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#16 Kyocum OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 08:07 AM

Have they changed their brand recently Kelly?  When I changed oil in my pickup in september I bought the Napa badged oil and the parts guy told me that it was refined by Havoline.  He's been behind the counter for ages and I trust him.  Just wonder if they switched or he has misinformation.

 

My small engines ALL get straight 30.  We have a 55 gallon drum of CaseIH low ash 30W at the farm for the several dozen air cooled engines we have. They've all liked it for years.  I think the low ash is the way to go on ail cooled to keep them from building up a lot of carbon and causing valve problems.

Chad I just did a google search and everything I come up with tells me Napa oil is produced by Ashland which in turn is Valvoline.


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#17 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 08:40 AM

"Oil' threads sure create a lot of brand-banter for sure..  This question is kinda like-->  Do you prefer green or blue??

 

There are so many choices available nowadays you need to assess your needs and now your pocket depth will dictate what oil you use in your equipment..  Some folks swear by synthetic these days but is very pricey!!  Straight 30W is all I use because I don't run my equipment in the winter..  (I buy it by the case in Tractor Supply)  Many farming friends prefer Rotella BTW..  



#18 1978murray OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 08:49 AM

i use wolfshead 30w in murray and other tractors. and valvoline semi senthetic in panzer



#19 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 07:51 PM

Chad I just did a google search and everything I come up with tells me Napa oil is produced by Ashland which in turn is Valvoline.

 

Thanks Kelly.  I'll have to keep that in mind next time I'm in the store and see what he says.



#20 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 08:18 PM

Thanks Kelly.  I'll have to keep that in mind next time I'm in the store and see what he says.


I got interested in oil and started reading up at the bobistheoilguy forums in '08 or early '09 and the Napa branded oil was Ashland/Valvoline at least that far back. Valvoline does confirm that they are the producers of Napa's oil but they say the additive pack is just slightly inferior. Is it really.... or is that just marketing talk to get you to buy the name brand, who knows?
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#21 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 08:49 AM

...   I think the low ash is the way to go on ail cooled to keep them from building up a lot of carbon and causing valve problems.

 

As do I.  There's a reason that light aircraft use low/ashless oil.  Many, many moons ago when I owned a 1946 Cessna 140 40wt ashless was all that I used in it.

 

At the soaring club I'm in, we use a multiweight ashless in the Piper Pawnee that we use as a tow plane.


Edited by OldBuzzard, February 20, 2013 - 08:50 AM.

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#22 backwoods OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 09:25 AM

i use either 10w30 or 5w30 which ever i have enough of after a couple oil changes in the car or blazer but i run my tractors year round the push mowers get 30w im not picky on brand as long is its not quaker state.


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#23 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 09:38 AM

I agree on not using Quaker State, I also don't use Pennzoil, or Havoline. The Pennsylvania crude has paraffin in it and it cause sludge to build up. When I was a mechanic use could the motors that ran those 3 oils just from the sludge inside. I use Rotella in everything now, it has a special hi pressure additive because it primarily made for Diesel engines. BTW it not the oil that makes the sludge, its the fuel, I have rarely ever seen a Diesel engine sludge, and a propane/ NATGAS motor will NEVER sludge no matter what oil is used.
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#24 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 10:10 AM

I agree on not using Quaker State, I also don't use Pennzoil, or Havoline. The Pennsylvania crude has paraffin in it and it cause sludge to build up. When I was a mechanic use could the motors that ran those 3 oils just from the sludge inside. I use Rotella in everything now, it has a special hi pressure additive because it primarily made for Diesel engines. BTW it not the oil that makes the sludge, its the fuel, I have rarely ever seen a Diesel engine sludge, and a propane/ NATGAS motor will NEVER sludge no matter what oil is used.

You are so Right!! When I was young my father would use nothing but Quaker State, and My Father in Law would use nothing but Pennzoil. After taking the valve covers off a couple Fords that would barely run due to the Sludge built up to the point the valve springs were binding. I quit using either. Two Yrs ago my 318 was burning a little oil, I changed it to Rotella 15-40( mis-stated as 15-30 in my last post) and it quit using oil. My thinking was if it was spec'd for heavy service Diesel it ought to be goood for my air cooled engines. And could not be happier.

I don't own any really old engines and so none are old enough to be spec'd for non detergent oil.

The last few I have bought over the past 10 yrs called for a 10-30 detergent in the operators manuals.

 

When I bought my Ford 1500 Diesel it was a little over full. My suspicion was that the previous owner did not use the fuel shutoff when it was parked. So I changed it as soon as I got it home. It has about 60 hrs on it since I got it and it is down just a smidge. I will change it before I start Spring garden work.


Edited by JD DANNELS, February 20, 2013 - 10:23 AM.

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#25 Gary400 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 10:29 AM

i use 10w30 Valvoline in every thing i own but if i was to change i would use Mobil 1 i think .



#26 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 03:43 PM

I agree on not using Quaker State, I also don't use Pennzoil, or Havoline. The Pennsylvania crude....


Keep in mind, all three of those are just brand names now. None of them use Penn. oil and have't for decades. Pennzoil and Quaker State are part of Shell (Dutch company) and Havoline is owned by Chevron. No reason not to use any of the three as all make good products.
The only company using PA crude that I know of is Brad Penn oil.

#27 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 06:31 PM

No oil we use today even remotely resembles the formulation that Daddys and Grandaddys used.  Which is one of the reasons auto engines go waaaaay farther into milagehood than anything we could expect "back in the day".  Oil has gone from just a lubricant to a total engine life preserver and extender.  It's really true, "Better living through good ol' chemistry.":D

 

(Makes me think my next Bloody Mary will be made with synthetic tomato juice!):D



#28 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted February 20, 2013 - 06:42 PM

When I was a member of the TroyBilt Tiller group, I was just ran off over a discussion over what tranny oil to use. The manual calls for GL1. GL1 was retired back in the 90's and is not longer even tested. The TB were designed back in the 1950's and the manual everyone uses was last updated back in the 80's. The group was deadest against using anything other than GL1. I told them I use GL4/GL5, I was told not to use the GL5 because its hard on yellow metals, since the TB's use a bronze gear in the backend, I was going to tear it up. I post the information GL5 only being harmful when the temp gets over 300*. That didn't matter to them. GL1 has no additives except maybe an anti foam agent. The worm drive in the back needs a better oil than that. I left the group shortly after that.

#29 welderman85 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2013 - 11:05 AM

Do you just use 10w30 for cars or do I need small engine oil

#30 Amigatec OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2013 - 11:07 AM

I use 15-40 Rotella in everything.




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