Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Tecumseh Kill Wire


  • Please log in to reply
15 replies to this topic

#1 Matt O OFFLINE  

Matt O
  • Member
  • Member No: 28054
  • 119 Thanks
  • 97 posts
  • Location: Swansea, MA

Posted February 13, 2013 - 05:17 PM

Hi, I recently purchased a 1968 sears ss12. it was in fairly good shape but the wiring was a mess, there were wires everywhere but nothing connected. i followed the diagram below that another guy said would work. i got the motor to run but theres no way to shut it off. i have to choke the engine when i want to shut it off. i have done alot of research and it doesn't seem like im missing any wires but the wire on the flywheel housing is supposed to be grounded and run to the key switch but it has power going to it. can anyone tell me what may be going wrong or put me in the right direction?

 

 

ss12 wiring (1).JPG



#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 13, 2013 - 05:26 PM

Whatever you do, DO NOT put power to that ignition kill wire!  You can ruin your ignition system.  Sounds like you have the wrong type ignition switch.  Your switch sounds like for a battery powered ignition which has a pole "I" for ignition.  The correct switch will have an "M" which stands for magneto, which is a grounding circuit.


  • MH81 said thank you

#3 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

HDWildBill

    Freedom is not Free. Thank those in uniform for your freedom.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 6354
  • 8,697 Thanks
  • 8,555 posts
  • Location: Ga

Posted February 13, 2013 - 05:40 PM

First off Welcome to GTtalk.  Have you checked the manuals section for a manual on your tractor?  There may be a better wiring diagram in there to help and as Daniel suggested you can make sure you have the correct ignition switch.



#4 superaben OFFLINE  

superaben
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 11204
  • 7,664 Thanks
  • 5,677 posts
  • Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

Posted February 13, 2013 - 05:43 PM

Daniel is right: the switch you need grounds the M terminal to the tractor frame ground internally when the switch is off.  It does not send power to the coil connection like a battery ignition switch.  If you can measure 12 volts on the ignition (or even M terminal) you've got a wrong switch or a bad switch.

 

If you have the right switch, as a simple test, does M have continuity to ground when the key is off?

 

Ben W.


  • HDWildBill said thank you

#5 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,250 Thanks
  • 28,602 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted February 13, 2013 - 05:54 PM

Can you take verify if its a points type Tecumseh or an electronic ignition style? Pics of both sides of the engine may help us help you.

I agree with all above, do not apply power to the electronic ign, you will only have an expensive disappointment.

The only reason you may have power on that line is if someone has done some renovation work on the ignition system, but like I said... A few pics may help.

#6 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

KC9KAS
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10038
  • 4,782 Thanks
  • 4,302 posts
  • Location: Holland, IN

Posted February 13, 2013 - 05:55 PM

:welcometogttalk:  and :wewantpics:



#7 TAHOE OFFLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,480 Thanks
  • 4,937 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted February 13, 2013 - 09:37 PM

The SS12 should have the SSI module ignition. I agree it sounds like it has the wrong switch and also do not put power to that kill wire... that would be an expensive fix. If you really want to do it on the cheap, just put a toggle switch on the kill wire terminating the one end to the frame. one way it will be in "off" position which will allow it to run, the other way "on" will let the ground go to chassis. Not really the coorect way, but can work until you get correct switch or figure out other wiring.


  • HDWildBill said thank you

#8 Bud W OFFLINE  

Bud W

    New Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2359
  • 228 Thanks
  • 217 posts
  • Location: Cly, Pennsylvania

Posted February 22, 2013 - 03:36 PM

You could hook a small mopar relay in to allow you to use the existing switch. Hook the 12v from the switch (must have 12 volts with switch in "on" and "start" position)  to the coil of the relay, ground the other coil terminal. Hook the common relay contact to the ignition kill terminal and the normally closed contact of the relay to ground. Here's how it works: key switch off, no current flows through the relay coil, ignition kill terminal connects to ground, no spark. Turn switch on, current flows through the coil, opens the relay contacts removing ground from the ignition kill terminal, spark.


  • CRFarnsworth said thank you

#9 Matt O OFFLINE  

Matt O
  • Member
  • Member No: 28054
  • 119 Thanks
  • 97 posts
  • Location: Swansea, MA

Posted March 01, 2013 - 07:44 PM

Thanks to everyone who replied :wave: , I haven't had time to do anything but I will try what you guys suggested. I looked at the keyswitch though and found I have an I instead of an M.


Edited by Matt O, March 01, 2013 - 07:46 PM.


#10 superaben OFFLINE  

superaben
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 11204
  • 7,664 Thanks
  • 5,677 posts
  • Location: Shenandoah Valley, VA

Posted March 01, 2013 - 08:07 PM

Thanks to everyone who replied :wave: , I haven't had time to do anything but I will try what you guys suggested. I looked at the keyswitch though and found I have an I instead of an M.

 

Matt, in that case, don't turn the switch on until you get a magneto ignition switch! 

 

Ben W.


  • MH81 and Matt O have said thanks

#11 MH81 ONLINE  

MH81

    Proud to be Deplorable

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 802
  • 27,250 Thanks
  • 28,602 posts
  • Location: N. W. PA

Posted March 01, 2013 - 08:50 PM

Matt, in that case, don't turn the switch on until you get a magneto ignition switch! 
 
Ben W.


Ben is 150% correct. That would be very bad.

#12 TAHOE OFFLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,480 Thanks
  • 4,937 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted March 02, 2013 - 11:48 AM

Ben is 150% correct. That would be very bad.

 

....and mucho $$$$$$



#13 Canawler OFFLINE  

Canawler

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1273
  • 1,893 Thanks
  • 1,750 posts
  • Location: York, PA

Posted March 02, 2013 - 04:09 PM

Just for my information, what year did Tecumseh switch from points to the SSI?
My '67 Meteor has points.

Edited by Canawler, March 02, 2013 - 04:10 PM.


#14 Matt O OFFLINE  

Matt O
  • Member
  • Member No: 28054
  • 119 Thanks
  • 97 posts
  • Location: Swansea, MA

Posted March 02, 2013 - 06:43 PM

I'm not sure when Tecumseh switched from points to the SSI but today I looked at the motor and found where the points would have been. the hole isn't there for the screw that holds the points cover on and the points cover is missing too. I cannot tell if the engine has been converted to the SSI but the system seems pretty stock to me and it doesn't look like there were ever points in the hole.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_2554.5.jpg

Edited by Matt O, March 02, 2013 - 06:45 PM.


#15 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted March 02, 2013 - 07:15 PM

This one never had points.  The first models to use solid state ignition just used the old engine cast molds.  They simply didn't machine the points area.






Top