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#31 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 11:28 AM

For Scott, Look ma no hands. : )

I'm a "levitation expert" now, if I only had a "lovely assistant" you busy ?

Pay no attention to that 1/4" cable in the 2nd picture.

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#32 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2013 - 11:48 PM

Update

Not much got done today.

But I did get a coat of primer on one side of the new steel bed.

Then I tackled the troublesome pivot points where the trailer tilts for loading. For the past few years its been real hard to tilt up and down.

Problem found, rust and corroded bolts. Go figure. They are 3/4 x 3-1/2" grade 8 with nylon lock nuts. They would not loosen up even with my heaviest impact gun. Tried a 36" pipe wrench with a cheater extension, still no go. I used a cutting wheel on the grinder to cut the nuts off. Then a 20 lb sledge to beat the bolts out. Bolts, nuts and spacer washers were badly rusted.

Ordered new bolts, nylon lock nuts and a 1/16" thick piece of Teflon from McMaster. I'm doing away with the steel spacer washers and making washers from the Teflon. They will never rust and it should be trouble free for many years.

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#33 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2013 - 12:30 AM

Ken, Don't you have a swimming pool. I think it would have made a great E-tank for the whole trailer.

 

seriously, Are you going to use Stainless bolts when you put the tilt back together? It will stop the corrosion problem in those joints.


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#34 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2013 - 01:01 AM

No stainless in grade 8 bolts that I'm aware of.

Between the Teflon and good grease, I'm sure it will be fine for many years.

I'm going to treat all the rust with that stuff I ordered today, then undercoat the heck out of it.

I've had the trailer since 1999 and used and abused the heck out of it. Now that I see what can happen, I can assure you it will be checked often.
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#35 DougT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2013 - 08:04 AM

Ken, Don't you have a swimming pool. I think it would have made a great E-tank for the whole trailer.

From what I heard, it doesn't hold water!


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#36 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 27, 2013 - 10:29 PM

I'm done, how does she look ?


Ok I'm FOS !!

I'm at a stand still. My welder guy, can't make it till Saturday !! And the rust converter isn't coming till tomorrow. All the new steel is primed and ready.

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#37 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 10:00 PM

Any painting tips for rims with the tires still on ? Or should I just bite the bullet and take the tires off the rims ?

A Pre thanks for any suggestions.

#38 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2013 - 11:56 PM

Any painting tips for rims with the tires still on ? Or should I just bite the bullet and take the tires off the rims ?

A Pre thanks for any suggestions.

 

Well, I saw it done once and I don't know the type of paint...  But a guy I worked with used a real heavy application of Armor-All to  the sidewalls of his trailer tires, masked with discs of cardboard and then shot the rims.  Whatever kind of paint it was, the overspray came right off with a damp rag (light solvent maybe?). 

 

(Test unseen area first, avoid excessive treats and wire brush between meals.)



#39 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 04:58 AM

I usually just break the bead loose, cover the tires with paper, and paint the wheels. Then you don't have to worry about scratching them putting the tires back on!



#40 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2013 - 03:48 PM

I usually just break the bead loose, cover the tires with paper, and paint the wheels. Then you don't have to worry about scratching them putting the tires back on!

works for me too



#41 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2013 - 02:25 PM

The welder is here !! The welder is here !!

I'll be busy once he's done.

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#42 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2013 - 03:14 PM

Hooray for welders.



#43 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2013 - 03:32 PM

Looks like a well built trailer.  The extra long A-frame hitch section is a big plus.



#44 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2013 - 08:18 PM


Looks like a well built trailer. The extra long A-frame hitch section is a big plus.

Daniel, this trailer is built like a tank. I did a lot of research when I bought it in 1999. And I noticed many equipment rental places and big road work contractors used the Towmaster brand.
Plus it holds a lot of weight for a single axel trailer. I bought this one from a Vermeer trencher & stump grinder dealer. They are also a Towmaster dealer. They ordered all their trailers with the optional oak deck. Because they mainly sold trailer to those that bought grinders and trenchers. Best to have their teeth rubbing on wood then steel during transportation.

Besides is being built so well, it has a very low angle when tilted for loading. My scissor lift has to have a low angle or you need a few guys to help it up the slope.

The only thing I would have done over again, I would have bought the next size bigger, this one only has 54" in-between the fenders. I've taken many a deck off a tractor that I've bought or transported.

Here is a photo of the new 6/4 white oak I'm using over the new steel pan. I just brought it in from my covered lumber pile and it's about 60 % dry. This was bought last year fresh cut. It's DENSE stuff. My new worm drive with a new blade walked rite through it though.

It's cut to length, hopefully it will be installed tomorrow night. A BIT overkill, but I'm bolting it down with 1/2 x 2-1/2" carriage bolts. I have a few hundred of them that I got for free.

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Edited by NJKen, March 02, 2013 - 10:30 PM.


#45 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2013 - 09:38 PM

Looks like a great trailer rebuild. You are doing an awesome job!

 

 

 

 

 

Geno


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