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Help Ignition Problems


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#16 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted February 25, 2013 - 11:22 PM

Look at the ignition switch in the mf14 diagram. See how it has an I term going to a coil. That is the style of switch that puts 12v to the ignition coil in the picture. I've never seen a switch with an M and an I term both so......hopefully if you have an M you've got the right one. Maybe make a list of all the term markings on the switch. It shows the crank circuit on the tractor going through 2 safety switches.



#17 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 01:38 PM

After looking at both diagrams and what i've connected on the tractor, i'm quite a bit off. My white kill needs to connect to the yellow chassis and the purple rectifier needs to be removed and I need to run a separate wire for that to the starter lug.

 

I will do this later and update.

 

Thanks all for the great help! Always helps to have a second, third, fourth and more sets of eyes!



#18 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 07:39 PM

Well damn. Not only does it not work, but something is wrong with the PTO clutch. Have 12V going to the clutch lead but doesn't click anymore. Worked first time I started the engine. Arergghhhh!!!

#19 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 10:08 PM

If you've got power going to the pto and it doesn't work, check the ground. What else doesn't work, the crank? Post the letters that are actually on the switch you have. I don't think the rectifier should run straight to the battery.



#20 frenchy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 10:15 PM

The PTO worked and then stopped. I thought I verified the ground was good, but maybe it's not.

 

The switch has:

      S

A        ?

M       G

 

Here's where everything goes:

S - Black to Starter tang

A - Red constant to starter

?- Green to Ammeter

M - Blue to PTO and Yellow goes nowhere yet (used to be the coil)

G - White to lights


Edited by frenchy, February 26, 2013 - 10:23 PM.


#21 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 11:11 PM

Go back to the Massey diagram. Notice the power comes from the sol/bat post, through a fuse, through the ammeter and to the switch. That should probably go to ? (normally B) on your switch. Unplugged from the switch, your green wire should be hot. That's the only power feed you need at the switch. With the switch off and unplugged, ohm check the M and G term. Is there contiinuity? Turn the switch on and it should go open? By rights, it should be. Neither of those 2 should have continuity to any other term regardless of switch position. If the switch is good, the G should go to battery ground and M to the kill wire from the mag. The A term should have continuity with the ? term with the switch on and open with it off. The wires for the pto, regulator, and lights would go to that terminal. See how close this gets us.






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