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#1 jacottrill OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2013 - 03:26 PM

I bought an old Economy Jim Dandy tractor yesterday. A 1977 model serial # 42858. I have always owned Gravley's but this Economy became available. It was stuck in 3rd gear. I took the top off the transmission and the shifter and shifting lever and forks were all seized up. Got it all cleaned up and back in neutral. Question. The shifting fork is worn as is described on the website.  How do I go about getting the pin out of the shifting lever to pull it out to have it welded and repaired ? I compressed it and tried pulling it out with nippers. The pin is loose and rotates easily but I can't get it out to repair. I don't want to man handle it and break something. Also, where can I buy an owners manual and a repair manual ? I have a roto-tiller with it, a snow blade and a mower and a bunch of parts but NO idea where or how they all fit in. The guy who sold it didn't know anything about it. Can you help me or point me to a real good Power King/Economy mentor ? I'm out in the boonies in the mountains of Maine and could sure use some help. I would also like to put a new hyd pump belt on but it looks like I have to pull the motor.  Is there an easier method ?
 

jacottrill at roadrunner dot com


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#2 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2013 - 03:31 PM

Welcome to GTtalk, glad you joined us here. I Edited your post to protect you from getting spam. If you want to post your E-mail do it as I have and maybe you won't get overrun by Spam-Bots

 

Again, Welcome to GTtalk, and I hope you get the answer your looking for.


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#3 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2013 - 04:16 PM

You do have to pull the engine unless you use a good link belt.  My advice, unbolt the engine (and everything else that goes with it), pull the engine forward, put two new belts in there.  If your old one is still going, use it and tie the other two up where they don't get in the way.  When the original breaks, loosen the hydraulic pump, put one of the new belts on, tighten and continue.  You can take this a step further and pull the engine enough to check the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing.  Replace anything that needs replace, put it back together and let the next owner worry about it in 25 years.  Welcome.  I'm glad you took my advice and joined.  Uhhh, before anyone else says it, WE WANT PICTURES!


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#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 05, 2013 - 04:27 PM

The flat ball end on shifter needs welding build-up and grinding flat on two sides. Guess you got that info as noted. Yes, to change belt,  you must pull front tin and move motor ahead. You Can just remove the small clutch cover bolts and pull motor with flywheel and bellhouse left on. There is enough space around flywheel to squeeze the belt in. Trying to remove the flywheel can be  quite hard. Put two belts in, tie one back somehow for future problem. OR, there are link belts that you can make into any length and reconnect after you put into housing around shafts. Diff brands seem to hold up better than others, not sure which to buy. 

  There's not much for manuals on PK's. Some on here. Your tractor is a Later one with bigger frame than early Jim Dandy, so make sure you get correct one. Larry Goss on YahooGroups/powerking has a thumb drive file for about $10 and has everything about PK known on it it seems. Might wanna contact him and get one. Maybe someone here has that email?  Parts diagrams are about the only Manuals they really had and you can follow them to install things. Most front items and mower drives will hang off those four slotted blocks under the front frame area. Some tractors have manual lifts with ratchet arc and others have hydraulics. Which is yours? You probly have a "lift" hitch on back, and not true 3pt on Jim Dandy.

   We will need lots of pictures to make any more judgements and suggestions...heh!    


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#5 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 05:17 PM

That pin on the side of the cone comes out after you get the shift lever out. Take the top off the transmission 4 bolts . Then you have to take out the welsh plugs on the end of the two shifter rods. If your carefull you can reuse them. On the side of the trans cover there is a screw you have to take out then some of the detent springs and balls come out DON"T lose them  when you remove the two shifter rods more will come out  try to remember the order they came out.  On the shifter rods?rails are yokes they are held in place with origional hollow pins or small roll pins if someone has had them out before. Take pictures so you can get the yokes back on the right way. When the rails are out you can get to the cone shaped spring around the shift lever . Remove it and then the shift lever comes out the bottom. Don't lose that pin.  Actually you only have to remove one rail but it's easier to remove both. The welsh plugs and the roll pins are available at some auto parts stores.


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#6 Ryan313 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 06:05 PM

Just saw this thread, somehow missed it! It looks like your questions have been answered though. Like dave said, the first thing you have to do is take the pugs out of the ends; to do this you have to hit the yokes (try not to bend them) with a hammer. Once the plugs are out you can slide the rails around to where you can get the pins out. I have been wanting to do a step by step tutorial that explains everything on this process for a while now, hopefully I can do it this weekend.


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#7 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted February 08, 2013 - 07:40 PM

I have been wanting to do a step by step tutorial that explains everything on this process for a while now, hopefully I can do it this weekend.

That's something that would be great to add to our running thread on these tractors.  The one we're still trying to get made into a sticky.


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#8 jacottrill OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2013 - 05:53 PM

Have any of you ever had a brake lever (connects to the brake band-has the brake cable attached to it) seize up ? I have one that is broken off and I have tried everything to get it to turn. I didn't want to put heat on it because of the cast iron gear housing. Any experience with this problem ? Suggestions ?  It's a 1977 Economy Jim Dandy 1614.





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