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1982 314 Finds New Home


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#31 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 06:50 PM

Hey ! I need that starter!! :smilewink:

 

For the right price the entire tractor can be yours AND delivered to Ohio later this month.   :smilewink:

 

I thought about sending it back to Ohio with Dad but want to try to get it going after the 120 is done. :thumbs:


Edited by Trav1s, February 07, 2013 - 06:51 PM.

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#32 nade-em OFFLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 06:55 PM

For the right price the entire tractor can be yours AND delivered to Ohio later this month.   :smilewink:

 

I thought about sending it back to Ohio with Dad but want to try to get it going after the 120 is done. :thumbs:

HAHA! My wife just said" oh no, not another project, you have too many already!" :D


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#33 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 07, 2013 - 07:31 PM

HAHA! My wife just said" oh no, not another project, you have too many already!" :D

I got that after the 314 arrived home. :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling: :rolling:


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#34 larryd OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 10:47 AM

I believe it will make you a great project .

 

larryd



#35 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 01:39 PM

Travis, check the driveshaft for slack before running it. The couplers wear and can ruin the input shaft to the hydro if not repaired. Also bad motor mounts are a contributing factor to the drive shaft problem. Looks in pretty good shape overall. Much better than the one I bought in 2011.


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#36 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 06:59 PM

Played with the 314 a bit today. The battery in it was bad so I swapped in the battery from the 120 along with new cables to the block and solenoid. It cranks fast and hard with the plug in place. I also removed the front tires in prep for new tires next week.

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#37 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 07:04 PM

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#38 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 07:21 PM

Travis, check the driveshaft for slack before running it. The couplers wear and can ruin the input shaft to the hydro if not repaired. Also bad motor mounts are a contributing factor to the drive shaft problem. Looks in pretty good shape overall. Much better than the one I bought in 2011.

 

I checked the mounts out while messing with it today.  They look good to me.  I checked the engine side of the drive shaft and it looks pretty good too.  Everything I can find tells me that all repairs were done at the local Deere dealer.  The Deere battery that was in it was a pleasant surprise... to bad it was toast.  I will check the back half of the drive shaft with the next round of garage time.  I would suspect that the drive shaft was replaced when it was long blocked in 1998 - at least that is what I am estimating from labels and markings on the engine tins.  Thanks for the suggestions!!!!


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#39 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 07:26 PM

One last thought... as much as I love the old RF's this 314 is a more than worthy replacement for the old 110 I sold in January.    :thumbs:  I have also noticed changes made between the 120 (end of the '71 model year) and the 314 (early 1982).  Deere is good with improving on an already good design.


Edited by Trav1s, February 09, 2013 - 07:38 PM.

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#40 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 09, 2013 - 09:20 PM

If the couplers are bad you can tell by grabbing the shaft and turning it in both directions. If there is any slack it will turn easily in one direction or the other. The key tends to beat out the keyway in the front one and the pin in the back one will wear the hole in the coupler. Mine had a lot of wear in the front coupler. My motor mounts were also shot.

     When you get it running the idle should be set high on these at 2200rpms. The engine does not have the counter balancer so if you try to idle it at a more typical RPM it will shake the tin right off the tractor. 


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#41 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2013 - 08:30 AM

If the couplers are bad you can tell by grabbing the shaft and turning it in both directions. If there is any slack it will turn easily in one direction or the other. The key tends to beat out the keyway in the front one and the pin in the back one will wear the hole in the coupler. Mine had a lot of wear in the front coupler. My motor mounts were also shot.

     When you get it running the idle should be set high on these at 2200rpms. The engine does not have the counter balancer so if you try to idle it at a more typical RPM it will shake the tin right off the tractor. 

 

What's the easiest way to set the idle that high?  Seems to really be buzzing.  I wonder if there are some poly bushings from the auto world that would work in place of the rubber pieces...


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#42 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2013 - 01:02 PM

I use a digital tachometer to set it. The engine does not have the counterbalancer and it needs to rev that high to avoid exciting the resonance of the rubber mounts which causes more vibration. You could just turn up the idle until the vibration level is low I guess. 


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#43 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2013 - 01:11 PM

I just went to the garage and grabbed the driveshaft.  It is TIGHT and has NO slop in it. I would guess it was replaced with the long block in 1998.  Time to pick up a basic digital tach to add to my tool stash.


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#44 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 09:43 AM

I use a digital tachometer to set it. The engine does not have the counterbalancer and it needs to rev that high to avoid exciting the resonance of the rubber mounts which causes more vibration. You could just turn up the idle until the vibration level is low I guess. 

 

Do you have a service manual for this?  Any suggestions for adjusting the Walbro carb in there?  Me no likes Walbro carbs...


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#45 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 05:26 PM

Do you have the Kohler service manual. There is good info in there on adjusting the carb. 


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