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Justplainjoe's Jd185 Hydro Restore

clicking the solenoid.

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#1 justplainjoe OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 08:10 PM

First problem is the clicking solenoid problem.

 

Second Is there a disconnect in the drive?  On shutdown the rear end locks and I can't push the tractor.

 

Thanks guys, this seems to be the most friendly forum available.

 

I'll start my dismantling and clean up tomorrow and take a few pictures to post if anyone is interested.

 

BTW I just found a 46" deck on CL it looks fairly clean, will be going to pick it up in the morning $35.00 + $20.00 gas to go get it.

 

Regards,  justplainjoe

 

 
 


#2 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 08:43 PM

That deck sounds like a great deal!

All I can do to help is bump the thread, so the JD guys will see it.

#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 08:51 PM

A clicking solenoid is usually low voltage. Either the battery is weak or a wire has too much resistance. Occassionally the engine is stuck or the starter is jammed to the flywheel. Good Luck, Rick



#4 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 09:00 PM

First off, on the 46 deck. Do you have the larger rear tires on your 185? Going from a 38" deck to the larger one, you have to have the larger (taller) rear rims and tires, and the deck hangers from the larger deck. They are different.

 

Mine had the small rear tires and the 38" deck: (notice the clearance between tire and fender)

 

treehouse 018.jpg

 

Larger tires and deck:

 

$(KGrHqF,!h8E-t(eddmdBPzoyj!LDw~~60_35.J



#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 09:01 PM


There should be a freewheeling lever somewhere on the back end that you move for moving the tractor by hand. It bypasses the hydro so the rear wheels will move. If you move the tractor with it in the run position it can damage the transmission. 

 Here is a photo of the valve location on the LT tractors. It should be similar. 

 

Attached File  LT freewheeling valve.pdf   119.7KB   189 downloads


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#6 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 09:06 PM

On the pushing it around. There is a lever between your feet on the center tunnel. That lever has to be held to the left in order to engage the 'freewheel' in the hydro. Do not drag a 185 around with that lever turned, it will ruin the tranny.

 

The lever must be held or bungeed, it does not lock in the free position.

 

In the picture of mine above, when you click on it to enlarge it, the lever is in the center, between the footrests, to the right of the Caution sticker.



#7 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 09:25 PM

I had a 165 that I remember doing a ignition update. A problem on almost all of these tractors. John Deere has a service bulletin available. And yes to freewheel push and hold the lever. Congrats!



#8 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 10:10 PM

Now, the starter 'click' problem.

 

With all the stops in the start circuit, you're getting a severe voltage drop before it gets to the solenoid. Brake switch, seat safety switch, pto safety switch, ignition. Lots of breaks in that circuit. After a while, corrosion gets the best of it. We could tear the whole darn thing apart, but have you looked behind the dash? You'd think they were planning on adding NASA guidance controls to it somewhere along the line.

 

Anywho, you need a cheap 4 prong 30 amp relay from the auto parts store. Lights, horn, accessory, etc, relay. Get one that has a metal mounting tab with one hole on the opposite end of the electrical connections. The numbers of the 4 connections on the other end of the one I used were numbered #30, #85, #86, #87. A good in-line 12 volt fuse and holder, and some crimp connectors will round out the supplies needed list.

 

There is a bolt just to the right of the top of the starter you can use to hang the relay, or the bolt that holds the dipstick tube onto the engine.

 

Now, to hook it up. The #85 terminal on the new relay is the ground. If I remember right, I grounded to one of the hood hinge bolts on mine.

 

The #30 terminal is the power in. Run a wire from the large nut on the solenoid, to the inline fuse, and then to the #30.

 

Now the 'fix'.

 

Remove the wire coming from the ignition switch to the outermost terminal on the solenoid. The one in the bottom center of this pic, with the black connector and red wire:

DSCN0021.jpg

 

On my 185, that wire was purple if I remember right. Set that wire aside, and now run a wire from the #87 terminal on the new relay to where that wire used to connect, on the solenoid.

 

The wire from the ignition switch that you pulled off from there, connect a new wire to that to run to the #86 terminal on the new relay.

 

That should do it.

 

Here's a better pic of the relay installed: 1zf7vq9.jpg


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#9 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 10:13 PM

I had a 165 that I remember doing a ignition update. A problem on almost all of these tractors. John Deere has a service bulletin available. And yes to freewheel push and hold the lever. Congrats!

You can find some info on that mod here and here.


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#10 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 09:56 AM

I take no credit for dreaming up the above posted fix. Hats off to Brad in IL for that one.

 

Joe, I sure hope you see that post about the larger deck/rear tires before you blast off.


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#11 hdg4400 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 11:21 AM

justplainjoe:

 

Good Luck fixing your 185. I can't help much technically, but it looks like a lot of others are jumping in with good advice.

 

I just checked and I have the Operator's Manual for the 185 (covers 130, 160, 165, 175, 180, and 185) and it's scanned it in as a PDF. It is about 9M. If you would like it, send me a Private Message.

 

Harlan


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#12 JRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 11:57 AM

The diagrams that Cat385B Posted are correct to fix the problem, But first you may take the battery to any auto parts store and have them do a load test on it to see if it a good battery, most all will do it free.

 For the free wheeling; I don't know on the 185 where the location for tor the free wheeling is but on my two JD's I have a metal rod about 3/16" somewhere around the tear plate between the wheels which has to be pulled out. Hope all of the above info. from others help.

 

 

Dick


Edited by JRJ, March 01, 2013 - 11:58 AM.

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#13 justplainjoe OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 06:03 PM

Hey ,A big thanks to all for the excellent help and information not to leave out or belittle the moral support. I can use all you want to give!  I am on my way to the auto parts store for the parts to solve the clicking solenoid problem. :thumbs:

And Cat 385B the 185 came with the big tires and the 48 / 46 ? deck installed, plus it has no rust, hard to believe.  The one I picked up today has almost new sheaves and wheels and blades.  My sheaves or some of them are a little beat up and the wheels looked like they had been gnawed on, so for a few bucks some gas and a couple of hours I have been lucky so far. Plus it is a very clean deck, I may end up selling it. I understand clean ones are in demand. I'll check the free wheeling knob again, I suspected that may be the knob but I was try ing to move it, not hold and push, last evening I checked the linkages under rear deck and sprayed them with WD 40, I am going out now and checking it. A little push and twist and hold and It worked! Baby is in the shop. 

 

I still need a cooling fan, I didn't know it had one until I read the thread where someone was having a hard time R&R ing one on his 185. Evidently mine has been missing for a while since the mounting threads on the pulley are rusted.  It's hard for me to see how much cooling can be had from an un-shrouded and un-ducted fan plus it has been operated in the hot temps of Tx. for most if not all its life, however I will replace it. Does anyone have or can someone point me to the initial deck adjustment procedures? Are they in the operators manual?  Is the JD operators manual worth buying, a couple are available on EBay, I would like to know if there is any relevant information or is it all how to check the oil and 'be careful stuff'?

Again REGARDS to a bunch of friendly guys willing to share their knowledge when I build up some I intend to pass it on. :wave:

 

I will be posting the before pics starting next week.

 

justplainjoe

 

 

 
 

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#14 hdg4400 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 06:49 PM

justplainjoe:

 

The Deck leveling procedures and other info about maintaining the tractor are in the OM. Obviously it's not a Service Manual, but I've found the OM for my 318 to be quite useful. Hopefully the 185 OM will be useful to you.

 

Cheers!  Harlan


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#15 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 09:27 PM

On the deck, a removal hint. Turn wheel all the way to the left, pull the deck out to the right.

 

When you get the deck in there, there is adjustment threads to the front draft arms. Use those to lower or raise the front of the deck. With the mower blades spun so they are parallel with the wheel track, adjust deck so rear tip of blade (back of tractor)  is 1/8" higher than front tip of blade.

 

On the two deck hangers, holding the deck to the frame of the tractor above, one is solid and one has an adjustment bolt on it. That one should be on the left. (non-discharge side) With the blades on the deck spun perpendicular to the wheel track, use that bolt to level the blades.


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