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Bolens 900 Engine Swap


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#1 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2010 - 04:12 PM

Heres the story from beginning to end on the 900 I have. I found the 900 at a community yard sale back around the 4th of July 2010. The guy was asking 150.00 for it and it came complete with high low trans, chrome(now rusty)hub caps, Wheel Weights, Snowblower. I was able to talk him down to 100.00 The catch was that it ran but not well. Heres a pic after i got it home from the yard sale.
020.jpg
It did run but it was smoking bad but it was black smoke so i figured it was a carb issue even though the guy said the engine was shot. It actually sat most of the summer until recently when i pulled it out of the shed and proceeded to check it out. I was able to find a rebuild kit for the carb from ebay. So I rebuilt the carb but it still smoked, not quite as bad but now it was more blue so i figured the guy was right the engine was shot. So I earlier in the year back in april or so, I was at an auction and i had stumbled upon a Bolens 1050 that also came with a snowblower and a 42" Deck. It was worn but it was complete. And I ended up winning it for 65.00. Heres a pick of that tractor without the front axle and wheels
HPIM1620.jpg
I brought it home and with some new gas, carb cleaning and a new ignition wire, it fired right up and didnt smoke at all, so I put it aside and decided to use it for parts for my other bolens tractors i have. Later in july I ended up selling the snowblowers from both the 900 and the 1050(the 1050's one was shot) And I sold them both to a guy out by altoona pa for more than what i paid for both tractors. Anyways, This past month I tore into the engine taking the cylinder head off and from what i could tell it was most likely rings and since i had a Tra 10d from that 1050 I decided To do my first engine swap on a tube frame tractor. I have vids of all this stuff and progress on youtube if you want to see them here is my youtube channel YouTube - Nascar3244888's Channel

Anyways All was going well i had the tra in the 900 and the wiring for the starter generator on and it worked but i had to figure out how to get spark and after messing with the coil that it most likely wasnt going to work. So I looked at how the spark worked on the s8d from the 900 origninally and it had an under flywheel coil, so after removing the flywheel and comparing the s8d to the tra 10d I found out that the s8d had a different bearing race/front seal cover than the tra. So I swapped the two around and everything worked out fine after a little messing around, and i now have spark using the s8d under flywheel coil on the tra. Then The carb that was on the tra, broke the flap for the throttle off behind the carb where the governor hooks up to it, so I put the rebuilt s8d carb on and when i was trying to start it gas was making the spark plug wet so i knew that with a little tweaking of the carb once i got it running since i couldnt on the s8d before because it ran so bad, that it should run once i got spark. which i got not much later when i did the under coil flywheel swap so all should be good now........WRONG:wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging: Upon trying to put the nut back on the crank to hold the flywheel on that I had F'd up the threads when I used the hammer:wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging:So now Im really pissed at myself for that:wallbanging::wallbanging::mad2::mad2::mad2::mad2::wallbanging::wallbanging::wallbanging: So Now that I have spark and gas I cant try to get it running because of those threads. So now im on the hunt for a die to try and fix them and hopefully it will work, but the hammer ruined the couple threads on the crank, and if i cant fix it, i will most likely rebuild the s8d but im hoping after all this sweat and blood i can get this going. Any help on the subject is greatly appreciated.......Brad......Here is my Youtube site Again I will have a vid posted soon that shows what im up against......YouTube - Nascar3244888's Channel

#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2010 - 07:20 PM

Unless someone can come up with another Idea I think your only shot is trying to get a tap for those threads.....

#3 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 05:21 AM

I think your only shot is trying to get a tap for those threads.....

:ditto:

#4 tractormike OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 06:29 AM

I have used a small triangle file to fix threads before. It depends on how bad your threads are mashed but I have had good luck if you take your time and use the file to restore the threads. Using a die to fix the threads would be better but if you can't find one the file trick may get you going again.

#5 jay nesbitt OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 12:26 PM

Hi NASCAR,
Ok, I watched your video and saw what has happened. First off, don't be too hard on yourself, we all have done stuff like that, but try to learn from your errors. I will try to give you a little more guidance on repairing your shaft.

1. IF you have enough extra length that is not needed you might use a recip saw or a hack saw and remove the worst of the egged/mushroomed crank. If you have any doubts about your ability to perform this without getting into trouble, I advise you to ignore this option. This will make the next step go faster.

2. Machinery (tool) houses sell a thread restoreing file, it is more expensive than a tri file (which I have used many times in this situation), but it is much easier and faster. The tri file will work. Start by using a dial caliper (or atleast eyeball) to try to get the shaft back round. This can be done with or with out the aid of 1 above. Use a flat bastard or a small handheld grinder. BE CAREFUL AND DON'T CAUSE WORSE DAMAGE. When you think the shaft is round (or out of round < .010), use the file starting close to the flywheel and work out. Start a little before the start of visible thread damage. File in the direction of removing a nut and file a few strokes and turn the crank CW as you file (being sure to overlap the file cuts). The beauty of the tri is that it cuts the thread deeper as you file. When you get to the end of the shaft, try the nut. Keep repeating until the nut will start and make a turn by hand. If you have a die, it will start before the nut will; you won't have to file as much.

Note: IF YOU MUST hammer on a threaded shaft, screw the nut on the shaft so the shaft and nut are even. This way, it will help to prevent the shaft from upsetting (swelling) and removing the nut will remove a small amount of upset. Also if you must hammer to remove a fly wheel (hard on everything) use a suitable pry bar to push the crank endplay away from the engine. If you do this , most fly wheels will only require 2 or 3 hits. Also, use a large enough hammer. Using a too small hammer will require more strokes and cause more swelling (ask how I know).

BETTER YET, BUY A $15.00 puller!!!

hope this helps,

Jay

#6 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 12:28 PM

Only thing I can say is to watch my video on youtube I just put up, Its a full update vid and a closeup of the threads on the crank, I can get the nut to start but then it tightens up and pops off if you try to put it on any further. It shows that I have spark using the under flywheel coil as well.

#7 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 12:35 PM

Hi NASCAR,
Ok, I watched your video and saw what has happened. First off, don't be too hard on yourself, we all have done stuff like that, but try to learn from your errors. I will try to give you a little more guidance on repairing your shaft.

1. IF you have enough extra length that is not needed you might use a recip saw or a hack saw and remove the worst of the egged/mushroomed crank. If you have any doubts about your ability to perform this without getting into trouble, I advise you to ignore this option. This will make the next step go faster.

2. Machinery (tool) houses sell a thread restoreing file, it is more expensive than a tri file (which I have used many times in this situation), but it is much easier and faster. The tri file will work. Start by using a dial caliper (or atleast eyeball) to try to get the shaft back round. This can be done with or with out the aid of 1 above. Use a flat bastard or a small handheld grinder. BE CAREFUL AND DON'T CAUSE WORSE DAMAGE. When you think the shaft is round (or out of round < .010), use the file starting close to the flywheel and work out. Start a little before the start of visible thread damage. File in the direction of removing a nut and file a few strokes and turn the crank CW as you file (being sure to overlap the file cuts). The beauty of the tri is that it cuts the thread deeper as you file. When you get to the end of the shaft, try the nut. Keep repeating until the nut will start and make a turn by hand. If you have a die, it will start before the nut will; you won't have to file as much.

Note: IF YOU MUST hammer on a threaded shaft, screw the nut on the shaft so the shaft and nut are even. This way, it will help to prevent the shaft from upsetting (swelling) and removing the nut will remove a small amount of upset. Also if you must hammer to remove a fly wheel (hard on everything) use a suitable pry bar to push the crank endplay away from the engine. If you do this , most fly wheels will only require 2 or 3 hits. Also, use a large enough hammer. Using a too small hammer will require more strokes and cause more swelling (ask how I know).

BETTER YET, BUY A $15.00 puller!!!

hope this helps,

Jay


Thanks alot for the advise there, I really appreciate it, Honestly though you really think it can be fixed?

#8 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2010 - 12:52 PM

It appears to be fixable. It seems just the first couple threads are bad along with the front mushroomed out. If you carefully cut off the first couple threads you will have just enough left for it to work...

Untitled.jpg

Edited by Bolens 1000, September 29, 2010 - 12:58 PM.
added pic


#9 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2010 - 06:51 AM

I GOT THE NUT ON!!!! I used a hack saw and cut off 2 threads filed the edge down a little, put everything back on and it still dont start. I check for spark sometimes it gets it and others not. So I am going to swap the wiring from the 1050 over and see what happens.....anything special I have to do with the wiring? I will make a vid sometime here and show you the process im making but its definitely getting closer to running!!!!!!! Thanks again Jay for the advise it worked out great!!!!!!

#10 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2010 - 07:32 AM

Glad to hear you got it on :dancingbanana:
The 1050's(TRA-10D) wiring was setup for the battery ignition system with the 12vt coil. If you are still going to use the Magneto not all of the 1050's wiring will work on it.

#11 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2010 - 08:03 AM

Here's the 900's original wiring diagram.
900 wiring.jpg
Make sure you check the timing and points gap....

#12 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2010 - 03:46 PM

i will be posting a vid soon on youtube, wait till you see what happened..............
YouTube - Nascar3244888's Channel

#13 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2010 - 03:55 PM

i will be posting a vid soon on youtube, wait till you see what happened..............
YouTube - Nascar3244888's Channel


I'm hoping its something good.....Posted Image

#14 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2010 - 05:54 AM

Ok, just viewed your video. You will be able to keep everything original without switching the dash.
I think the easiest thing to do would be to just let the magneto go and use the coil system.
I can take some pics of my setup if you want....

#15 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 04, 2010 - 02:04 PM

One more thing to try...
Since the TRA10D was run on the coil the timing may be off for running it on the magneto. Check and see if the engine is in time and if the points close when they are supposed to

Also Great to hear you got the flywheel nut on!




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