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Ford Lgt165 Closed Side Refurbish Pictures


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#1 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 12:04 PM

As I posted a few months ago, I picked up a new style Ford LGT165 while in Florida. Spent some time getting the front half of it cleaned up while we were down there for a while for the winter. As promised, here are some pictures and progress report....

 

The tinwork had a LOT of rust on it! The hood and side covers had heavy surface rust and pock marks on them. Structurally sound except in a couple small spots... But was pretty rough looking. I actually considered killing all the rust and clear coating it "as-is" to keep the "old" look, a-la Gas Monkey (Fast and Loud reality show) style, but I was worried about the rust coming back....

 

Before I post ANY pictures, I need to add a disclaimer! - This was all done in my garage in Florida with basic tools and equipment. Painting was done "open air" outside my garage shop using cheap paint equipment (but good paint). And this is meant to be a "runner" not a show queen. This ford has the removable engine mounts (my other one is the old style with the welded in pan), so it may be a candidate for an engine upgrade later - I might hang onto this one and use it, so I cut some corners and left a few blemishes. "Show quality" would have taken a couple more primer/prep cycles, and I would have brought it back to Tenn and done all the work in the paint booth..... Anyway....

 

Here are the hood and side panels before I started.

IMG00815-20130207-1723.jpg IMG00820-20130207-1724.jpg

 

Panels were sand blasted (using a hand held HF gun that is very temperamental...), wire brushed, and ospho'ed - did that cycle 2 times to get all the pitts cleaned up. Also straightened out all the bends and dings in the grill and replaced a couple missing/broken mounts on the side pans. Had to weld a new tab onto the inside of the grill (hold down for the headlights or plastic insert) - just ground off the old stub on the grill, took a bolt with the right thread, ground the head down and welded it in place where the stud had been. Heres a couple shots "in process" of rust cleanup.

IMG00834-20130209-1626.jpg IMG00843-20130210-1551.jpg IMG00836-20130209-1701.jpg

 

Then everything was shot with a 2 part epoxy primer. The epoxy primer seals the clean metal and provides good adhesion for bondo, paint, etc. I used epoxy as opposed to a self etching primer, since I was going to have to skim some of the pitts. It's also a tougher coat to use with rusted surfaces...  The side panels were good, but the pitts on the hood were too deep for primer, I had to skim coat some bondo on it to fill them in. A couple pics...

IMG00844-20130212-1114.jpg IMG00846-20130212-1114.jpg IMG00845-20130212-1114.jpg IMG00852-20130212-1140.jpg

 

Then a coat of basic primer and wet sand everything flat. Then reprime and wet sand again. That took care of 90% of the blemishes.  Again, if this was going to be a show finish, I would have done more, but I was ok with a few rough spots...I didn't have a good primer gun handy, or I could have used a poly-primer for a heavier fill with less work, but it wasn't too bad. When it's 60-70 degrees outside in wintertime, you don't mind working outdoors....

IMG00904-20130223-1719.jpg IMG00905-20130223-1719.jpg

 

So the tinwork is ready to paint. On to the seat pan....


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#2 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 12:33 PM

The seat pan was in bad shape! all rusted out in front of the seat, pock marks on the top surfaces, bad edges and rust throughs.... Here are some before pictures...

 

IMG00831-20130209-1320.jpg IMG00850-20130212-1140.jpg IMG00854-20130212-1222.jpg

 

Pitts and surface rust were dealt with same way as the hood and side panels. Some of the smaller holes I was able to weld up (I used a little Lincoln 110 volt mig welder) and grind flat, but the front edge under the seat and one of the seat mounting holes needed metal patches. I took a sheet of heavy guage metal and cut to fit. Used a big socket as a mold, bench vise and a metalwork hammer to get the right angles and curve to the bend areas. Then welded it in place from the underside where it won't be visible. This strengthened the deck a lot and I was able to salvage it. I'll redrill the seat mount holes later...

 

IMG00855-20130212-1420.jpg IMG00856-20130212-1420.jpg

 

Skimmed the surfaces and under the seat where the pitting was bad, and to blend in the patches. Dealt with the worst pitts in the metal edge of the pan, but this was another area I cut corners in to save time. With primer and paint, it will only show a waver edge in a few spots.... I also ended up with a couple bumps where the pan patch ended, but it won't show once the seat is back in place - but I know it's there.......Wet sand and set aside as ready to paint

 

IMG00899-20130223-1718.jpg IMG00900-20130223-1718.jpg

 


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#3 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 01:01 PM

Paint day!!!

We had some "bad weather" that delayed my final paint work. Since I was working outside, I had to wait for a calm, warmish day to paint. Still ended up with a couple small blemishes - a few kamakazee bugs and a sag (argh!!!!) but I can shave them out once the paint has cured. Painting "in the wild" sure makes me appreciate having the filtered, controlled environment of the paint booth that I normally work in! But it came out ok for a runner....

 

IMG00907-20130226-1658.jpg IMG00909-20130226-1659.jpg IMG00910-20130226-1659.jpg IMG00911-20130226-1659.jpg IMG00914-20130227-1519.jpg

 

Not perfect, but way better than they looked before I started! The blue is a little lighter than the original color - artistic license :D . I think it will look ok. The white of the seat pan is the same color though.

 

I did a pencil sketch (lay a sheet of paper on the surface and run a pencil across it to trace the bumps...) of the decals on the tinwork before I started, and I have lots of pictures and dimensions of them. Not sure how I am going to proceed with striping..... There are a couple places that sell replacement decals online. But these were really simple decals on this tractor. I may just get the adhesive sheet and cut them myself with an exacto knife..... Am even considering just using paint and airbrushing them on once the paint has cured. Tape off the blue and airbrush the white in, then do the same thing over the white with the red for the "ford" lettering. Will see......

 

Didn't take any pictures, but also surfaced and painted the seat pan back and base - they are blue as the original color scheme was.

 

So the tinwork is all done. On to the motor....


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#4 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 01:30 PM

Very nice work, Kenny got decals from member "olcowhand" I think when he re-did his. You did a nice job, way to go ! :thumbs:


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#5 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 01:40 PM

The motor spun by hand and had good compression when I got it.  But was not running and wasn't sure what to expect. I have done several of these kohlers before and they are simple, bulletproof motors. Easy to rebuild as well, so wasn't too worried about it if it doesn't run.

 

Anyway, I pulled the motor to clean it up and to get easy access to the front section of the frame. No oil leaks or external signs of damage. I cleaned the grime and grunge off it, wire brushed it and did a rattle can refinish with a ceramic engine paint. Not sure if it willl run at this point, but it looks nice....

 

IMG00827-20130209-1303.jpg IMG00881-20130219-1344.jpg IMG00895-20130222-1558.jpg IMG00896-20130222-1558.jpg

 

When I get a new machine, I just go ahead and pull the carb and clean it unless it is running good (that has never happened before :hitting_self_roller:.  I don't seem to buy turn key stuff....). This was one of the worst carbs I have ever seen though! Here is a picture of the float bowl. Check out all the gunk that was in the bottom of it! Aside from that, it seemed to clean up ok with some attention.

 

IMG00868-20130215-1639.jpg IMG00870-20130215-1639.jpg

 

Cleaned up the points and added a new condenser and it would fire on starter fluid (no tank attached), so I think it will be ok once I get it all back together.

 

Got the engine mounted back in the frame and redoing the wiring harness. It was all butchered up. All the safety switches and interlays had been spliced out. I need to bring some new parts down from Tenn (spares I had) to get it all wired up correctly, but should be ok then.

 

Flushed the tank and replaced all the gas lines, which had hardened up.

 

Initilly going to just get it running and evaluate the engine as is. Then can decide if it needs to be broke open and freshened up...

 

Last step to get up to the present state is the frame - well, the FRONT half of the frame...


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#6 Bmerf OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 01:41 PM

Looking good!  :rocker2:   Inspiring me to tear into the 195! Only I know there is no time to devote. (Lots of overtime=GT money) :smilewink:  Enjoy the nice weather and keep up the good work! :thumbs:


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#7 firstgen89sho OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 02:08 PM

Here is my "runner" refinish on my closed side 165

 

it's on one of the "other" sites though

 

http://www.mytractor...ad.php?t=199546


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#8 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 02:18 PM

Finally, while I had the engine out, I redid the front half of the frame.  There were some rust and scratches in the paint, so I cleaned everything up, cleaned up the rust and put on a coat of primer to level the low spots. I cheated on the front frame decals - I just taped them over and worked around them so I can still use them when the work is done. There was no rust bubbling under them so I think it will be ok.

 

IMG00826-20130209-1303.jpg IMG00878-20130219-1343.jpg IMG00885-20130220-1552.jpg

 

Then paint several coats with a rustolium black

 

IMG00886-20130220-1707.jpg IMG00887-20130220-1707.jpg

 

Before painting, I had to weld up one of the braces for the steering column. Looks like it had been poorly fixed before. Not sure what it originally looked like, but this will hold it steady. Didn't take an after picture of my weld though...

 

IMG00882-20130219-1346.jpg

 

So now everything (finishwise) forward of the dash panel is done. This is how it will sit for a while as we are back in Tennessee now (enjoying what I hope will be the last snow of the season today...).

 

I will have to pull the rear end assembly out of the frame - the brake "drum" is loose on the shaft. Not sure if it sheared the key or what. When that is out, I will paint the back half of the frame. Also need to replace the rear axle seals as they are leaking. Back tires are in good shape, so they are fine as is. I have replacements on the way for the front slicks - just a turf style tread.

 

I also pulled the mower carriage off and apart - several of the pins are worn. I ordered a 1 inch diameter bushing rod and will clean up the holes and shafts on the lathe and mill and cut custom bushings to fit the assembly, taking all the slop out of it. There were grooves in the carriage shaft where the mower deck mounts on it. I just welded them up and ground back to original diameter.The after picture isn't that great...

 

IMG00892-20130222-1100.jpg IMG00894-20130222-1156.jpg

 

The deck is rough, but fixable - haven't started on it either yet...

 

IMG00912-20130226-1700.jpg

 

Will post more when I get back down there and add some work to it. Hope you enjoy the pictures!

 

 

 

 

 


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#9 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 02:27 PM

That is really looking good, can't wait til it's all done.


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#10 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 03:54 PM

bow.png   Looking good!


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#11 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 05:21 PM

That's some nice work.  I will be watching for the finished product.  :thumbs:


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#12 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 06:13 PM

looks good so far getting me excited to tear into mine. keep the pics coming 


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#13 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2013 - 07:05 PM

Looks like you've got alot done, down there in the sun. I can imagine

what you're going through, yearning for your home shop. Looks

good so far.


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#14 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2013 - 08:44 AM

Back in Florida for a couple weeks to play with the grand kids, so had a chance to work on the Ford some more. Thought I would add an update...

My front PTO didn't work - was getting power to it, but no magnatism... So, of course when I went to pull it off the engine crank shaft, it was stuck solid.... I PB Blastered it, lightly heated it, soaked it, everything. No luck. Finally had to take a cutting wheel and cut it off. When the new one goes back on, there is going to be "anti-sieze" on the shaft in case I ever need it to come of again! Took a couple hours of work, but finally got the thing apart... Looks like the coil had shorted out - why it didn't work to start with...
IMG01028-20130401-1845.jpg IMG01046-20130406-1116.jpg

I went ahead and pulled the rear axle assembly so I could paint the back section of the frame, and clean up the hydro assembly. Dug out all the old grass, crud and stuff glued between the fins of the hydro pump. With the axle out, the rear section of the frame was easy to sand, ospho, prime and paint. Washed the axle assembly several times, then used an etching primer (aluminum housing) and paint. Some before and after pictures...
IMG01011-20130330-1404.jpg IMG01031-20130402-1543.jpg IMG01017-20130330-1405.jpg IMG01060-20130406-1120.jpg

I had to replace one of the rear axle seals, it was leaking. Shaft was fine so once I got a new seal (thanks to the guys here who helped me run one down..) it was an easy task to get the old out and the new in.

Once I got the points cleaned up and a new condenser, the engine started right up! Runs good and no smoke, so it might live "as is" for a while!

The back axle assembly is HEAVY. Worse still, it is TOP heavy. I jacked the back half of the frame up in the air and slid the axle underneath into place. Then lowered the frame down over the assembly, moving everything into place so I could get it bolted up.

My deck height screw assembly was rusted solid - the screw would not turn. And you can't get the assembly out of the frame without taking it apart! I ended up cutting the screw out of the shaft (cut it on each side) so I could get it out.
IMG01069-20130406-1529.jpg

Then I drilled and retapped the mount and turned a new screw shaft on the lathe. So now I have deck height control again...

Got the drive shaft back in, reattached all the hydraulics and linkages, filled the rear and was pleased to see the axles turn when the proper controls were moved. Also the hydraulic cylinder worked fine. No leaks or bad hoses, so looks like we are going good.

I'm sanding and repainting the rear wheels today, so then will get it back on it's own feet and ride it around the yard a little to make sure everything is good before putting the pan back on. I had replaced the front tires - both were bald and weather cracked and one didnt hold air.
IMG00927-20130309-1241.jpg IMG00928-20130309-1242.jpg IMG01012-20130330-1404.jpg

The back tires were good, so using them for a while as is.

Still to come; reinsulating the inside of the engine compartment, reinstalling the pan and tinwork, work on the mower deck and hanger assembly. Still need to finish making and reinstalling the 3 point components, and work on the rear pto install.....

Sorry there weren't many pictures this time! I'll update when I get it all back together with some before and after pictures!
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#15 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2013 - 10:57 AM

Insulation on the hood and sides are gonna make it run some awful hot ! It won't be bad in the winter months , but 90+ degrees it will! 






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