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Etching Dip Or Paint For E-tanked Parts.


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#1 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 05:44 PM

I am looking for something to put on my parts right after they come out of the E-tank to protect them til I can get them primed? What do you guys use for this? How do you dry your parts to get them ready for primer?

 

Thanks in Advance. :thumbs:


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#2 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 06:08 PM

What I do, is take the parts, one at a time, wire brush & water hose (as much as needed),

air gun dry, wipe with final wipe solvent, and get a light coat of self etching primer on.

After they're all safe and sound, I'll put the rest of the primer on.


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#3 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 06:09 PM

When I had mine tank going, it was warm outside. As soon as they dried, I hit them with the Rust Reformer. Then I knew they wouldn't rust again real soon.


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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 06:20 PM

If the humidity is low I don't worry too much about painting them right away. I usually run over them with a wire wheel anyway before a final rinse with solvent then primer or paint. In places with high humidity I know you have to act quickly to prevent flash rusting.


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#5 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 06:24 PM

On small parts, once cleaned, I blow with compressed air, then if I'm not ready to primer, I just put them inside my sandblast cabinet.  They almost never rust when I place them in there dry.  If they do rust slightly, I just give them a light blast, take them out, wipe clean, then prime.

  If good & dry weather, after cleaning from the e-tank, I will blow dry, then spray can prime immediately.


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#6 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2013 - 09:30 PM

Thanks guys, I've still got the dash soaking in the tank and I need to get it out and do something with it.



#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 06:11 AM

Brian I find it works best for me when I take the part out at least once during the process and rinse it, then wire brush any loose paint off it then put it back in in a different orientation. This keeps the big paint flakes out of the tank. It varies a lot from part to part. I've noticed that if something is a bit greasy it slows things down so I try to de grease them before starting. I need to put new anodes in my tank this year. I got 2 years out of the ones that are in there.


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#8 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 06:45 AM

Brian you don't have the humidity that we have here and that helps, but once I have the part cleaned and ready for primer, I put it in a closed bag (trash bag etc.) with a generous supply of kitty litter. Its best to prime quickly but not always convenient. This way I don't have to coat for storage, or worry about cleaning again before prime/paint. If a little surface rust shows up, its easy to remove. Just blow off the KL dust and your ready to go.


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#9 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 07:38 AM

Brian you don't have the humidity that we have here and that helps, but once I have the part cleaned and ready for primer, I put it in a closed bag (trash bag etc.) with a generous supply of kitty litter. Its best to prime quickly but not always convenient. This way I don't have to coat for storage, or worry about cleaning again before prime/paint. If a little surface rust shows up, its easy to remove. Just blow off the KL dust and your ready to go.

 

Good idea on the kitty litter bag!!

 

?? what's "KL dust" ?

 

 

edit

 

Now that I've had my coffee, and I'm sitting here looking at my post

I've figured out what KL dust is. Duh...


Edited by IamSherwood, February 07, 2013 - 07:40 AM.

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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 07:42 AM

That's all right, Will. You'll get up to speed after a few more cups!


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#11 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 07:50 AM

Thanks Kenny.

I'm just about there.

1 more cup



#12 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 07:48 PM

Brian I find it works best for me when I take the part out at least once during the process and rinse it, then wire brush any loose paint off it then put it back in in a different orientation. 

 

I do the same Brian, and the larger or crustier the piece, the more often I do it.


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#13 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 08:34 PM

Daniel I consider electrolysis tanks to be kind of as magic gift to anyone restoring old iron. It's not fast like a blaster but it sure is easier than a wire wheel and cheap as well. It's kind of rare to find something that saves you work and doesn't cost you a fortune.


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#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 08:03 AM

I like using it. I want to run the 'NTM' wheels for the FF thru the tank. Be a lot easier to clean them. That will take cleaning some and rotating them to get all surfaces.


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#15 Toolpartzman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 06:57 PM

I like using it. I want to run the 'NTM' wheels for the FF thru the tank. Be a lot easier to clean them. That will take cleaning some and rotating them to get all surfaces.

   Don't forget to blow the KL dust off the NTM wheels before you paint.  :rolling:


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