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Etching Dip Or Paint For E-tanked Parts.


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#16 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 07:29 PM

   Don't forget to blow the KL dust off the NTM wheels before you paint.  :rolling:

FYI...IMHO   :smilewink: 



#17 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 10:20 PM

Couple points....

 

I use a rust converter called Ospho - is a phosphoric acid mix. Converts rust and prevents bare metal from rusting. Also tends to be a good surface to prime over.

 

Etching primers work good, but if you plan to use bondo or filler, note that they usually don't stick very well over etching primers. They also don't always seal out moisture, so you need to paint pretty quick after you prime (within a few days and protect your surface until you paint)

 

YMMV.....


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#18 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 11:09 PM

I have used Ospho before, comes in a plastic gallon jug, a few years ago. I didn't like how the paint went on over it. Maybe it works better now. Thanks !!



#19 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 10:39 AM

Ospho works great on bare metal. BUT when applied on top of a painted surface it sometimes takes a while to dry, or leaves an oily film on the paint.

 

You can put the part out in the sun or heat to dry it, or when you do the degreaser wipe down before you paint (always, always, always.....) the film comes off.

 

I use a comercial product (Degreaser/wax remover - no real brand preference, as long as its not the water based ones...) as a final wipe before painting to get all the dust, film and oils (even the ones from your hands...) off the surface. Oils and waxs can create "fish eyes" in your paint and dust hinders paint adhesion. Acetone or lacquer thinner works as well most of the time...

 

Sometimes Ospho leaves a white dust on the bare metal. I usually just use a pad of fine steel wool to get that off. Then the degreaser and ready to prime

 

For metals that have had rust on them, I usually use an epoxy primer out of a gun. Using rattle cans, I would go with one of the sandable primers. That should fill in any minor scratches, pits or other imperfections

 

An old trick you can use is to use a different color primer than your paint or base coat. Primer heavy, then block sand using a wet grit paper to take most of the primer off. Low spots, scratches, etc will still show primer surface. 2-3 cycles (with a rattle can) like this will fill in most scratches and small pits. You can use 2 different colors of primer alternately to see progress and low spots...

 

Paint is ALL about the prep.......


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