the tines? Lots of life left, or are they wore down?



#5 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 08:23 PM

Tines have very little wear.   Original paint is pretty good yet.   The bearings were rough, and the chain was not only stretched, it was made in Taiwan!   Not original.   So, maybe this thing has been apart before?   I dunno. 



#6 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 11:29 AM

I hate this thing.  Tore down the hydraulic motor to put seals in it and can't find any timing marks to put it back together again.   Have instructions with the seal kit, but they don't fit what I have.  The parts all fit, but without knowing how to time the ported shaft and rotor, I'm screwed and the tiller is looking a lot like scrap iron. 

 

I think I'll use the moldboard plow this year, just like many years before.   If I can find someone I REALLY DON'T LIKE, I'll sell him this tiller for whatever I can get.   I've done a lot of hydraulic work, but without the right parts and instructions, there is no saving it.


Edited by machinist, March 23, 2013 - 11:29 AM.


#7 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 02:15 PM

I hate this thing.  Tore down the hydraulic motor to put seals in it and can't find any timing marks to put it back together again.   Have instructions with the seal kit, but they don't fit what I have.  The parts all fit, but without knowing how to time the ported shaft and rotor, I'm screwed and the tiller is looking a lot like scrap iron. 

 

I think I'll use the moldboard plow this year, just like many years before.   If I can find someone I REALLY DON'T LIKE, I'll sell him this tiller for whatever I can get.   I've done a lot of hydraulic work, but without the right parts and instructions, there is no saving it.

This link may help >>> http://gardentractor...ydraulic-motor/


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#8 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 23, 2013 - 03:47 PM

Thanks for that!    Looks like those are the tractor drive motors.  I probably have a drive motor to do coming up, on a 1974 Case 446.   Don't have it running yet, though.   I found this instruction at White Hydraulics' site:

http://www.whitehydr...ctPages/RS.html    White made my tiller motor, but the model # on mine is strange.   Doesn't start with "200" like it should for this tiller.   Instead, the model # is RS013996.   That may be a casting # for the housing.   Stamped on the back end is "120 2" where a tag should be, and below that is stamped "GE 6".    No idea what those mean.

 

The instructions above are the same sheet that came with my seal kit.   The seals all fit, but the instructions are for something slightly different.   They describe timing the main shaft/wobble shaft (link, they call it)/ rotor for a non-reversible motor, and mine is bi-directional.  

 

Also, the kit and instructions use a hard thrust washer behind a roller thrust bearing.   That washer was missing from my motor, yet it had been running nicely--just leaking at a housing seal ring.   I tried it with the thrust washer, but no way was it going to close up, so I took it out.   Got it together nicely then.

 

I took a chance and timed it for a clockwise rotation motor.   I finally found the timing marks but they are very faint, and there are too many!   I chose the dot rather than the lines, since everyone else uses a dot for cams, timing gears, etc..    It rotates nicely, pumps oil either rotation, and sounds right.   Haven't tried it on the rototiller yet.    Hope to get back to this tomorrow.

 

I think it will work, but proof is in the trying.    It's just a PITA to deal with it not having the right instructions.   If I have trouble, I'll call their Rep for Indiana that I found on that site.   (Bet he'll love that!) :smilewink:


Edited by machinist, March 23, 2013 - 04:00 PM.

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#9 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 12:59 PM

I plugged the hoses into the PTO valve and shifted the valve to ON, then cranked the tractor with the starter, hydraulic motor not installed, but lying on the floor.  The motor rotates nicely and reverses properly when I shift the valve, so looks like this is working.   I put some paint on it and have it outside  letting it dry.   Another coat of paint and it will be ready to go back on the tiller with a new drive chain. 

 

The drive chain has to be installed, then the tiller main shaft adjusted endways to align the chain sprockets.  Then tighten locking collars on the main shaft bearings to keep it there.

 

I learned that timing the rotor and shaft assembly one way or the other only reverses the order of the ports.   It doesn't matter to me, since the PTO valve reverses the motor anyway.   No problem.


Edited by machinist, March 27, 2013 - 01:00 PM.

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#10 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 04:04 PM

I learned that timing the rotor and shaft assembly one way or the other only reverses the order of the ports.   It doesn't matter to me, since the PTO valve reverses the motor anyway.   No problem.

That's what I through, glad you confirmed it. :thumbs:


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#11 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted March 29, 2013 - 03:39 PM

I ran the tractor and tiller for another hour today, and noticed that the ammeter was showing it charging now?    After I quit, the battery reads 12.6 volts like it should!    :wallbanging:     Now what?     I guess I'll just go through it all looking to be sure the wiring is okay,   I did notice some moisture in the ammeter on the glass cover.    This thing had sat outside before I got it, so maybe there are some issues there.



#12 Case-Closed OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 04:11 PM

I have my tiller apart due to noisey bearings, and had to order the bearings and gasget, there is no drain plug on the chain case so I assume it is supposed to be a sealed unit. Does anyone know what the lubrication requirements of this critter are? I assue it must be 90 weight but since there is no drain plug I'm not sure. !!! HELP!!!



#13 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 10:33 PM

Yeah, the case is sealed but apparently only to keep dirt out. The chain was liberally smeared with pressure gun grease. I replaced my chain because it was stretched beyond the take-up adjustment (plate that moves the hydraulic motor on a swivel). The old chain still had plenty of grease on it, but tiller is 30+ years old, so I guess it works. I do think the chain had been replaced once, since it said "made in Taiwan", but still it was okay, just a bit long. I could have taken half a link out, but I had new chain on hand.

My case cover was sealed with clear silicone caulk, so that's what I put on it after the cleaning and painting.

#14 Case-Closed OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 12:06 AM

I was hoping to use something that is thicker than 90 weight but not quite grease and just shoot some in there once in a while so I will know there is still lube in the case.



#15 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2013 - 08:30 AM

I was hoping to use something that is thicker than 90 weight but not quite grease and just shoot some in there once in a while so I will know there is still lube in the case.

From the factory it is filled with just grease, considering how they hold up, it must work.






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