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#151 C130A Flight Engineer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2013 - 03:21 PM

Well Don, see what I mean about shortcuts!

#152 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2013 - 09:48 PM

I had my camcorder setup while I did some assembly yesterday and I did some commentary as I went along but apparently the head needed cleaning and its not working at this time. Anyway here a few more pictures. Also the bearings on the end of the PTO shaft are a press fit and not easy to use a press to press them onto the shaft. You don't want to just pound them on there with a hammer. Could break something and its not good for the bearings. I put the bearings one at a time onto a 60 watt light bulb to heat them up enough to slip onto the shaft without a press or hammer. Wearing a glove to protect my hand from the hot bearing I was able to slide the bearings onto the shaft with ease. I used a small c-clamp to press the split pins into place. I didn't want to use a hammer to bang them in. That would not be good for that shaft hanging out with no support under it. You may end up wrecking the bearings or crack the shaft housing also. Also make sure the split in the pin is in line with rotation . I used Yamabond #4 on all of the gaskets.

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Edited by fxrs55, August 12, 2013 - 10:50 PM.

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#153 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2013 - 09:55 PM

You can also heat your bearings in hot motor oil. Warm the oil to 250 degs. and place your bearing in the oil. Let it set there for about 10 to 15 minutes and it should slip right on the shaft. I've used this method many times. Resist the urge to heat the oil any hotter or it will start to break down. If you think it is going to be an extremely tight fit you can place the shaft in a freezer while the bearing is heating. This last step is usually not necessary.


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#154 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 04:54 AM

Wednesday after work I was able to finally put the two halves of tractor

back together.  It takes a little fiddling with those sections to get

them to slide together along with lining up the front wheel

drive shaft so it slides together also. Here are a few pictures.

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Edited by fxrs55, August 16, 2013 - 04:56 AM.

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#155 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 12:35 PM

I can almost smell the diesel smoke.  :D



#156 C130A Flight Engineer OFFLINE  

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Posted August 16, 2013 - 10:24 PM

OOO RAH!

#157 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2013 - 07:15 AM

This is the rest of the story from Wednesday when I first put the two halves together.

After I checked all the bell housing to engine block
bolts I removed The beam from my A frame and proceeded to fold up the ladders

and put away anything no longer needed. I was plotting the assembly order and
I decided to check the clearance between the throw out bearing and the

fingers on the pressure plate. Well there was none and its is suppose to be
around .020 hummm.  I backed the adjustment rod out to the end of the threads

and still no clearance.  And now the spring towers on the pressure plate were

hitting the clutch linkage inside the bell housing when I turned the engine over by hand.

Dang it! Its around 9:00 pm Wednesday night so I've had enough.

I go in the house take a shower and find something for dinner. Now I hear the tractor
out in the garage mocking me so I go back out, put the A frame back together and split the darn
thing in half again. Then back in the house and go to bed. My alarm goes off at 4:00 AM.

Thursday I look at the parts manual to see what all is in the bell housing
that is part of the throw out bearing and linkage or the arm which they call the yoke. They list a
shim that goes between the mount for the yoke and the bell housing. If I could move
that assembly back in the bell housing It would help with the clearance.

So when does a shim become a spacer? That shim someone put in there was home made

and 7/16" thick! Where I come from that it is a spacer.

I made a new "shim" that was 1/4" thick and put it in and assembled yoke back on the
bell housing. That helped but not enough. I made another shim out of 1/8" thick steel and put that
in where it goes and re assemble the yoke assembly and checked the dimension

and now its at 3.75 which is what its suppose to be. I don't know why someone
made that spacer so thick but that threw everything out. They adjusted

the fingers on the pressure plate to get clearance between the bearing

and the pressure plate fingers but that threw them out of tolerance to the point

where the pressure plate fingers were almost hitting the clutch disk

when clutch pedal was pushed in. Now I preceded to
put the two halves back together and while I was trying to get front drive shaft into
the universal joint yoke I see that it moves out from diff housing when I turn it clockwise
and pulls back in when I turn it counter clockwise. Now I'm thinking the bearings

are bad on the front pinion gear. I cleaned all of the grease out from around
the pinion shaft. Note! that grease is from the factory and it helps protect the

seal on the pinion shaft from dirt and water or whatever else could get in there.
Now I can see better and realized that the splined u joint yoke is just sliding back and forth
on the splined pinion shaft.They didn't put in the roll pin! It was just coincidental
that the yoke was moving in or out relative to rotation. Just an FYI I pressed
the roll pin in while I had the tractor split apart because I though it would be
easier, but with pin in I couldn't slide the yoke on pinion shaft

while putting the two halves back together and that made it harder to get everything lined up.

And after I had everything in place with the bolts
in the bell housing I realized I could have put roll pin after assembling the two halves and without
the pin in it would have been easier to get drive shaft into yoke and line up the input shaft to
the clutch disk all at the same time. Lesson learned.

At this point I loosened the bolts in the bell housing just enough to split tractor

and put the 3 bond sealer in between the two halves as per the factory manual.
I just wanted to share with anyone some of problems I'm having thanks to someone else's rig job.

 

Also if you are ever trying to fix a problem and your efforts aren't working,

check if you can to see if someone else's lack of knowledge or

quick fix methods are part of the problem.

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Edited by fxrs55, August 17, 2013 - 07:43 AM.

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#158 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 17, 2013 - 07:27 PM

I was able to spend some time on the Bolens today.
I checked the front differential and both gear cases
and the gear oil looks good. After I finished checking
the gear oil I cleaned and scraped the front axle.
I then did some wire brushing and sanding to
get the under side of the front frame ready for paint.
I sanded the front axle just to scuff up what was left
of the old paint. I wiped it all down with lacquer thinner
and then sprayed on the primer. Later in the day
I was able to spray on several coats of semi gloss black
and after that was dry I started some assembly.
Here are a few pictures.

 

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#159 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 01, 2013 - 10:22 PM

Did a little more assembly to tractor.
I got the new hydraulic fluid screen and installed
it along with the hydraulic lines. Also put
the rest of the front end together and installed
front tires. I used a small air cylinder to pump
hydraulic oil into the hydraulic lines and also
filled the pump with oil. I don't want
hydraulic pump running dry waiting for
lines to fill at first start up. Here are a
few pictures.

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#160 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2013 - 11:03 AM

Its Lives once again. It started right up after sitting for months. I also

had the fuel line off, So I bled the line and gave her a crank and Ahhh

the smell of diesel. Here are a few Pictures. Need to finish hood.

Oh the clutch works like it should.

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#161 HowardsMF155 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2013 - 12:41 PM

Major congratulations on finishing this project!  Now you need to get 'er dirty and show us all she can do!


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#162 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 03, 2013 - 02:19 PM

Holy cow you did it. :thumbs: Congratulations  :thumbs:

That has to be a good feeling. You didn't say if you drove it but I hope everything worked OK for you.


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#163 fxrs55 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 05, 2013 - 09:37 PM

I installed the snow blade and did some more testing.
I pushed a large pile of compost and when tires started
to spin I tried the diff lock which engaged and worked
good. I then put it into 4 wheel drive and front
wheels engaged and because of poor traction
they spun which was a good thing at least as far
as showing 4 wheel drive is working. some pictures.

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#164 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2013 - 06:22 AM

Nice work. I hope that you get many years of good service out of her(and hours of fun). After all the work you did on her, you deserve it. Did you keep track of your hours? Good Luck, Rick
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#165 Kfs35 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 06, 2013 - 05:12 PM

Wow, what a project! Looks great.

Bob




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