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Did We Screw Up ? Jd 314 Pics Up Page 2


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#16 nade-em OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 08:35 PM

Pics you want, pics you shall get! :)

 

This is the way we found it, nothing touched......yet :D

 

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#17 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 08:50 PM

I payed more than that for mine and it was not as good. That doesn't look too bad. The front blade is worth good money on it's own. You need to check the motor mounts and the driveshaft couplers as they are 2 areas of wear on the 314. The rear coupler at the hydro will ruin the hydro input shaft if it wears out so it's an important area to check. If the meter is correct then it has only moderate hours on it. It looks like the hydro level gauge is missing so check that to make sure it's not leaking fluid from the lower fitting where the gauge tube would normally go. Heres a picture of mine with the gauge installed. It's a piece of tubing that runs from the fitting at the base of the filler tube up behind the slot in the rear frame and to a filter/vent then into a fitting on the top of the rear end. You can see the filter tie wrapped to the frame on the left of the picture. You can use a fuel filter but you need to drill a 1/16" hole in the outside case to allow pressure to vent from the hydro system. You read the oil level through the slot in the frame. It should be about 1/2 way up the slot when cold. I was very surprised at how strong my 314 was when i got it working properly. 

 

 

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#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 08:54 PM

It doesn't look as bad as I had pictured in my mind.  If the engine IS still good, then you're not hurting.  Mind you, I'm more into red, so taking that into account, you did even better than I'm saying. 


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#19 Jehtro OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 09:36 PM

That tractor is ok, cast wieghts are 300 bucks alone up here, chains are like 100 bucks new, the blade would be like 150-300 used,

 

Its kinda like doing a roof at your buddies house, you know its going to suck for awhile, and and half way through you'd rather set it on fire thqn complete it. But in the end there cold beer and bbq, and its all good in the end. 


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#20 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 09:59 PM

I think you did OK.  Yours looks cleaner than mine.  Mine looks worse than I did when it picked it up.  Driving an hour in the rain made it look real rough.  Where is the hour meter on your machine?


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#21 coldone OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 10:12 PM

I think you will still be ok. Not a bad deal. Besides its only money :)



#22 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 12:14 AM

You did fine! Since your brother ownes the front half he can rebuild the engine. :D



#23 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 09:35 AM

As johndeereelfman said to have the time with your brother is truly priceless...I bought a Cub126 last year just to have an excuse to visit my brother in MD last year. He is still with the Army and those were really good days spent with him. They are changing the museum there so I got to see and photo some of the tanks and such that may never make it to be displayed again. (cutbacks, you know)  This hobby is really no different from most (coins, models, old cars, whatever) if your in it just to make money...you missed the point !!


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#24 crittersf1 ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 10:38 AM

Looks pretty good, IMO.


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#25 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 11:00 AM

I gave $350 for my 314 w/ only a mower deck and the hydro was apart in a 5 gal bucket. One of the piston paks was trashed. With the attachments I think you did OK. I got a used hydro from joesoutdoorpower.com. While waiting for the hydro I checked the driveshaft over and found the key on the front cplg had worn 1/4 of the way around the coupling and the roll pin on the rear cplg had been replaced w/ a bolt. Replaced shaft w/ a good used one and drilled and tapped the front cplg for two setscrews 120* from each side of the key to help keep things tight. I also plan to up the idle speed to avoid the impulse vibration inherent in the Kohler at idle so as to avoid further damage to the shaft cplgs.
When you get the hydro oil level gauge replaced remove the oil filter and cut the case off w/ a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and check for metal on the filter paper. I don't know if the flow goes thru the outside of paper or inside it. It might help determine the condition of the hydro. If you see anything besides very fine brass particles, ie: iron, then it's probably headed for trouble. My guess, I don't know this to be fact.
Joe seems to have lots of parts so it might pay to look over his E-bay site. Hopefully you've found the needed parts in the other shed.
HTH,
Mike

#26 Delmar OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 12:11 PM

nade-em,

 

Only one way to sum up your purchase:

 

JD 314 = $650.00

Miscellaneous Ebay Parts = $100.00

Spending time with a long lost Brother = Priceless!

 

Money well spent my Friend!

 

 

yep!  that's it exactly!


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#27 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 12:29 PM

I gave $350 for my 314 w/ only a mower deck and the hydro was apart in a 5 gal bucket. One of the piston paks was trashed. With the attachments I think you did OK. I got a used hydro from joesoutdoorpower.com. While waiting for the hydro I checked the driveshaft over and found the key on the front cplg had worn 1/4 of the way around the coupling and the roll pin on the rear cplg had been replaced w/ a bolt. Replaced shaft w/ a good used one and drilled and tapped the front cplg for two setscrews 120* from each side of the key to help keep things tight. I also plan to up the idle speed to avoid the impulse vibration inherent in the Kohler at idle so as to avoid further damage to the shaft cplgs.
When you get the hydro oil level gauge replaced remove the oil filter and cut the case off w/ a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and check for metal on the filter paper. I don't know if the flow goes thru the outside of paper or inside it. It might help determine the condition of the hydro. If you see anything besides very fine brass particles, ie: iron, then it's probably headed for trouble. My guess, I don't know this to be fact.
Joe seems to have lots of parts so it might pay to look over his E-bay site. Hopefully you've found the needed parts in the other shed.
HTH,
Mike

 

Mike, those Kohlers in the JD's are supposed to be set to "idle at 22-2300 rpms. I know that sounds too high but that's what is in the JD manuals. The engine does not have the balance gears and with the rubber mounts the engine vibrates a lot if idled at a more typical speed. Also, the filter in the oil gauge does not filter the oil. It functions as a vent while allowing any oil vapour to condense on the element and run back into the base.


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#28 ol' stonebreaker ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 03:31 PM

Mike, those Kohlers in the JD's are supposed to be set to "idle at 22-2300 rpms. I know that sounds too high but that's what is in the JD manuals. The engine does not have the balance gears and with the rubber mounts the engine vibrates a lot if idled at a more typical speed. Also, the filter in the oil gauge does not filter the oil. It functions as a vent while allowing any oil vapour to condense on the element and run back into the base.

  Sorry, guess I should have been more clear. I mean't the spin on filter on the hydro. I hadn't checked the specs for idle speed. It really makes no difference for ground speed w/ the hydro so higher is better. JD probably set it that higher to avoid the damage I found on my driveshaft.

                                                  Mike


Edited by ol' stonebreaker, February 07, 2013 - 03:33 PM.


#29 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 04:55 PM

I had to replace the front coupler on my driveshaft. A big contributor to driveshaft coupler failure is motor mount failure. The mounts get weak and the engine vibrates more than it should and that's passed on to the couplers. Those plate mounts tend to rot out and get mushy as the rubber ages. The front ones are very expensive and only available from JD. They can still look OK from the top but often are cracked on the bottom and not doing a good job of keeping the engine in it's place. 


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#30 nade-em OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 06:29 PM

I think you did OK.  Yours looks cleaner than mine.  Mine looks worse than I did when it picked it up.  Driving an hour in the rain made it look real rough.  Where is the hour meter on your machine?

hour meter is on the dash , right below the steering wheel


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