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Case 442 $100 Ri


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#46 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 05:46 PM

what is the serial # of tractor, and what # book are you using?



#47 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 05:51 PM

S# 9652642

 

Owners manual diagram and what moose Matthew sent me.



#48 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 09:09 AM

What were you able to find?



#49 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 09:31 AM

What were you able to find?

 

Here's the video of my switch. As I state in the video this is not the correct switch but it does the job.

 

 

Have you tested the solenoid?

 

Here's a quick description of how to test it (no offense if you know this already):

 

"Sure you can test it. But you'll need either a 12V automotive type test light or a DC volt meter. To test the output of the solenoid you need to identify the solenoid output terminal (this terminal has the cable that goes to the starter connected to it). Attach the ground (negative) of the test light or volt meter to a good, clean ground surface (the negative post of battery is good for this), then hold the test light probe on the output terminal of the solenoid while you or a helper turns the ignition switch to START. If the solenoid is working, the test light should light up. If using a volt meter, the meter should read the same as your battery voltage. If the test light doesn't light up, or the volt meter shows no voltage, your solenoid is most likely defective. But before I would condemn it I would check to make sure that the cables are tight and not corroded anywhere between the battery and the solenoid and between the solenoid and the starter. Most of these machines also have the battery negative cable attached to the engine somewhere. Make sure the negative (ground) cable is free of corrosion and tight. A fault in the ground side can be just as bad as one in the "hot" side of a starter circuit." [Source: http://forums2.garde...422831237.html]


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#50 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 12:22 PM

I believe this is the correct ignition switch based on the numbers provided in the manual.

 

igntion switch correct.jpg

 

C23839 Ignition Switch Kit Early 200/400/600 Product Description

Ignition switch kit to replace the Culver-Stearns switch used on early 200/400 & 600 models with the current Indak switch. Includes a C30268 switch as well as the necessary backing plate, hardware and installation instructions. Replaces C18007. Not for use on the 1969 444PK tractors with solid state ignition, used only with battery/coil ignition systems.

 



#51 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 06:13 PM

You need manual # 9-2862 for that serial # of tractor , is that the one you have Matt?



#52 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 07:22 PM

Here's the parts catalog I've been pulling diagrams from. Based on the S/N range listed in this manual it is correct for our tractors.

 

Attached File  Parts Catalog No. D1181 (220,222,442,444).pdf   2.55MB   42 downloads

 

This is the only Operator's Manual I've found. It's the closest to my tractor I've found.

 

Attached File  76880-Case Ingersoll Oper Manual 220-222-224-444.pdf   1.97MB   25 downloads

 

John, any chance you'd have a lead on the manual you mentioned above (manual # 9-2862).....like for less than the going rate?

 

Thanks.


Edited by Moosetales, March 14, 2013 - 07:36 PM.


#53 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2013 - 08:39 PM

Nope, looks like I've got manual 9-2171 for the 220, 222, & 442.



#54 John@Reliable OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2013 - 08:00 AM

Now I remember, that's kind of the lost manual of Case tractors, seems like none of the Case sites have it. One member here or maybe at the friendly site had it but wouldn't share it for some reason. Did find it on-line for under 10 bucks, link below Good luck

 

http://www.m-and-d.com/ING-9-2862.html



#55 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2013 - 11:14 PM

I looked at the new key switch, and figured out what wires go where. So I installed them, then hooked up the battery and got 0. No headlights, no start, no nothing.

 

At this point, going to switch over the solenoid tomorrow just to get that out of my system. Once that's done, I'll go from there.



#56 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 06:27 AM

I looked at the new key switch, and figured out what wires go where. So I installed them, then hooked up the battery and got 0. No headlights, no start, no nothing.

 

At this point, going to switch over the solenoid tomorrow just to get that out of my system. Once that's done, I'll go from there.

 

Titus, Did you say earlier that you bypassed the solenoid and got the engine to turn over? I was able to do the same thing when I first bought my 444 so I replaced the solenoid but nothing. Later I found that my ignition switch was corroded and once I hooked that up thing purred nicely.

 

Solenoid:

 

http://gardentractor...actor/?p=223739

 

So here is the list of suggestions I was given when going through my NO start phase:


1) load testing the battery to see if that is good
2) take a look at the interlock switch (not sure what this is but it was suggested to me to check)
3) test the starter solenoid
4) check the ignition switch (for corrosion and correct switch)
5) check the ground

6) make sure the tractor is in neutral (check the neutral safety switch)

7) make sure the PTO is disengaged (check the safety switch)

8) check for an in-line fuse that may be blown



#57 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 10:49 AM

I did, and I did it again and it turned right over. Battery is good, and if I can jump it, then the solenoid must be good. 

 

 

1) load testing the battery to see if that is good (Good)
2) take a look at the interlock switch (not sure what this is but it was suggested to me to check) (Will look into)
3) test the starter solenoid (Did, when jumped, turns over)
4) check the ignition switch (for corrosion and correct switch) (Has corrosion on the back, some rust, etc)
5) check the ground (Tight, but will clean and check again)

6) make sure the tractor is in neutral (check the neutral safety switch)  (It is and I checked the wiring and switch)

7) make sure the PTO is disengaged (check the safety switch) (It is, knob was pushed in)

8) check for an in-line fuse that may be blown (Checked, no fuses that I can see)


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#58 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 12:08 PM

Any chance you could throw a few pics or a video up here for us to have a look see? Do you still have the switch it came with?

#59 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 12:10 PM

Have you tested the regulator? A pic of that might help too?

#60 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2013 - 12:22 PM

I don't have a camera that can take video, but I can snap more photos, and I'll do that in a few minutes. House is empty, just me & the dogs, well & hockey, but I'll get on it now. Thanks!






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