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#1 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 11:33 AM

I've started it !! I've only been putting this off for over a year.


1999 Towmaster 5 x 10 tilt trailer. I bought it brand new when I bought my scissor lift to haul it from job to job. It's been used for everything from hauling firewood, scrap metals, tractors etc.


It's tired, some holes rusted through the 10 gauge steel bed, the tilt pivot point is super stiff and it's hard to tilt.


Yesterday it was backed into the garage and I spent hours knocking off the loose rust. I also took off all the decals.


It's getting a new 10 gauge steel bed (pictured) and new white oak 6/4 planks over the steel. 


More pics and info will be posted as I go. I'm headed out now to get some rust converter and a gallon of black enamel paint.

Mods, if there is a better place for this thread, please feel free to move it.

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#2 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 11:44 AM

Here are a few pics of the trailer loaded with some BIG oak rounds last year. <br><br>
The 2 x 12 pressure treated sides have been removed and will be replaced with new ones covered with stainless steel sheet metal. Got the SS from a job I did the demo on a few years back.

EDIT: Sorry about the sideway pics. Not sure why that happened.

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Edited by NJKen, February 21, 2013 - 11:46 AM.

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#3 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 12:40 PM

That's a beefy trailer. You not worried about steel rusting out under the wood planks? i had thought about doing that to mine, just go over with wood, but figured water under the wood would rust it out real quick.

 

I have a 5x8 and a 6x16 that both need redone, my big trailer has some "foot" size  holes in the metal floor, not sure how those happened :hitting_self_roller:


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#4 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 01:49 PM

Ahh! Another trailer refurbish thread. Sounds like something good to follow long with! Go, Ken, go!


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#5 UncleWillie OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 02:44 PM

We are gonna have to start a trailer forum.


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#6 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 02:51 PM

We are gonna have to start a trailer forum.

:bigrofl: :bigrofl: Just ask George! That's up to him!



#7 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 03:13 PM

<p>That's a beefy trailer. You not worried about steel rusting out under the wood planks? i had thought about doing that to mine, just go over with wood, but figured water under the wood would rust it out real quick.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have a 5x8 and a 6x16 that both need redone, my big trailer has some "foot" size holes in the metal floor, not sure how those happened :hitting_self_roller:</p>


Actually I am a bit worried, but I figured since I'm just duplicating the way it was made when new, that it will be ok.
Only this time I am going to make an effort to stop the planks from rotting, and the deck pan from rusting through.

I used the trailer a lot, it sat outside all the time uncovered. The planks lasted 11-12 years before they got bad, same with the oak. I plan on using my home made preservative on the wood, a mixture of drain oil and diesel fuel. (Please don't call the EPA)
I did nothing to it last time and it lasted pretty long, hopefully with the preservative and keeping the deck tilted to allow water to run out it will last much longer. I'm even thinking about making a custom tarp like cover for it.

It's the heaviest trailer I could find in that size that tilted with a low angle. I believe it's a 6000lb axel. Towmaster makes very well built trailers.
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#8 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 09:13 PM

Think I need new nuts ? One of two bolts that mount the axel to the frame. It's also welded but the weld is broke.
This is why the tire rubbed the inside of the fender when carrying heavy loads.

First two pics are the crusty, rusty nuts.

3rd is the broken weld

4th is where the tire was rubbing

5th is the trailer pivot point (needs grease)

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#9 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 09:33 PM

Talk about ridden hard, and put away dirty. :D

I might think about just using the oak w/o the metal bed,maybe add a few cross beams for added support,  many heavy trailers are made like that.

 

P.S. Come to think about it, last trailer I got was just cross supports and wood deck, older unit made by uHaul but has a different name on it, can't think of name now, but at one time they sold a "consumer"trailer think it was made in PA.


Edited by John@Reliable, February 21, 2013 - 09:44 PM.

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#10 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 09:44 PM

Do you park the darn thing in the ocean when it's not in use? :hitting_self_roller:

 

I'm inclined to agree with Mr. 'Parked in the Wrong Spot Before the Last Storm' on the bed construction, but since ya got the metal already, just paint it up good and either park it on an incline or cover the bed when not it use.



#11 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 10:25 PM

Do you park the darn thing in the ocean when it's not in use? :hitting_self_roller:

 

I'm inclined to agree with Mr. 'Parked in the Wrong Spot Before the Last Storm' on the bed construction, but since ya got the metal already, just paint it up good and either park it on an incline or cover the bed when not it use.

Come on,first time in 12 years this has happen  :D  treeonecars0.JPG

 

P.S. Wife asked me tonight, (storm is to hit us again this weekend) we going to park on the hill again, lucky she said it with a smile :poke:



#12 NJKen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 21, 2013 - 10:53 PM

It's a bit rusted and I guess it was just a bad undercoating job from the start. <br><br>
My big trailer is made that way John. This trailer was designed to use a steel pan with 6/4 decking on the pan. To change it would require lots of work and $$. <br><br>
Once I get the rust in check and the bolts replaced. It should be good for another 10-15 years. <br>
I have a friend coming over tomorrow to see about sandblasting the bottom. Hopefully I can flip it on its side. It's not a lite weight trailer. It's over 1000lbs empty. Once it's blasted I'll prime, paint and undercoat the heck out of it.


O yeah, if I only used the steel, there would be an 1-1/4" plus lip on the rear end that the scissor lift could never get past. Another reason that I have to stick with the plan. <br><br>
You can see what I'm talking about in this pic, I think.

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Edited by NJKen, February 21, 2013 - 10:55 PM.

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#13 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 06:19 AM

I think I would add a few drain holes for moisture to get out of there.


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#14 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 10:16 AM

That sure is weird they used that construction from the factory. My big trailer has a steel floor that someone welded in, nice, but it's getting holes in it everywhere. I'm torn between replacing steel or ripping off and going with wood.

I too would drill some weep holes in steel floor, put quite a few coats of paint on it or maybe bed liner to seal steel real well, but then that might trap moisture between wood/steel too.

Good work on it!!!



#15 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 01:41 PM

Ken , You could always use steel grating like this and have unlimited tie down spots, good drainage and still carry lots of weight. I have used this stuff on lot of projects for customers and placed heavy equipment on it, strong stuff.

 

th.jpg th1.jpg


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