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#1 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 06:51 AM

My larger trailer has a 4 ft gate on the back it....that is too short to load anything unless I can7 find a hill to back up to. I have been considering buying some used trailer ramps and I have a concern (disclaimer-the ramps in question are not close to me to verify that is why I am asking here) that the spacing on the bars are too far for our garden tractors. The two sets of ramps I am looking at look to have 10-12" spacing .......I would suspect this spacing is pretty standard. Anyone use these type of ramps to load their gt's? Any issues?? I also have the terramite and the small yanmar so the heavier ramps will come in handy there.

 

ONe set is 5' tall and the other looks to be closer to 7' tall......my trailer sits fairly high, so I am probably leaning toward the 7' at this point......

 

ramps.jpg


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#2 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 07:00 AM

7ft will be better in my opinion. But the bar spacing might be questionable .

 

larryd


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#3 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 07:04 AM

If the guy still have the 7ft I do plan on buying them.....but that spacing part is worrying me. I know I could add grating to the top but geez the weight on the ramps would be getting pretty heavy at that point. I plan to "fit them on their side as a tail gait and have some slots made they will slide into and then I will secure them. I will have to lift them out and lay them down each time so I don;t want them to be 70 lbs a piece!


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#4 grnspot110 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 07:07 AM

I have a ramp-gate on my 16' trailer with similar sides, loading along the sides can be bumpy, but works OK.  Gate is 5', so for garden tractors, I added an 18" extension during show season, removes with three hinge pins.

 

Picture 256.jpg  

 

Picture 255.jpg

 

I changed to the ramp-gate because the original 5' ramps got too heavy to handle anymore!  ~~  Lowell


Edited by grnspot110, February 26, 2013 - 07:19 AM.

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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 07:35 AM

I bought a pair of the HF ramps for my needs. They are just over 6' long and are rated at 1000 lbs. I have no problem loading the FF or the Ford with them on the 16' trailer. Both these tractors weigh over 1000 lbs. each!


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#6 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 08:16 AM

If the ramps' bars are too far apart for the GTs just have some plywood to go over the ramps. I just use 2 - 6' x 2" x 10" ramps. They've been good for large frame Bolens. Rough cut wood will usually be cheaper than steel and lighter. Just watch out for knots. Good Luck, Rick 


Edited by boyscout862, February 26, 2013 - 08:16 AM.

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#7 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 08:30 AM

If the ramps' bars are too far apart for the GTs just have some plywood to go over the ramps. I just use 2 - 6' x 2" x 10" ramps. They've been good for large frame Bolens. Rough cut wood will usually be cheaper than steel and lighter. Just watch out for knots. Good Luck, Rick 

The only thing with using plywood for covers is they are slick when wet.


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#8 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 08:31 AM

On ebay are ramps shown from some company's that are steel or aluminum and diff lengths. Some have straps to go to truck/trailer rear to keep tight at top. Some are even folding. Not cheap, but nice.  My big trailer has dovetail and heavy ramps, maybe 5ft? not sure and built with angle about same as yours shown here. I drive GT's on it, but most of mine are bigger ones, no lawn tractors with small wheels.  They are mounted on a heavy Rod across the back and hold up with strap to trailer sides. I made a middle one for big tractors with narrow wheels like those others and keep them all together with a pipe across them in rubber from truck sway bar mounts. All together I cannot lift alone. I pull pipe out to lift seperately when alone. Some trailers have big wound springs to assist in the lift of them, I don't have those, Yet, anyway!  I would think 7ft would be way tall for this set-up. Would think some 2 x 12's with angle iron down sides and maybe underneath in center would work OK for most items. Put handles on the sides at each end to help in carrying. Would still be fairly heavy tho.


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#9 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 09:06 AM

I have 2 x 12 treated wood cut that I have used as well, but i got to load a golfcart on it this time and was not sure if it would hold the weight of a golf cart.....??

 

I did have an idea of buying the car ramps (change oil type) and then position them under the gate right where the cart or gt tires would hit.....thought that might work to get a better angle onto the trailer...


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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 09:15 AM

The car ramps may be too steep and cause a clearance issue in the middle, especially with a golf cart. The longer the wheelbase, the longer ramps you need.


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#11 grnspot110 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 09:22 AM

Mine has the coil springs on the hinge pins:

 

Picture 077.jpg

 

I later added garage door springs in steel tubing for more assist:

 

Picture 011.jpg

 

Picture 001.jpg

 

Picture 010.jpg

 

This trailer has had several changes over the years; it started out with 3500# axles to haul my JD 520.   At first it had 5' slide in ramps w/3" channel iron sides & 1-1/2" angle iron cross members.  Then when I brought Dad's 720D home, I had to upgrade to 6000# axles.  

 

GARDEN TRACTORS 043.jpg

 

Later, after cancer treatments, the ramps got too heavy to handle, so I had the builder replace the ramps with the ramp-gate.  Later adding the garage door springs.

 

Now, since I don have the big tractors anymore, a landscape trailer would suit my needs better, but I probably won't change.  ~~  Lowell

 


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#12 grnspot110 ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 09:32 AM

My 10' trailer (built by the same trailer company as the 16', Woodworth Mfg.) originally had 5' steel ramps:

 

GARDEN TRACTORS 482 - Copy.jpg

 

They store on the sides & hook into a channel on the back of the trailer.  Due to the weight, I changed to a tri-fold aluminum ramp from the ebay seller;

 

HPIM3868 (Custom).JPG

 

Lowell

 

 


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#13 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 10:18 AM

Another good choice are those ramps with the long arch.  I've never had a pair, but I worked with a set at one of the shops I worked at.  They are handy since the arch allows a low clearance machine to load at a shorter slope.  Lawn mower decks can load that way.

 

Ben W.


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#14 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 10:18 AM

I have a pair of the "car" ramps in 4' length, I too have needed to use to load my GT's on my trailer. Thankfully I'm fairly low to the ground, but I cannot load tractor with deck on it as it will hang up,need to be longer. You are right about spacing, I have always had to put ramps in position where tires was basically on some of the long flat angles of ramps loading tractors. I have thought about welding some smaller, thick angle in between so I could use them better without adding a ton of weight, but I have some 6'- 2x8's I use now, but yea, they can be slick as snot if they get wet. Actually even loading a car with large tires the spacing is a real pain as the tires want to suck down in between. I have so really heavy mesh I was going to weld on top, but they are stinkin' heavy as it is. I was using a set of 2x12's until my Sears with loaded ags and wheel weighs slid off them while loading int he snow and broke right in half. I did not have any grip tape or any kind of traction aid and they were painted.....my own stupid fault as they handled weight just fine. Tractor with all weight winch and snow plow was probably about 1100-1200#'s.


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#15 WHdbJD ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 01:48 PM

I have five foot ramps like the ones pictured in the original post. They are too short for loading my pickup, but

work fine for the trailer which sets much closer to the ground. If the spacing between crossmembers is too

wide for small tires, I have a couple 2x6 boards I lay on ;the ramps.


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