Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Jd430 Weird Speed Changes...fixed :-)


  • Please log in to reply
34 replies to this topic

#1 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,572 Thanks
  • 29,821 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:01 PM

I got a wild hair to check out why my "new to me" John Deere 430 will change speeds at will while driving, usually only downhill.  It would be going along fine, then suddenly slow, then speed up again.  So I took off the rear fender pan & fuel tank, along with removing the mowing deck.  It didn't take long to see exactly why it is doing it.  Where the axle tubes bolt to the frame, the frame is broken & all is loose.  Also, the cross member at the front of the hydro is loose at the frame, and very loose where the single bolt goes into the front of the differential housing.  It flexes all over the place, so when hitting uneven spots in the ground, the speed changes are even worse.  But even on smooth ground it does it also, due to all the slop.  Here are some pics, and I'll add video later of how loose it is.

 

PICT0009.JPG PICT0010.JPG PICT0011.JPG PICT0012.JPG


  • Texas Deere and Horse, KennyP, JDBrian and 5 others have said thanks

#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,572 Thanks
  • 29,821 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:10 PM

Here's proof in the pudding....well, in video! 

 


  • Texas Deere and Horse, boyscout862, WNYTractorTinkerer and 1 other said thanks

#3 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

JD DANNELS

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2011
  • 3,786 Thanks
  • 3,907 posts
  • Location: Newton.Ia

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:14 PM

Knowing what to fix is th first step. I can't wait to see how you do it!



#4 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,572 Thanks
  • 29,821 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:18 PM

I plan to weld up the cracks, then add a large piece of 1/4" angle iron to both sides to reinforce things.  Then I'll weld up the cross member bolt holes and re-drill to proper size.  Also, this cross member only bolts to one mount boss on the front of the differential housing, but I will alter it so it can bolt to both sides as I did on my diesel JB when I added this same hydro system to it.  


  • Texas Deere and Horse, KennyP and boyscout862 have said thanks

#5 JRJ OFFLINE  

JRJ
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 16399
  • 876 Thanks
  • 1,170 posts
  • Location: N.W. Arkansas

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:19 PM

That is no doubt going to have be welded. What method of welding are you going to do.

 

Dick


Edited by JRJ, February 18, 2013 - 01:31 PM.


#6 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:20 PM

Daniel, I have seen one that loose. I would get the cracks welded up and then look at adding a couple cross braces, one in front and one behind the Hydro. You will have to make it so the drive shaft and PTO can go through them.



#7 mowinman2 OFFLINE  

mowinman2

    Always on the Hunt

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5587
  • 195 Thanks
  • 243 posts
  • Location: Midland, NC

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:21 PM

WOW!!  That would be a great reason for the speed changes.  I cant wait to see the final work you have done and see how much it helps.



#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,572 Thanks
  • 29,821 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 18, 2013 - 12:26 PM

Daniel, I have seen one that loose. I would get the cracks welded up and then look at adding a couple cross braces, one in front and one behind the Hydro. You will have to make it so the drive shaft and PTO can go through them.

 

Yes, I was thinking about making another cross member, as the top of the frame rails has nothing at all to prevent twisting forces from breaking things where they are broken,  



#9 coalminer16 OFFLINE  

coalminer16
  • New Member
  • Member No: 28441
  • 2 Thanks
  • 1 posts
  • Location: Central WI

Posted February 18, 2013 - 04:00 PM

I just found this forum from another one. My post may be delayed as I am getting the message that I have to have it approved before it is shown.

 

One of my two 332's had the cracks where the axle bolts to the frame. Fairly common crack area. My brother who is a professional welder just used the plasma cutter to "grove" out the crack, welded solid and ground it back smooth. The crack can form from loose bolts or other various reasons of use over time. My 332 didn't have evidence of any other implements other then the mower deck.

 

As far as adding braces-that is good to a point. There is some pretty ugly fixes out there including the one done on my fathers 430 I currenlty am working on. I will end up cutting off the rear of the frame and adding a new section in from  a free frame I had gotten.

 

And the speed up/slow down. Make sure to check the linkage to the swash plate (input into the tranny pump) as well. And not only will the flexing of the cracks cause the speed up but also loose bolts. My other 332 had loose bolts. They bolt had bad linkage. One had a bolt so thin it was just barely there.


  • olcowhand and JRJ have said thanks

#10 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

glgrumpy

    Getting Out!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 8360
  • 6,647 Thanks
  • 6,460 posts
  • Location: Huntington, IN 46750 North East in State

Posted February 18, 2013 - 05:44 PM

Once bought a 317 chassis to use drive. It was all floppy in frame where axles go thru. BUT, didn't see a way to just cut a little and slip the frame off the axle. Seems the frame orig just had holes or cut areas and must have been put on before the axle housings were installed??  Someone had tried to fix with angle and bad weld job. Am I not seeing how they were built or ?   Wondering if maybe too much bracing won't just give more problems or breakage of cases or ? if too solid. Would think maybe some flex is kinda built-in and needed? Not certain on that, just wondering.



#11 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 28,377 Thanks
  • 39,645 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted February 18, 2013 - 05:57 PM

Looks like you found the root of the issue. I'm sure you will have it going right again soon!



#12 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,572 Thanks
  • 29,821 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 18, 2013 - 06:44 PM

Had a long day with a heifer calving, but I did get some accomplished on the 430.  I am adding 3 1/2" x 1/4" angle iron where the axle tubes bolt.  Where you see the red dots, I will drill & place 7/16" bolts & nuts.  The green marks is where I will weld it in 1" or so increments.  I believe along with repairing the front crossmember, doing this on both sides will be enough to last years without additional bracing.  

 

430repair.JPG

 

The right side was broken up really bad.

 

DSC00062.JPG


  • KennyP and JRJ have said thanks

#13 Gary400 OFFLINE  

Gary400

    JD,junkie

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2316
  • 225 Thanks
  • 768 posts
  • Location: North East Missouri

Posted February 18, 2013 - 06:59 PM

now i have to check mine , when i go down hill it feels like what you described . i just figured it was the old worn out gears in the tranny .  



#14 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted February 18, 2013 - 08:27 PM

The older 300's use a different setup where the axle assembly is welded to a 8" high 1/4" thick U section that forms the rear wall of the frame. This then bolts to the frame rails. When JD switched to the open style rear frame they had to change the axle mounting method. This is good to know if I'm ever looking at one of these tractors in the future. 



#15 Cat385B ONLINE  

Cat385B

    Therapy CAT

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8002
  • 11,691 Thanks
  • 8,886 posts
  • Location: MN

Posted February 18, 2013 - 09:02 PM

Calf and new mooma doing okay?






Top