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Starting Grader Hydraulics Upgrade Update January 29 2013


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#1 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 09:10 AM

Have rounded up most everything, even got some money squirreled away for other parts and pieces.

Have two cylinders, but still looking for one more short one.  This is the 3 spool valve I have to use.

 
grader valve wrong color.jpg
 
 
and my rough plan
 

grader hyd.JPG

 
One spool will be for the permanent lift, spool #2 used for rear quick connects and side QC (for changing blade slope height from right high to left high when using as grader), #3 for front QC and under neath QC (for changing blade angle from angled to scrape to right or scrape to left when using as grader)

 

I have a power steering pump I am going to mount (hopefully) at the side of motor above starter, will mount valve in spot where battery used to be.  Does this valve have a "Float" setting?

 

What you guys think?  Any inputs welcome good or bad .

 

 

 


Edited by Michiganmobileman, January 29, 2013 - 10:20 PM.

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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 09:13 AM

Can't help on that valve, but this looks like a neat thread to follow, Greg! Good to see you posting more lately.


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#3 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 09:18 AM

Greg

 

I would say that valve has 1-spool valve with a float position.    It should be the valve on the end with the longer cap on the back.

the valve will have the normal in and out positions that go back to center when released but it should push past the "in" position and lock in place for the float.


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#4 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 09:27 AM

I thought that was what the longer cap was for, but wasn't sure. Thanks, Ray!



#5 bgkid2966 ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 11:47 AM

I am looking forward to reading along with your progress on this project. Thanks for sharing.

 

 

 

Geno


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#6 Bmerf ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 11:59 AM

Can't wait to see your progress, I'll be :watch_over_fence:

Here is a "short one" from Joes ($31.95/free shipping) http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c672e3889


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#7 chris m ONLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 04:06 PM

Looks like a great build. I am looking forward to following along as you build it. Good luck and like Kenny said glad to see you posting more again :thumbs: :D


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#8 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 04:48 PM

Thanks guys, glad to have a little free time and be able to post more.
Bmerf that is the type of cylinder I had my eyes on. Can anyone tell me how long of a throw this has?
I would be working on it now if we were not sitting on the ice fishing.
Original build thread
http://gardentractor...e-3#entry186312

Edited by Michiganmobileman, January 19, 2013 - 04:50 PM.


#9 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 05:27 PM

Call Joe and ask him about the stroke. If it is too short he might have something that will work for you. I've had good luck when contacting them by phone. 


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#10 Michiganmobileman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 10:19 PM

Update January 29 2013

 

Along with adding hydraulics I wanted to upgrade the electrical/charging system.  When I picked up the power steering pump at the local bone yard I also grabbed a GM one wire alternator.  I removed the starter/generator that I had put on when I first put this beast together, and re-installed the original gear drive starter with a new nose gear assembly.

Heres the side of the motor with the gear starter on, gained lots of space,

 

gear drive starter back on briggs.jpg

 

And I had hoped to put the power steering pump along this side too, run off the pulley on the engine.  But there was not really enough room to put here and still close the hood (without cutting any sheet metal).  No big deal, got lots of space up front to put things, so on to back up plan.  Raided the "not really scrap" pile to see what there may be waiting for me....... The frame pan from a tractor I parted out was really just the right width and plenty long, cordless sawzall in hand I liberated it from the rest of the carcass.

 

Starting with a cardboard template (Thanks Ray!) cut to fill the space in front of the engine.  Played around with the position of the PS pump first then added the alternator which pivots off the pump mount.  Enough done to measure for and pick up a belt and then finish the tension brace.  Can gain about 1.75 inches of belt length with full swing of alternator.  Every thing should stay under the hood too!

 

Heres some pics

 

all hidden under the hood.jpg

 

alternator pump left side.jpg

 

alternator pump right side.jpg

 

Still room for the battery way up front.  I foresee a change to the exhaust pipe, probably a stack.  But still have lots to do in regards to the rest of this first step, then I can work on the exhaust, the chrome bumper, the winch, the lights.....   

 

edit

And Ray you were right there is a float on that spool.   BONUS!!!


Edited by Michiganmobileman, January 29, 2013 - 10:21 PM.

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#11 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 11:40 PM

Greg, I'm sorry to be so late in on this build. 

 

You have come up with some great upgrades. :thumbs:  I can't wait to see how it works.


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#12 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2013 - 11:48 PM

Quite a few upgrades going on here.

I'm looking forward to following along as you proceed.

Just a thought, but you might want to put inline shutoff valves in, just before the

 QCs. That way you could have an attachment ready to go, without messing with the hoses

for the trim and tilt cylinders. And visa versa. Of course, you'd want to have easy access to them, so

I don't know if that's at all possible.


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#13 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2013 - 10:28 AM

This looks interesting. I was thinking of adding a power steering pump to mine to use for hydraulics, I have 3 of them lying in the garage. I will be watching the progress.

I love that tractor too, soo cool!!!


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#14 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2013 - 03:59 PM

This looks neat to follow. Greg, I like how you have them mounted. Good idea!


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#15 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted January 30, 2013 - 04:10 PM

That is looking good Greg.

Can I make a suggestion ... ?

 

Having had some experience in using a power steering pump to power hydraulics on a garden tractor, I would recommend that you put a double pulley on the engine crankshaft so you can run both belts on the pump.

 

Make your setup so you can run one belt between the crank and the pump with the pump rotating out to tighten that belt.

Then run the other belt over the crank, pump and alternator with the alternator rotating out to tighten that belt.


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