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#91 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 12:50 PM

She made her maiden voyage today after all I've done so far.
I had to pick up my HT-23 that was left at the place I got the Cherry firewood last week. And I went to Lowes to pick up two 2 x 12 x 16' & three 2 x 10 x 10' pressure treated lumber for the sides.

Notice the cardboard under the tractor? I did not want any oil dripping on my new oak deck. At least not till I seal it first.

100% chance of rain tomorrow, a great day to do the sides.

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#92 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 12:54 PM

Bolens kind of just fills that right up, doesn't it?



#93 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 01:46 PM

Bolens kind of just fills that right up, doesn't it?

Yes it does, and the bucket was sitting on the tongue to keep some weight up front, next time I'll load it backwards.

I just cut all the lumber I got to length, and boy is it nice stuff. Not sure why, but it's the driest pressure treated lumber I've ever worked with.
Lowes is my new place to buy lumber if its all like this.

Lowes is about 3 miles further then HD, but HD had all twisted sister 2 x 12's so I went to Lowes.

Anyone know if regular construction adhesive is good for glueing PT wood to stainless steel ? Maybe something better to use. I'm open to ideas if anyone has any suggestions.

I have a crapload of course thread # 12 stainless screws, but I'd rather not use a lot of them. It's 18 Gauge stainless sheet metal.

Edited by NJKen, March 11, 2013 - 01:48 PM.


#94 Blind Ref OFFLINE  

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Posted March 11, 2013 - 03:53 PM

Can't blame you for placing cardboard under the tractor. It really has turned out good. Bet you are ready to do another trailer. I just happen to have one

that I will let you loose with. :D



#95 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 11:09 PM

I've been kinda lazy on the trailer project the last few days. Some paying work stuff popped up. <br><br><br>
Tonight I started on the 20" 18 gauge Stainless sides. <br><br>
They had to be cut to length, and notched were they would be hitting welds that hold the fenders on. I cut everything with a good stainless cutting wheel, but it still was tough and wore it down quick. (See pic 1) <br><br><br>
Pic 2 shows the notches, that will be hidden thankfully. Pic 3 shows the welds I had to notch for. <br><br><br>
I attached one of the pressure treated boards to the SS using #12 pan head SS screws. Pic 4 - 7 <br><br><br>
I remembered where this SS sheet metal came from. About 6 years ago I was installing new exhaust hoods in a bunch of Papa Johns pizza stores. They sent a 20" hood skirt and the job needed a 24". They said to toss it, that it wasn't worth shipping back. OK, it came home to my pile of other SS mistakes, and extra stuff they often shipped. <br><br><br>
The SS screws came from new Store installs. They send a hardware package that is loaded with goodies. All stainless hardware. We use less then a 1/4 of it for a typical new store install. I save every bit of it !! I'll never run out of 1/4 - 20 bolts, nuts and washers. Various sizes of the screws pictured. <br><br>
Caulk ? Tons of it. All good food grade silicone, since it's used in food prep areas. It's just a higher quality then the stuff you buy at HD or Lowes. <br><br><br>
Ok, I've rambled on enough for tonight.

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Edited by NJKen, March 13, 2013 - 11:11 PM.


#96 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 06:47 AM

Hope you don't blind someone with all this shiny stuff! :bigrofl: Should look nice for some time!


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#97 pigsitter OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 07:31 AM

That stainless is really gonna set that trailer apart from the rest. It's really surprising the amount of hardware a guy can accumulate from the goodie bag leftovers on new equipment installs,the installers at work have learned I won't turn down any leftover hardware when offered.


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#98 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 05:16 PM

I was just asked to haul my trailer to California !! To be on the next episode of "Pimp My Trailer"

I just have to add some more Bling first.

It's starting to look "Ghetto" now, isn't it ?

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#99 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 07:28 PM

Take it to Camden now, Sunshine! Nice knowin' ya!



#100 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2013 - 09:04 AM

Brainstorm !!

My son stopped by last night and suggested that I fill all the joints in the wood decking with this stuff. http://www.tremcosea...-DS-English.pdf

I really like the idea and think it will stop the cracks from filling with dirt, water and what ever else can get into them. Plus this stuff expands and contracts. I used it many years ago when I did commercial pool work to seal joints in concrete pool decks. It's tough stuff once cured.

They use it in parking garages, sidewalks and streets. I can't see no reason that it would not work for my application.

Any thoughts ?

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#101 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2013 - 09:53 AM

Not going to let this go, are you Mr. OCD? Fine. You have to prime the metal if you put it on, it will pull back from bare steel, and create a pocket in there. Water will leech through the wood and get trapped between your crack caulk (that's right, I said crack caulk) and the steel. It might rust faster than last time. Maybe not, I talk out my butt sometimes. I'm just going by the instructions and the MSDS sheet.

 

It has Toluene Diisocyanate in it. Apply it outdoors, with gloves and a mask at the lowest temp recommended for application, probably about 50 degrees. Clean up is with mineral spirits, but be very careful dissolving that stuff. Toulene Diisocyanate is dangerous when inhaled. Most IDLH levels on dangerous chemicals is around the 100 up to 500 ppm (parts per million) range. The IDLH on this crap is 2.5 ppm. Oh! Bonus! It's also a known carcinogen.

 

Okay! Have at 'er, Sunshine!

 

 

BTW? IDLH = Immediate Danger to Life and Health!

 

Have a nice day!



#102 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2013 - 10:33 AM

Oops, correction! The SSL variant of the product shown above is a limestone version that uses Isophorone Diisocyanate, and that's much safer to use.



#103 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2013 - 11:11 AM


Not going to let this go, are you Mr. OCD? Fine. You have to prime the metal if you put it on, it will pull back from bare steel, and create a pocket in there. Water will leech through the wood and get trapped between your crack caulk (that's right, I said crack caulk) and the steel. It might rust faster than last time. Maybe not, I talk out my butt sometimes. I'm just going by the instructions and the MSDS sheet.



It has Toluene Diisocyanate in it. Apply it outdoors, with gloves and a mask at the lowest temp recommended for application, probably about 50 degrees. Clean up is with mineral spirits, but be very careful dissolving that stuff. Toulene Diisocyanate is dangerous when inhaled. Most IDLH levels on dangerous chemicals is around the 100 up to 500 ppm (parts per million) range. The IDLH on this crap is 2.5 ppm. Oh! Bonus! It's also a known carcinogen.



Okay! Have at 'er, Sunshine!





BTW? IDLH = Immediate Danger to Life and Health!



Have a nice day!

OCD is my middle name at times !!

I'd like to think this stuff will work great. One thing is for certain, I will never let the trailer rust out like before. It will be covered and or tilted when not in use, so it being wet for weeks on end won't happen like it has for it's first life.

And thanks for all your thoughtful research into that stuff Scott, your the man.

I called my cousin about it, he used to work for a commercial glass installation company, they used Vulkem to seal between metal window frames and the stuff lasted darn near forever. It's not the same exact stuff but close, it was a thicker consistency for vertical use.

I'm headed to a machine shop to hope fully get some 18 gauge 2 x 2 angles bent into a sorta U shape to cap the wood/stainless sides. I have a ton of it, and it's going to be very functional.

Yes, I've past being anal with this project.

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Edited by NJKen, March 15, 2013 - 11:35 AM.


#104 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2013 - 03:06 PM

"It's starting to look "Ghetto" now, isn't it ?" >>>>>>  No, not at all :bigrofl: :bigrofl:

 

Adding that Bling thinking you might have a little Jersey City in you :D

 

P.S. I vote to leave the crack alone/open, no chalk , wood and metal have different expansion rates  :thumbs:



#105 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 05:08 PM

It's getting there !! If I'd only stop adding stuff.

Last night & this afternoon I added some SS edging. No splinters from the edges of the boards. (Happened the first time)

Had some 2" x 2" x 60" SS angles laying around, took them to a big HVAC guy near me and they bent a 3/8" return on one side. CHEAP !! They did 7 pieces and charged me 20 bucks. See first pic.

2nd pic is what I covered with them.


The rest of the pics are the end result of the installation. Mitered joints were a PIA !! Lots of grinding to get them close. All the joints will be welded closed once I take the trailer to a friends who is set up to weld stainless. Not only for looks, but to keep water out, and to eliminate sharp edges.

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