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Bolens G174


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#61 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 05, 2013 - 08:43 AM

Never hurts to replace both its amazing to me u work 10 hrs a day then come home an work on the "boliseki" love it I been reading every update.... Keep it up u will be plowing a garden the nice thing about the iseki is you not limited to Bolens attachments you can use the pto an 3pt at the same time... Ur goin to love it I wish I could be there when u fire that baby up for the first time

#62 fxrs55 ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 12:16 AM

I had some time Thursday night so I put the alternator back together

and put it back on the tractor.

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#63 fxrs55 ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 06:59 PM

I was cleaning some of the items that will go back on the head
and I found the original owner had installed a block heater.
It was installed in the temp sending unit hole. But they used
a tee to use the heater and the temp sending unit. check the
pictures and you will see that the plumbing fittings had
clogged around where the temp sending unit was. For
now I'm going to just install the temp sending and hold off
on the block heater.

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#64 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 07:30 PM

I recommend a block heater. The glow plugs on these are not real strong, I find the best way to start it is plug it in for 10-15 minutes when going from dead cold.



#65 fxrs55 ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 08:57 PM

I recommend a block heater. The glow plugs on these are not real strong, I find the best way to start it is plug it in for 10-15 minutes when going from dead cold.

Do you have a picture of how yours is installed?



#66 fxrs55 ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 09:08 PM

I installed the head and rocker arms yesterday. I put a few drops
of engine oil on the head bolt threads and under bolt heads
to help get a better torque reading when tightening bolts.
I pumped oil with my squeeze bottle into the rocker
arm shaft before installing rockers onto head. After I adjusted the valve lash
I removed the injector pump and cranked engine over to check oil
pressure to the rocker arms . After I was happy with oil flow

I installed the valve cover, injector pump, injectors, injector lines,

fuel filter and fuel lines. paperclip.png

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#67 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted April 06, 2013 - 09:31 PM

Do you have a picture of how yours is installed?

Right behind the starter
image346.jpg image.jpg


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#68 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 07:11 AM

You have been doing great work. Both as a mechanic and a photographer. I am enjoying your thread. Just a little note here. If this had been taken to a tractor shop, they would not have done as good a job. Noone in business could put the time and care that you have. Keep it up. Good Luck, Rick


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#69 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 07:19 AM

Hmm I never had any trouble with the glow plugs in my h1502 but maybe they are 2 different animals

#70 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 08:05 AM

What voltage reading do you get on the glow plugs when you activate them, Sam? I get two very different readings depending on whether I have the glow plug indicator hooked up. I need to run new, heavier wire maybe.



#71 fxrs55 ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 09:05 PM

Started Bolseki yesterday here is a video.

 


Edited by fxrs55, April 07, 2013 - 09:18 PM.

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#72 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted April 07, 2013 - 11:04 PM

Great progress. I'm having trouble with youtube, the sound isn't working. What did you do about the injectors?



#73 fxrs55 ONLINE  

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Posted April 10, 2013 - 09:17 PM

 It was a big thrill to start her up for the first time.
On the video you can see that first try ended with a low
and under powered battery. I hooked up the charger to the battery
and 2nd try was a success. Monday I removed the muffler because
one of the flanges is broke and leaking. Tractor has a clutch
problem also. I found that the clutch pedal has a twist in the
bracket that attaches to the rod leading to the throw out bearing.
I removed the clutch pedal today to fix it. What a job
that is. I'm also not happy with the wiring harness so I removed
harness and dash to do some reworking.

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#74 fxrs55 ONLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2013 - 12:11 AM

Here are a few pictures of the clutch pedal removal.
The right brake pedal is held onto the shaft with a snap ring.
The right pedal uses the shaft as a pivot point. The left
brake pedal is held onto the shaft with a 6mm pin which has to be driven

out with a drift punch and hammer. ( what a pain in the @##$#)

In order to remove the clutch pedal you have to pull the left brake shaft out

the left side of the tractor.  You have to remove the right foot board to drive

the pin out of the left brake pedal.

I removed the left foot board because I am also going to do some painting to tractor
frame while I have these parts off. There is also a few pictures of the modifications

I made to the clutch pedal to reinforce the area
that twisted. there are several return springs attached
to all three pedals that could cause some pain if they were
to slip while you remove them. I found that an automotive
brake spring tool worked great in removing springs from tractor pedals.
You have to also remove the diff lock pedal to remove right foot board.

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Edited by fxrs55, April 13, 2013 - 12:13 AM.

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#75 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted April 13, 2013 - 10:04 AM

Congratulations on a fine running engine. That had to put an ear to ear grin on your face. :D


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