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Bolens G174


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#31 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2013 - 06:50 PM

I squirted some kroil into the rear cylinder lifter/tappet
bores and left it sit a few days and today I was able to
use a magnet to get lifters out. A little cleaning and
I think they will be good to go.

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#32 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2013 - 07:06 PM

Looks like you are making good progress. Good Luck, Rick



#33 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 12, 2013 - 11:04 PM

Well I have been studying the injector pump for days.
Two weeks ago I removed the delivery valve holders
and the delivery valve seats from the top of the injector
pump. There was no gunk or crud clogging anything
and I flushed everything with kerosene. I have had
the pump submerged in kerosene for a week or so.
I finally felt that the way I was trying to test the pump was
not the way to do it. Today I lubed the rollers and the
plungers in the pump and installed it on the engine.
I then cleaned up the injector lines that go from
the pump to the nozzle holders. I tightened the lines
to the pump and then I attached the lines to the
nozzle holders. ( injectors ) I rigged up a small
fuel tank and installed a battery. I lubed up
the cylinders just to protect them and the rings
while I cranked over the engine. I then cranked
over the engine using the starter and while engine
was turning I held the throttle lever to full throttle
and after several attempts, Hot dog she pumps and
the discharge at the injectors was even and strong.
Next stop is to remove oil pan and then pistons to
check rings. Here are a few pictures.

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#34 Newpaws493 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 06:03 AM

Sounds like sweet progress! :thumbs: Thanks for all the details



#35 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 07:37 PM

Well I did work on the tractor today and my findings are not good.

As I said before the injector pump is shot.

Now what else I have found, there is no compression

in the front cylinder and the back on is low. The engine

oil is way over full and black as coal.  I have

both injectors removed and I have turned the engine

over with the starter several times and am not

getting any oil pressure nor any oil to the rockers.

The air filter looks like it was never changed and

the rubber gasket that goes between the filter

and the filter housing is hard as a rock and half of it is missing.

This thing suffers serious neglect. God only knows

what problems there are with the hydraulics and the transmission.

 

 

im sure the hydos are fine. they were built pretty good i have a H1502 diesel with 1300hrs my dad bought it band new and never had a single problem with the tractor other then the factory belly mower that was always a problem so i got a 3pt land pride finishing mower, problem solved


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#36 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2013 - 08:32 PM

I was able to work on the tractor today after the 2 min sleet storm.

I wanted to drop the oil pan so I could remove the pistons.

So I started to remove the drain plug first so I screwed the drain plug

out slowly so I didn't drop it the drain pan. When the plug

was right on the last thread thin liquid started coming out.

Well it was about 1 1/2 pints of water. I was nervous now

wandering what might be rusted from the water.

Anyway once I got the pan off there was no rust inside

crankcase/engine block and there was enough sludge

in the bottom of the pan that it kept the pan from rusting.

After I removed the front piston I could see that the

rings were stuck in the ring grooves and that cylinder

is the one that had NO compression. I only removed

the front piston and after I got it out I put it a container

of kerosene to soak. After about a 1/2 hour or so

the top ring became loose and it popped loose

from the ring groove. The other two compression rings

took a little assistance but the 2nd ring now rotates in the groove.

One ring to go. Also the oil control ring was not stuck.

The rod bearings look almost new and the crank journal

was spotless. Tomorrow I'll take out the other piston

and I need to sort out the oil pump also. Here are

a few pictures

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Edited by fxrs55, March 13, 2013 - 08:39 PM.

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#37 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2013 - 06:55 PM

The other day I was able to get the last ring loose on the first
piston and next I'll need to clean the piston and grooves.
I was able to work on the Bolens today. First thing I did was to
removed the rear piston. The rings look to be in good shape and
the rod bearings also look good. Next I removed
two 1/8" ahhh I mean 6mm pipe plugs next to the oil pump.
These are the oil passages from the oil pickup in the oil pan
to the oil pump. They were some what clogged so with a squeeze bottle
I pumped kerosene through them several times until the kerosene flowed through easily.

I also removed the check valve from the oil pump
and flushed kerosene through there also. Now that I know the
other piston and rod bearings are ok I can now make a list
of parts I am going to need and get them ordered.


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#38 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2013 - 08:38 PM

Don't stop now your making good headway.  :thumbs:



#39 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 18, 2013 - 05:16 PM

You are doing real well. That tractor found the right mechanic to take care of it. Good Luck, Rick



#40 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 26, 2013 - 10:08 PM

I was able to hone the cylinders over the weekend and I washed

the inside of the cylinders with soap and warm water. After

that I sprayed them down with sea foam which does a nice

job of cleaning and it leaves an oil coating that keeps

the rust away. I also removed the rings from the pistons

and then I cleaned the ring grooves and the carbon from

the pistons. While waiting for parts I removed the alternator

which was half fast painted black and I could see rust

inside on the diode assembly. I disassembled the alternator

and found that from setting for the last 12 years

the wires to the diodes corroded and flaked the insulation off.

I sand blasted the aluminum housing parts. I bought new bearings

and ordered a can of red insulating varnish to

recoat the windings. I also sand blasted some of

the body parts for repainting.

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Edited by fxrs55, March 26, 2013 - 10:12 PM.

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#41 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 27, 2013 - 08:58 PM

I was working on the grill last week, It was missing two of the mounting
tabs so I made new ones and welded them on at work. I then sand blasted
the grill and painted it semi gloss black. While I was working on the grill

I noticed two holes in the lower right corner. I found a few pictures on the net of iseki tractors and there is some kind of emblem bolted through those holes. I can't tell what it says so I am going to make my own. Here are a few pictures of my proto type emblem. I need to machine all four sides to make emblem a little more fancy. Also the red insulating varnish came in today so I think I may spray the alternator windings tomorrow. I'm doing these side jobs while I wait for the parts I ordered to come in the mail. My emblem says Bolseki for now. I ran emblem through one of our machining centers at lunch today and I think the emblem is to big. Need to run another one tomorrow but I'll make it smaller

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#42 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:50 AM

That is very cool. If the emblem is too big for the grill, place it on the back of the seat. Are you reusing the rings. I've done it many times over the years where just running croacus cloth around the rings brings them back to work like new. I find that the cleaning of the groves solved most of the problems. Keep up the good work. Good Luck, Rick 



#43 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 09:06 AM

so you got a iseki G154 for basicly for free and its 4x4 man where am i at for these deals that tractor with a paint job and new decals is worth arounk 2500 to 3k it would be super if it had a loader.. if you need parts theres a guy name jim in north jersey that can hook you up with what ever you need



#44 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 09:08 AM

i was not following this forum i see you have it tore down so you know what your doing i assume



#45 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 28, 2013 - 08:49 PM

so you got a iseki G154 for basicly for free and its 4x4 man where am i at for these deals that tractor with a paint job and new decals is worth arounk 2500 to 3k it would be super if it had a loader.. if you need parts theres a guy name jim in north jersey that can hook you up with what ever you need

I did spend over 8 hours machining a 2 inch thick aluminum plate into a new transom plate

for my friends boat. At $80 shop rate that works out to $640. I don't make that much per hour

but that would be our shop rate.






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