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1650 electric clutch ???


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#1 tyler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2010 - 06:33 AM

ok , i don't have the mower deck on. with the clutch disengaged the pulley spins and makes a noise like the bearing is bad. i can stop the spinning with a broom and the noise goes away. With it engaged noise goes away and seems to be working ok. i can't put mower deck on because it's in pieces, but if the belt holds the pulley from turning it should be all right??? i think the pulley should not turn at all disengaged. Just looking for some experience and knowledge before i take it apart.
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#2 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2010 - 06:50 AM

If the pulley is turning when the the clutch is disengaged,it is likely just centrifugal force spinning it.If that is the case,then if the belt was on it probably wouldn't spin.
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#3 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted September 12, 2010 - 08:29 AM

The pulleys will spin without any load as like Maynard said ,centrifical force will cause them to do that.However if it's ratteling like you say it is then there's something that needs to be checked out.There shouldn't be any rattelling comming from the clutch when it's disengaged.Sure when it's engaged the noise will stop ,so that tells me something is worn out.Brgs. or the sleeve,check the bolt holding the clutch onto the shaft as well.Regardless your best bet is to pull the clutch off and check to see whats worn[there's something not right].Its really quite simple to take the clutch off.There's a bolt holding it onto the shaft that you need to take off.The clutch will slip right off.The electro magnetic part is bolted to the motor[you won't have to take that off] Once you have the clutch off you can spin it to see if the brgs are bad?? maybe all they need is some grease you can do that with a greasing needle.The brgs are easy to remove just take the snap ring off the front off the clutch and push or drive them out from the back side.You'll need to check it out to find out whats wrong.Larry
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#4 tyler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2010 - 05:40 AM

thanks - greased it up and noise is gone. got turf tires yesterday, rims are painted. can't wait. got a line on a ford 125 he wants 50 bucks for it on kijjijjjii. and the best thing, he lives 2 blocks away from me

#5 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2010 - 07:44 AM

thanks - greased it up and noise is gone. got turf tires yesterday, rims are painted. can't wait. got a line on a ford 125 he wants 50 bucks for it on kijjijjjii. and the best thing, he lives 2 blocks away from me


Glad you got it working.Good luck with getting the Ford.Larry

#6 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2010 - 10:01 AM

Just keep an eye on the bearing(s) or bushing though. The grease may just be hiding the problem. If it was rattling it sounds like the bushing or bearing(s) might be worn out causing excessive play. I am sure the grease helped but it may just be covering up the problem.

#7 tyler OFFLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2010 - 04:41 AM

i'll keep a eye on it. the ford is gone. The other day i ordered a trans cooling fan for the 1650. the guy said he could order it, but i never got a price. think 10-25 bucks, he called me yesterday 110 bucks that is crazy. i told him i will make my own.

#8 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted September 16, 2010 - 07:50 AM

[quote name=' The other day i ordered a trans cooling fan for the 1650. the guy said he could order it, but i never got a price. think 10-25 bucks, he called me yesterday 110 bucks that is crazy. i told him i will make my own.[/QUOTE']

I ended up making my own as well,I used 1/16" plate,cut it out with a jigsaw with metal blade.Can't remeber the exact dia. Has to be small enough so as to clear the guard thats built into the frame of the tractor.I twisted the blades so that the air is blown into the pump.The center of the blade I welded it onto the metal hub of the old blade,this way it's removable just like what the old plastic one was.My oem blade broke when the rod that's used to raise the snowblower came loose and worked it's way into where the blade spins.I had part of the old blade to go by but if you need anymore info I have a pattern out in the shop that I can take pics and measurements of if you need. Larry

#9 tinner OFFLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2010 - 12:01 AM

I almost croaked when I got a quote of $110 for my 1650. I found a parts tractor that had one that wasn't perfect shape but does the job ok. I had decided that if I couldn't find one I would either build one or buy a 12 volt fan and mount it under the seat where the little tool box is and wire it directly to the ignition switch.

#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted September 17, 2010 - 09:01 AM

The fan actually does little to cool. The best thing you can do is add an oil cooler, but space is tight. I may end up adding a small cooler just in front of the flywheel air intake on my 1855 as she gets used hard in hot weather at times. You'd simply plumb into the return line to route to the cooler, then back to the return port.
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#11 alley oop OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2013 - 10:14 AM

The fan actually does little to cool. The best thing you can do is add an oil cooler, but space is tight. I may end up adding a small cooler just in front of the flywheel air intake on my 1855 as she gets used hard in hot weather at times. You'd simply plumb into the return line to route to the cooler, then back to the return port.


Did you end up adding the oil cooler? If so how did it work out?

#12 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2013 - 10:17 AM

Did you end up adding the oil cooler? If so how did it work out?

 

Yes, but I now have a Yanmar diesel in the tractor, so I have an oil cooler mounted between the dash tower & the engine.  It's a fan powered ATV oil cooler, but when using the tractor even in hot weather, the outlet of the cooler is cool enough to leave your hand on it without even using the fan!  Coolers are the way to go if using a hydro hard.


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#13 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2013 - 10:47 AM

They are on both my FF's!


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