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Ff 20 Blade


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#1 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 07:20 AM

My FF 20 came with a Gravely blade adapted to it. The frame runs the length of the tractor and hooks in at the lugs on the rear end for the 3-point. It was brought up in another thread that a hard hit could possibly break those lugs. So i have been thinking of a different way to mount the blade. I really don't like the lift I get as it is set up, only about 3"-4". Here's a few pics from the original thread.

Image014.jpg
Image009.jpg
Image030.jpg
Both the FF's have the front brackets for mounting front attachments.
Image023.jpg
I am thinking of using the lower slotted holes to hang the blade on, then go back and use the mower lift to raise and lower it. The wimpy 3/8" lift rods will be changed out to more substantial 1/4" thick bar stock.
I'm not sure how all this will work out. But I am hoping I can get the blade to lift much higher.  This is just in preliminary stage right now. Wanted to see what others thought of this idea. There is the option of using the front attachment lift, but I need to study that more to see what/how that all works.
If anyone sees something or has a better idea, post it.
One of the FF's will have a 3-point, and the other will have a sleeve hitch on the back.

 

 


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#2 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 08:35 AM

The existing lift point is probably too far from the pivot on the rear axle tab. If you know the range of movement of the existing lift you could calculate the lift at the blade once you know where the pivot will be in relation to the lift point. How does the factory Ford  blade attach and lift the blade. I'd have a look at that and see if it's doable. Then you know it's strong enough and will lift a decent distance. 3-4" is not enough. I think the JD's lift about 10" and will float down below grade a few inches as well. That reminds me that you will need to consider a range of movement for the float if you want that feature. The JD's mount the blade on the front so the distance from lift point to the pivot point is always short.  


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#3 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 08:53 AM

Pretty sure the OEM front blade would only have had a 6" + or - lift to start with. None of these Sears tractors had a lot of ground clearance.
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#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 08:53 AM

I just looked at the manual for the 54" blade that came on these. That all comes off the brackets on the front. It also gave me more insight of how the front lift works. So I may look into that as an option. This blade is a lot heavier then the Sears blade, for sure. So the mount will have to be made heavy duty as well.

I plan to look into how much lift is at the mower lift area and also what I might get from using the front lift.

I just looked and the 54" Dozer blade for the FF's is not in our Manuals section, so I will get it uploaded.


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#5 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 09:08 AM

Alan, 6" would be better than what I am getting at the moment. I uploaded the manual for the 54" blade. That gave me better understanding of how to use the front brackets and lift there. It's a matter now of seeing how much lift either of the two gives/can give. I don't plan on taking the existing mount apart until I have another in operation just in case.



#6 Dieselcubmike OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 12:47 PM

Wow kenny just looking at the ff its a monster! I bet you feel like your on top of a mountain while driving it around



#7 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 02:54 PM

Send it to me. Problem solved. :thumbs:



#8 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 03:09 PM

IF you were closer, I might consider selling you one. On second thought, NO WAY!


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#9 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2013 - 05:52 PM

I took the blade off today in anticipation of the upcoming plow day. Now the FF has power steering! :bigrofl: That is one heavy blade. No way I'm trying to pick it up!

The mower lift has about 4" of travel. I will have to draw that up and see what I get where the blade will be.



#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 07:26 AM

The existing lift point is probably too far from the pivot on the rear axle tab. If you know the range of movement of the existing lift you could calculate the lift at the blade once you know where the pivot will be in relation to the lift point. How does the factory Ford  blade attach and lift the blade. I'd have a look at that and see if it's doable. Then you know it's strong enough and will lift a decent distance. 3-4" is not enough. I think the JD's lift about 10" and will float down below grade a few inches as well. That reminds me that you will need to consider a range of movement for the float if you want that feature. The JD's mount the blade on the front so the distance from lift point to the pivot point is always short.  

I think the only way to get 10" of lift on the blade, I will have to keep from going under the front axle with any part of it. I will be getting another blade before long. It looks to be one for a GT18, but unsure until I get it. But it has the lift they use and maybe I can use that as a basis for this heavy thing.

Speaking of weight, I put the measurements of the blade in a calculator online and just the blade itself is around 70 lbs. Might get out the scales today and see what the whole thing adds up to. The blade is 1/4" steel plate (bent into the curve), 21" tall and 48" wide. Monster!

I will see about some pics of it all today!

 

Another thought I had! Cut about 6"~ off the top to make a belly blade out of.


Edited by KennyP, February 11, 2013 - 07:28 AM.
Added comment


#11 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 07:57 AM

Here's a pic of the 'wimpy' lift rods used for the mower. They are 3/8" rod. They attach onto 1/2" studs on the center lift arms.

Image035.jpg

 

I plan to make some from 1/4" X 1" strap and use 1/2" pins at the blade if I decide to use the center lift for the blade.



#12 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 08:51 AM

With the mower deck directly under the lift point those 3/8" were all that was needed. With the blade weight hanging way out the front it would put more stress on the lift than the deck would.


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 09:01 AM

With the mower deck directly under the lift point those 3/8" were all that was needed. With the blade weight hanging way out the front it would put more stress on the lift than the deck would.

I agree, Brian. The hydraulics and major lift mechanism is up to the task. These just seem too small for what the PO had in mind.



#14 bgkid2966 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 09:23 AM

I think the only way to get 10" of lift on the blade, I will have to keep from going under the front axle with any part of it. I will be getting another blade before long. It looks to be one for a GT18, but unsure until I get it. But it has the lift they use and maybe I can use that as a basis for this heavy thing.

Speaking of weight, I put the measurements of the blade in a calculator online and just the blade itself is around 70 lbs. Might get out the scales today and see what the whole thing adds up to. The blade is 1/4" steel plate (bent into the curve), 21" tall and 48" wide. Monster!

I will see about some pics of it all today!

 

Another thought I had! Cut about 6"~ off the top to make a belly blade out of.

 

 

Better yet, give me the heavy blade and find the proper blade for it!! :rolling:  :rolling:  :rolling:

 

 

 

 

Geno



#15 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 09:56 AM

Better yet, give me the heavy blade and find the proper blade for it!! :rolling:  :rolling:  :rolling:

 

 

 

 

Geno

Don't think so! :bigrofl:






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