Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Bolens G174


  • Please log in to reply
229 replies to this topic

#46 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:59 PM

That is very cool. If the emblem is too big for the grill, place it on the back of the seat. Are you reusing the rings. I've done it many times over the years where just running croacus cloth around the rings brings them back to work like new. I find that the cleaning of the groves solved most of the problems. Keep up the good work. Good Luck, Rick 

I am reusing the rings and I am cleaning them with crocus cloth. The rings

look very good and I don't want to put to much money into tractor

until I get it running and also see if there are other problems.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 100_5393.JPG

Edited by fxrs55, March 28, 2013 - 09:01 PM.

  • boyscout862 and JRJ have said thanks

#47 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted March 28, 2013 - 09:09 PM

I cut the old fuel filter open and it was clogged with

rust and dirt. I do need to clean and flush out the fuel tank.

I found an oem filter on E-Bay but the guy wants $90.

Really? $90 for a fuel filter  ( HA HA HA!!! )

Attached Thumbnails

  • 100_5374.JPG
  • 100_5375.JPG
  • 100_5376.JPG

  • boyscout862 and JRJ have said thanks

#48 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted March 28, 2013 - 09:20 PM

I checked the side gap clearance on the rings and

all four rings are within factory tolerances.

I also sprayed the red insulating varnish on the

alternator windings and it looks like it might work

out well.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 100_5377.JPG
  • 100_5380.JPG
  • side gap.JPG

  • boyscout862 and JRJ have said thanks

#49 Cat385B ONLINE  

Cat385B

    Therapy CAT

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8002
  • 11,753 Thanks
  • 8,923 posts
  • Location: MN

Posted March 28, 2013 - 09:36 PM

I cut the old fuel filter open and it was clogged with

rust and dirt. I do need to clean and flush out the fuel tank.

I found an oem filter on E-Bay but the guy wants $90.

Really? $90 for a fuel filter  ( HA HA HA!!! )

 

NAPA Gold 3264 is a suitable replacement, but a tight fit. The NAPA filter is 2 1/4" long, and is very snug when tightened back up. But $12 sounds better than $90.

 

Looking at yours, your canister is different. Is it threaded? On mine, the lower portion is held to the upper with four small set screws.

 

Oops, never mind. I enlarged the pics, I see the set screw locations now.


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#50 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted March 28, 2013 - 09:43 PM

This is the smaller size emblem I made it today.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 100_5394.JPG
  • 100_5395.JPG

  • boyscout862 and JRJ have said thanks

#51 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

1967bolens collector

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1920
  • 649 Thanks
  • 1,437 posts
  • Location: carney's point new jersey

Posted March 28, 2013 - 09:45 PM

I did spend over 8 hours machining a 2 inch thick aluminum plate into a new transom plate

for my friends boat. At $80 shop rate that works out to $640. I don't make that much per hour

but that would be our shop rate.

 

 

yea but you got a nice tractor out of it. they go for good money. if it had a loader and was painted with new decals its 4500.00 to 5k tractor. but like i said if you need any info on the tractor or parts i have a friend name jim hixon in north jersey an he has alot of stuff for them iseki tractors and large frames. where in jersey are you located? im 5 miles from the DE bridge.. 90 bucks for a fuel filter hes nuts i got a iseki H1502 and i get my filters from napa


Edited by 1967bolens collector, March 28, 2013 - 09:49 PM.


#52 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted March 28, 2013 - 10:20 PM

yea but you got a nice tractor out of it. they go for good money. if it had a loader and was painted with new decals its 4500.00 to 5k tractor. but like i said if you need any info on the tractor or parts i have a friend name jim hixon in north jersey an he has alot of stuff for them iseki tractors and large frames. where in jersey are you located? im 5 miles from the DE bridge.. 90 bucks for a fuel filter hes nuts i got a iseki H1502 and i get my filters from napa

I do realize what your saying I'm just trying not to get excited

until I get it running. It does look way cool just sitting there.

I'm in Tabernacle.


  • JRJ said thank you

#53 boyscout862 ONLINE  

boyscout862
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8923
  • 9,804 Thanks
  • 7,544 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted March 28, 2013 - 10:43 PM

Was your hone a glaze breaker or a truing type? I stepped up to a Sunnen truing and I think that it gives a slightly better job. You are doing a great job and I hope that you have it running soon. Good Luck, Rick



#54 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

1967bolens collector

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 1920
  • 649 Thanks
  • 1,437 posts
  • Location: carney's point new jersey

Posted March 29, 2013 - 07:51 AM

I do realize what your saying I'm just trying not to get excited

until I get it running. It does look way cool just sitting there.

I'm in Tabernacle.

 

 

 

ok i know where that is... your tearing everything down an looks like your doing iit right so as long as shes got compression, fuel and air it should run.. "remember a diesel engine CAN NOT have air in the fuel system you have to bleed the injectors and theres most likely another bleeder screw some where before the injectors" i dont know if you ever worked on diesels before so i just thought i would throw that out there..


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#55 bhts OFFLINE  

bhts

    Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 945
  • 1,415 Thanks
  • 2,118 posts
  • Location: ohio

Posted March 29, 2013 - 08:32 AM

Looking good if you need the fuel filter I have the OEM ones here a lot cheaper the the ebay one.


Edited by bhts, March 29, 2013 - 08:33 AM.


#56 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted March 30, 2013 - 11:04 PM

I picked up a gallon of Rotella oil and I started to flush the oil passages.
I removed pipe plugs the check valve from oil pump and
the oil pressure sending unit. I then using a squeeze pump
pumped oil into the oil passages until it started to flow
out at the various bearings and lube points I also had
oil flow through the crankshaft. I also ran an M14 tap

into the head bolt holes to clean out the gunk and

some rust. I want the threads clean so I get the right

torque reading. Dirty threads will give a false reading

and the bolts most of the time will not be tight enough.

Attached Thumbnails

  • check.JPG
  • crank oil.JPG
  • pipe plug.jpg
  • tapping2.jpg
  • tapping.jpg
  • unit.jpg

Edited by fxrs55, March 31, 2013 - 03:18 PM.

  • HowardsMF155, Newpaws493, JRJ and 1 other said thanks

#57 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted March 31, 2013 - 08:58 PM

Saturday I was able to do some more work to the tractor. I started by

putting rubber fuel line over rod bolts so they didn't damage the

crankshaft when I put pistons back in engine. I put my ring compressor

on the piston and pushed it into the cylinder. I did put assembly lube

on the rod bearings and installed rods onto the crankshaft. I finally

cleaned up the oil pan. It was full of black sludge but that sludge

probably kept the oil pan from rusting on the inside since

it had about a pint of water in it when I drained it. After I cleaned

the inside I sanded the outside which was rusty and blah.

After wiping it down with lacquer thinner and gave it several

coats of semi gloss black paint. After pan dried I installed it and

installed a new oil filter and filled the crankcase with fresh oil.

One of my big concerns was if the oil pump was going to work.

I pumped all of the oil passages with oil and put plugs back in and

installed the battery. I put motor oil in the cylinders and Cranked the engine

over with the starter. While I was cranking I keep spraying oil into the

cylinders and after about a minute or so I got oil pressure and oil came

out the oil line to the head and the rocker arms. I am so excited. next

up is I need to press two new valve guides into the head and assemble

the valves back into the head and install head onto the engine.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 100_5416.JPG
  • 100_5417.JPG
  • 100_5418.JPG
  • 100_5419.JPG
  • 100_5420.JPG
  • 100_5421.JPG
  • 100_5422.JPG
  • 100_5423.JPG
  • 100_5425.JPG
  • 100_5426.JPG
  • 100_54243.JPG
  • cap.JPG

Edited by fxrs55, March 31, 2013 - 09:16 PM.

  • Cvans, boyscout862, JRJ and 1 other said thanks

#58 Cat385B ONLINE  

Cat385B

    Therapy CAT

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 8002
  • 11,753 Thanks
  • 8,923 posts
  • Location: MN

Posted March 31, 2013 - 09:09 PM

Hard to not be an optimist at this point. It sounds like everything is going back together well. I'm hoping this goes good for you the rest of the way.

 

With mine operational, my original plan was to re-sell it for a profit. But after using the snowblower on mine, which I did a lot of work to, I have decided to keep my G152 and sell my other snowblowing tractor. Even though I'm going from a hydro back to a gear drive with the Bolens, I just love how little fuel these units burn. Liquid cooled engine that I could tap for a heater in a future cab had no bearing on the decision whatsoever.

 

I just wish I had your mechanical abilities and knowledge. Thanks for guiding us through this, I'm learning quite a bit.



#59 Cvans ONLINE  

Cvans

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5412
  • 4,522 Thanks
  • 5,033 posts
  • Location: Eastern SD.

Posted March 31, 2013 - 09:52 PM

I've enjoyed your project so far and your photos have been very good. Can't wait for the smell of burnt diesel.  :thumbs:


  • SamMC said thank you

#60 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

fxrs55
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 10152
  • 337 Thanks
  • 239 posts
  • Location: new jersey

Posted April 02, 2013 - 09:40 PM

I've enjoyed your project so far and your photos have been very good. Can't wait for the smell of burnt diesel.  :thumbs:

Thanks.  I am working on this after I get home from work. We work 10 hour days

but I have been going in to work by 5 AM so I can sand blast

and paint parts for the Bolens.  I received some new parts in the mail the other day

so now I can start to reassemble. Monday I took the head to work to replace a valve guide.

I had to machine a tool to press out the old guide and press in the new one.

I bought two new valve guides but after checking all of the bores of the valve guides only one was worn out.  When I got home last night I was able to lap the valve with the new valve

guide so now all valves are ready for valve seals and then springs . I did install
the new valve seals tonight and then the new valve springs.

The head is now ready to go back on tractor.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 100_5429.JPG
  • 100_5431.JPG
  • 100_5435.JPG
  • 100_5436.JPG
  • 100_5437.JPG
  • 100_5438.JPG

Edited by fxrs55, April 02, 2013 - 09:40 PM.

  • boyscout862, Newpaws493, JRJ and 1 other said thanks




Top