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Case 442 $100 Ri


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#136 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 11:36 AM

Titus.....I may end up learning something right along side you here but I don't believe our machines ('71 444s) have the "retard position" on our travel levers that is being referenced here. I've read of guys installing mechanisms that allow for it. If we do have the ability to "retard" the system going down hills that would be great. Here's some chatter about ways to install something on our tractors:

 

Yesterday's Tractor Co. thread.....

 

Q--"I have a Case 444 that is a great tractor until you come to the slightest grade. It then runs away with itself until you put it in neutral by stepping on the brake or using the speed control lever--- then the wheels lock up. It has gotten to the point of being too dangerous to use on the hills since I moved here. Is this common for these----like non exsitent braking or hydro control going down a grade? Is there a solution for this other than finding another tractor?"

 

A--This is normal if you leave the travel lever in the full travel position. If you want it to stay a constant speed then you can either get the flow control valve kit or motor brake valve kit from an Ingersoll dealer and pay some pretty hefty bucks but with minimal mods or go to a hydraulic shop and get a hydraulic motor brake valve and plumb into the drive circuit. I just place the lever on my later model 446 in the retard position prior to cresting the hill.

 

Another comment from the same thread stated...."You are supposed to just use the speed control taking it into reverse slowly to slow down going down hill." I'd be curious to hear from our guys whether this is correct. Not been something I'm accustomed to doing.



#137 machinist OFFLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2013 - 10:38 PM

I've been doing it that way for 5 years on my 1980 446 with no problem. I refused to let it run away and crash into a fence with me on it! So, the first time this happened, it was a really steep hill, I got going pretty fast, and just yanked it into reverse. the ag tires spun backwards, it slid a ways, then began industriously trying to climb back up the hill in reverse. I got better at this after a few tries, but I am planning on getting a holding valve for it. My 448 has one and is much nicer.

#138 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 07:10 AM

Its important to consider what goes on inside that valve and the drive motor, when it begins to over-run. Especially the flow paths.  The drive motor turns into a sort of "pump", flowing fluid through the open valve and directly back to tank.

 

When the control valve is abruptly shifted to reverse, pressure spikes can occur in that pathway if the condition is severe. This could easily blow out the relief or even a line, and then you have no way to stop.  Slowly metering the directional control will help, but it doesn't give good "choking" control that the decel valve will



#139 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted May 06, 2013 - 08:46 PM

Now that the weather is better, I can start playing again! I found a cheap muffler that I think may work for this engine. I attempted to weld it to the existing pipe. Worst welding job I've ever done I must say.

 

Either way, I'm installing it hopefully tomorrow and will see how it sounds. I also am working on an enclosure for this beast. I want it running right of course 1st though.

 

Tomorrow will be a great day!



#140 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2013 - 07:53 AM

Now that the weather is better, I can start playing again! I found a cheap muffler that I think may work for this engine. I attempted to weld it to the existing pipe. Worst welding job I've ever done I must say.

 

Either way, I'm installing it hopefully tomorrow and will see how it sounds. I also am working on an enclosure for this beast. I want it running right of course 1st though.

 

Tomorrow will be a great day!

 

How did the install on the muffler go? I'm with you on not having enough time in the day for all the projects I want to accomplish. Let's ask Santa for "free time" this next Christmas.



#141 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted May 13, 2013 - 07:08 PM

No kiddin eh? Well it went well, I installed it, has a few leaks, but quieter than it was. I'm happy with it for now. 

 

I got her to run but only on high idle, on low, she bogs down. I hopefully will be able to get Sat off work and play around with it some more (that's what she said).


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#142 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2013 - 07:17 PM

Took a little time today and pulled her out of the garage. I can't believe tomorrows June and I still don't have this running correctly.  

 

I'm wondering if since this carb sat for so long, that I should replace it, or find someone who can help me with this, as it seems I can't get this right.

 

I'm very frustrated with this because I want it to run correctly, not continue to stall out...



#143 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2013 - 08:08 PM

I'm going to upload some videos to see if this can get figured out. Working tomorrow, but hope to get this knocked out soon. Hell the way it's been, before I know it it's going to be snowing...



#144 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2013 - 11:21 PM

Be of good courage....it will shape up some how some way soon. Video would help pinpoint the problem better than anything else. You're working on a machine that's worth the time and energy.



#145 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2013 - 11:13 AM

I know it's worth the time, it's just this darn carb is giving me fits left & right. And with 0 free time to work on it, it's just aggravating. I pray I find the extra time soon, as before I know it, winter will be at the door step and I wont be ready.



#146 Titus OFFLINE  

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Posted September 27, 2013 - 12:09 PM

Well well I was right, 3 months later & here I am. Engine needs a carb. The throttle plate is all loose and out of whack. So that's where I currently stand on this. I hope to find a carb soon then I may be able to drive it before it gets any colder.






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