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Bush Hog St-32 Tiller Restore


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#16 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 09:44 PM

I have a possible source on the 10 tooth, what diameter shaft?

 

So you need a 10 tooth, for 1" shaft with weld on hub?



#17 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 09:48 PM

So you need a 10 tooth, for 1" shaft with weld on hub?

 

 

Yep, a mighty tough order to fill huh!



#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 09:49 PM

Nope, it's 20:1 we need, right? :smilewink:

 

Something like that!  :bigrofl: (inside joke)



#19 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 06:17 AM

I'm wondering if the dual drive was meant to strengthen the tyne shaft. It might have been an attempt to improve on the more typical centre drive for the tynes. I looked at my usual supplier for sprockets and hubs and 12 teeth is as small as they go for a weld on hub in #40. That's likely why they used a single machined hub/sprocket. They were dealing with trying to get the chain drives as compact as possible while still having large enough chain and sprockets to deal with the power and have a long lifespan. This is an interesting restore Daniel. I'm looking forward to seeing it come together.



#20 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 06:36 AM

Would a sprocket like one of these work ? Might have to machine the shaft .

http://www.gokartsup...om/sprocket.htm


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#21 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 07:55 AM

Can you use the 10 tooth from here  https://www.surplusc...ns&keyword=PH40 and just bore it out and cut a new key way? Good Luck, Rick


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#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 09:42 AM

Would a sprocket like one of these work ? Might have to machine the shaft .

http://www.gokartsup...om/sprocket.htm

 

Thanks Al, I think one of those will work, and it's 10 tooth, so I'd only have to repair the one, leaving the other side OE.   :thumbs:

 

I should be able to machine the OE hub body for this sprocket's hub to slide into & weld in place.

 

sprocket1.jpg

 

3/4" SPROCKET 12 TOOTH #41/420 #40,41,420 CHAIN

#23 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 09:44 AM

Can you use the 10 tooth from here  https://www.surplusc...ns&keyword=PH40 and just bore it out and cut a new key way? Good Luck, Rick

 

 

Wow....even better!!!!!!   Just $4!  Thanks so much guys!  I hadn't taken/had the time to do any searching yet, but you've done it for me!  :thumbs:


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#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 09:50 AM

Glad the guys found something usable for you, Daniel. With your abilities to rework either one, you should be able to fix it right up.



#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 12:29 PM

No pics yet, but took a few minutes before lunch to get the old bearings off the tine shaft.  I just used a .045 cutter wheel on my angle grinder to slice them on one side, then use a hammer to break them up.  

  As to the OE 10 tooth drive sprockets....turns out once I cleaned one up that all they are is a 1/2" bore 10 tooth sprocket welded to the shaft hub!  So I'm ordering a pair of 10 tooth 1/2" bore sprockets from Surplus Center, along with a 10' roll of chain, a few connector & half links, and they have the bearings I need for the tine shaft, all at SUPER prices!   Just confirmed the order!   :dancingbanana:


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#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 01:42 PM

That's great news, Daniel! You might even get to try it out this spring!



#27 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 03:05 PM

Good to hear you got some  sprockets coming .  Know you said you might not use this only for show but I got to thinking of what the guys here about breaking the gears on my PK  tiller . Anyway it would be nice if you could drill the sprockets and shaft and use a shear pin drive instead of welding , it might save the gearbox if it was ever used in a rocky area



#28 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 03:32 PM

Good to hear you got some  sprockets coming .  Know you said you might not use this only for show but I got to thinking of what the guys here about breaking the gears on my PK  tiller . Anyway it would be nice if you could drill the sprockets and shaft and use a shear pin drive instead of welding , it might save the gearbox if it was ever used in a rocky area

 

 

It is going to have a slip clutch installed on it.  I actually have a NOS OE Bush Hog pto slip clutch that I got from my good buddy Scott (sascr).  It is for use with the D4-10 pto, and that's what I want it to mount to anyway.  I'll have to build a new tiller hitch bracket for this tiller to fit the D series though.  This tiller as used on a JB tractor, which uses belts for the rear pto, which were supposed to act as a slip clutch.  But twin belts will put through a lot of power before they slip.  The OE slip clutch is adjustable, so I can set it to slip easy enough to never fear damage should I use it & snag a rock.


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#29 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 04:01 PM

I'm glad you found out what you needed. :thumbs:  I called my bearing house and got a price on a 10t. X 1/2" bore and was going to bore it.

 

Can't wait to see how it turns out ! :D


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#30 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 08:11 PM

Today I got one of the large sprockets off the tine shaft that I had to cut in half to remove.  Had to put a little acet. torch heat to it while in the press, then it moved easily.  I won't have to remove the other sprocket on the other shaft half, as I can slide all the bearings & stuff in place from one end after welding the shaft back together & turning it true on the lathe.  Turns out the broken gearbox shaft failed due to it having a hold bored into it in a spot that the hole served no purpose.  This shaft must have been used in other applications where the hole did serve a purpose.






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