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Bush Hog St-32 Tiller Restore


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#31 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2013 - 04:41 AM

Glad things are coming apart fairly easily.



#32 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2013 - 08:12 AM

Looks like an interesting design and it appears you are well on the way to getting her fixed up and going.  Waiting for further progress.



#33 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2013 - 06:32 PM

I didn't make much progress at all today.  Went to town early, then just couldn't get in the groove.  Then company came too, and after that I couldn't get back on track at all.  I did manage to get the tine shaft welded back together, then I just used an angle grinder to smooth the weld so the bearing would pass over the joint.  I also got the center tine section welded back into 1 piece.  Then I took the gearbox apart, and once I did I discovered there was a use for the hole in the shaft where it broke.  It was for a collar that a roll pin went through to sit against the tapered bearing.  I just wonder if a cold roll 1" shaft would be strong enough to build a shaft from?  Needs to be 1" x 13 1/2" long and I don't think I have anything that long at the moment.

  Oh, I do have the main body section of the tiller in the E-tank.  I let it run on my welder at 40 amps for about 2 hours.  The tank has up to 2" of foamy black crap on the top.  I took the welder off, then put my small 6 amp charger on it for the night.  The tub wasn't quite deep enough for the entire part, so tomorrow it will get flipped to do the other end.



#34 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2013 - 06:55 AM

I know how those days are. I'm itching to do something, but the weather is not cooperating. So, are you going to have to make a collar. I can't say on the shaft, not enough metal knowledge. Glad to hear the e-tank is cooking!



#35 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2013 - 07:57 AM

Dan, I think you'll be OK with cold rolled shafting. It's not as if you're

actually going to stick this thing in the dirt, right? :D



#36 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2013 - 09:44 AM

I know how those days are. I'm itching to do something, but the weather is not cooperating. So, are you going to have to make a collar. I can't say on the shaft, not enough metal knowledge. Glad to hear the e-tank is cooking!

 

No, the collar is still good, and the roll pin was still in it.  The shaft broke in the center of the hole, so it just fell out of the collar when it broke.

 

Dan, I think you'll be OK with cold rolled shafting. It's not as if you're

actually going to stick this thing in the dirt, right? :D

 

Will....that's how I feel about grade of shaft.  I "may" drop it in the dirt once, but in all honesty, it may never see dirt again.  If I wanted, I likely could just weld this shaft back up, re-drill the hole & just use it.


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#37 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 24, 2013 - 11:19 AM

Daniel, You can go back with Stress-Proof Shafting, don't remember the alloy.  It's tougher then cold rolled and is used in a lot of industrial drive shaft applications.


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#38 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2013 - 04:09 PM

Well, when I went to the steel place near where I got the clear roofing, I completely forgot to pick up a piece of 1" shafting!   :wallbanging:

  So today I decided since I likely would never actually till with it, I welded the OE shaft back up.  Turned out it had already been broken & rewelded!  Not a pretty job, but would hold for just running the tiller to show it works.  You can see in the drilled hole that my weld didn't quite make center of shaft.  Oh well! 

 

DSC00084.JPG

 

  I'm usually not one to make do with a job like above, so after some digging, I found a piece of chrome plated cylinder ram rod that's been tossed around here for years.  It was 1" just like I needed.  So the rewelded OE is tossed, and I machined this shaft for the gearbox.  Let me tell you, this stuff is hardened pretty good for the first 1/16", and still dang tough after that.  Barely got the keyways cut in, but finally got it done after pretty much ruining a mill cutter.  This should be a grade A shaft for this purpose.  

 

DSC00085.JPG  

 

  Got it bolted up and proper shims to get the bearings set right.  All I need to do now is clean it all up, then install new seals which I have to get yet.  National seal #470120.  Bearings & races are like new, so likely were replaced when they last got into this box.

 

DSC00086.JPG

 

I also turned a recess into the shaft hub to press the new gear into, then welded it up.

 

DSC00087.JPG

 

I think that will be it for today, but I am pleased with my progress!


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#39 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2013 - 04:44 PM

That new shaft should be plenty strong. We've been using piston rod material for years

for various pins.

Good progress made.



#40 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2013 - 12:30 PM

No pics of further progress, but the main body came out of the e-tank a few days ago and scrubbed it up.  Need to take it to Fred's as his blast cabinet is large enough to give it a light media blasting.  Today I did manage to get the 3 new gearbox seals installed & the gearbox completed.



#41 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2013 - 12:55 PM

Sorry I missed the update on the shaft. You will never break that one, super great shafting material.


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#42 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2015 - 08:52 AM

Daniel looking at the ST-32 manuals, you have the 1st version with the round cover- looks like they made "two" more versions after yours. The second and third version had a more squared cover. Also looks like they made a change to the gear box and how they set up the top bushing and shaft. I picked up some nos parts and there were two ST-32 bushings in one of the bags. Looking at the diagrams, these bushings were on the second version, but not on the third version. I will get some pictures posted of what I am describing.

#43 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 25, 2015 - 08:56 AM

I was just looking at that tiller yesterday in it's pile of parts. Hoping to have it finished by plow day. I thought it to be early.
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#44 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2015 - 09:14 PM

Here is a picture of the bearing assembly. Did you have these in yours?ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422324774.169242.jpg


Hey I also got the much needed cable that goes from the PTO foot pedal to the front pto. It's in the bottom right hand corner of the picture.

#45 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2015 - 09:18 PM

Mine had round flange mounted Ag type sealed bearings like the one above right in your pic, and they looked to be original 3 bolt mounting holes. If there had ever been 2 bolt flanges, it would show. 


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