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#1 welderman85 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 08:12 PM

hi im kinda new to the hobby and i was wonder what is a common oil to run. i was thinking 30w but what brand. thanks


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#2 pwombles OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 08:23 PM

I know some will say that all oil is the same as long as itis the correct weight, but I have found this to be untrue. I currently use Valvoline, but have also used Pennzoil in the past. I feel thatthe Valvoline is just a bit better. I did learn early on from an old Mechanic mot to use Quaker State. Everything from vehicles to mowers that he put that stuff in stunk when it ran. My 2 cents....


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#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 08:29 PM

It's getting hard to get 30w oil here. I buy generic 30w from my local Canadian Tire store. If you want to go with a synthetic Amsoil makes a 30w version. 


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#4 Kyocum OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 08:30 PM

If  your machine sits outside in the cold I would use a multi viscosity oil like a 10w-30. If it is in a heated garage garage straight 30w would be fine. X2 on the Valvoline oil. I use NAPA brand oil which is made by Valvoline.


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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 08:47 PM

I stared at the specs on my Onan for a full 20 minutes, trying to talk myself out of using multi-viscosity. In the end, I used 10-30 detergent like it said... But I tend towards 30w non detergent when I can find it.
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#6 Bob IN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 08:49 PM

Personaly i use pennzoil 30w. But each to there own. :loosing_it: 


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#7 larrybl ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 09:16 PM

I switched to Shell Rotella 30W, Have some strange stuff going on, will start a new link about it. Don't think it is the oil, as it has been seen elsewhere.


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#8 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 09:25 PM

I am running 15-30 rotella in both garden tractors, push mower and the 1500 ford. Going to switch all the cars to it too.
Can not see any reason to have several brands around?
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#9 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 09:26 PM

AS others have kind of said "to each ,is own". I think it's more important on small engine to change it often vs brand. Remember we are using old equipment, that time has proven works, but it's also used, a lot of blow by on many of these type motors which robs oil of what it's for, to prevent wear. I buy 30 wt oil by the 5 gallon pail, and don't really worry or track about how much time is between oil changes (I know) when its time. I've been know to change oil after using something hard for a few hours and know that it won't get used for months, but for 4 bucks it's cheap insurance.


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#10 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 09:47 PM

Strait 30w for me . I use mostly Penn or Castrol HD30 in my small engines unless otherwise specified . I use Mobile 1 5-20 in my jeep . As JDBrian said 30w can be scarce .

 

larryd


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#11 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 10:42 PM

I run whatever the manual says to run. I have a Briggs that wants 30w in the summer and 5w20 in the winter. That's what it gets. It gets changed a lot too. More than needed probably. Cheap insurance.


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#12 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted February 18, 2013 - 10:53 PM

If  your machine sits outside in the cold I would use a multi viscosity oil like a 10w-30. If it is in a heated garage garage straight 30w would be fine. X2 on the Valvoline oil. I use NAPA brand oil which is made by Valvoline.

Have they changed their brand recently Kelly?  When I changed oil in my pickup in september I bought the Napa badged oil and the parts guy told me that it was refined by Havoline.  He's been behind the counter for ages and I trust him.  Just wonder if they switched or he has misinformation.

 

My small engines ALL get straight 30.  We have a 55 gallon drum of CaseIH low ash 30W at the farm for the several dozen air cooled engines we have. They've all liked it for years.  I think the low ash is the way to go on ail cooled to keep them from building up a lot of carbon and causing valve problems.


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#13 HydroHarold OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 12:45 AM

Michigan?  Winter?  30wt?  I'd be thinking that's a bit "thick" for cold weather starting and running proper lubrication...  Unless you're doing "old school stuff" like running an oil burning engine in winter with a crank pan pre-heat to get it going.  Multi viz's may not last as long in an old engine, but the new oil multigrades will certainly keep them lubed properly in cold weather.

 

I'm a "one brand'er" also, all my stuff runs on John Deere oils/greases...  It keeps my smiling face in the dealers more often and he gives me a break on anything I buy.  Their oil is top notch (and top dollar, but I'm not buying 5 gal. at a time) and if they rate it for their equipment then it's good enough for any brand OPE I've got.


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#14 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 06:13 AM

Thanks Harold! I haven't checked with my JD dealer to see if they stock 30w. They probably do but I guess I never thought of buying my oil there. I always got it where I get my automotive oil.


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#15 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted February 19, 2013 - 07:37 AM

I did learn early on from an old Mechanic mot to use Quaker State. Everything from vehicles to mowers that he put that stuff in stunk when it ran. My 2 cents....

Your comment reminded me , my grandfather said the same thing about Quaker State when he was alive . He had a garage from before WW2 till he died in 1993 , he said Quaker State would gum/carbon up the insides of the engines . He always used a oil called McMillan Ring Free , bet not many have heard of it . I thought they were out of business until I just did a web search ,and found they are.around. Can't remember when I saw it in the stores last but it looks like they still sell in qts.  not just bulk . Myself I just try to use the correct grade , wt. and if it calls for synthetic not any special brand (  including Quaker State ) and change it often.  I believe most oils now are better then ones 10, 20+ years ago.  Al

http://www.scotlubri....com/index.html


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