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518h Project Tractor


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#1 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 12:07 AM

Got tired of rowing gears in my JD214, swapped it for this 518h WH.  So far I have swapped in a rear end from a 520h, still need to get a hydro filter base assembly and the hard line that goes forward from the base unit. I have all the parts to put the hyd lift on the 518, but need to find someone local to heat up the center arm on the hyd lift rock shaft so it will come appart.  I will just cut the manual lift off the 518.  Future plans include a 520 dash with full gauges, and a professional repaint of the hood, fender and foot rests.  I will redecal her for the 518 "Europa" export model that was outfitted better.  She runs good for having sat almost 6 years, over 100lbs compression in both sides but still just a touch of oil smoke on hard throttle ups.  I think it will clear up once she gets run under more of a load than the hydro drive creates.  There is seafoam in the fuel and MMO in the oil.  I got decent rear hub caps with it, got front ones from the gentleman I got the other upgrade parts from.  Right now I have the 48" snowblade and chains installed on it, came with a solid 48" mower deck, but thats to large to fit thru the shed doors, looking to swap it for a 42 RD mower deck. An Onan P218 and a 42" mower should be pretty much unstoppable.   Onan got its valves adjusted the same day I did my buddies 318 that just hit 500 hours on its Linamar replacement P218.  Both intake and exhaust were out of whack on his.  Tight on the exhaust and to loose on the intake.  He had been complaining she was hard starting, I can see why with the intake valves opening late and closing early.  I am running without my belt guard till I get vents installed to help keep that rear cylinder cool on the 518.  I am a die hard Onan fan, prefer working on them over any Mag or KT twin.  They are just misunderstood by many and skimped on when rebuilding many times,  Guys forget to check ring and ring groove clearance on the pistons when overhauling, miss aligning cam bearings ect. Onans were developed for gen-set operation and are high performance by design, that requires better upkeep, valve adjustments, decarboning ect.  Most of which never got done by the past owners.  Nothing beats an Onan in full song, the throaty roar is unlike any other flat twin.  Neither a Briggs or Kohler flat twin sounds as mean as an Onan that is in proper tune.   BTW, word is Cummins/Onan has released the rights to produce parts and Stens is now bringing out aftermarket rebuild parts, I just bought a Stens voltage regulator at about half the price of the Onan OEM one.  This should help bring down rebuild costs.  But if you have priced OEM Kohler KT and Mag parts lately, they are almost right up there with OEM Onan.  Here is a pic of the 518 after I pressure washed all the gunk off the oil pan from a leaky/loose drain tube after I fixed that.  Both jugs were nice and clean thankfully, just a very oily crankcase base.  Paint job is shot/peeling.  Decals are gone in prep for repaint.   Cheers  Mike

wheelhorse008.jpg

wheelhorse003.jpg


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#2 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 12:22 AM

  BTW, word is Cummins/Onan has released the rights to produce parts and Stens is now bringing out aftermarket rebuild parts

 

That's music to our ears, right there.

 

Congrats on the new machine.



#3 jms180 ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 08:04 AM

Looks good I like the Onan engine



#4 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 09:30 AM

There are 3 Onans on CL down near Cincy for anybody looking for one.  They are priced very affordable, $325 for one with the chrome air cleaner and 300 for 2 other.  I believe they are all P220's and from WH's  Any longer frame WH can have an Onan engine.  I am looking for a junker 2000 series cub cadet to swipe the 14hp Onan elite single cylinder horzontal shaft engine to repower a short frame WH with an Onan. Onan's are one of the most misunderstood small engines.  Everybody has gotten totaly spoiled by the ablity to totaly abuse a K series Kohler and suffer little to no ill effects.  Kind of like a simple small block chevy.  But the Onan is the high performance version of any engine, think of a LT1 corvette,  You cant go abuse that and keep up the high performance levels.  Onans are gen-set engines adapted to L&G use, they like to be clean, kept full of oil and get regular valve adjustments, every 400 hours on unleaded gas by the book.  A full degreasing, oil change with new filter, valve adjustment and decarboning should be the number ONE thing every new owner of a used Onan should do, unless the PO can prove it was done with reciepts for parts or pics with documention of the hours on the engine when done.  I am waiting on a VR right now, the 518 isnt charging so after a little bit the battery gets low and she starts to cut out.   Stator is putting out good, but just nominal batt voltage at the VR, so no charging going on.    Cheers  Mike



#5 Tankman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 09:46 AM

Very nice Mike! Looks like a great project tractor.

 

I'm 'bout ready to start on a '90 520-8 that I picked up a week ago (for a song).

 

Good luck with the restore. I'm not experienced with Onan's, guess I'll have to learn.  :beer:

 

Couldn't keep my hands off the Horse, started working on it. Might take awhile!

Rear tires are heavy, added lug nuts to the rear hubs too!

 

520-8-Left_Side.jpg 520-8_Swept_Axle.jpg 520-8_Lugs.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by Tankman, January 29, 2013 - 03:42 PM.


#6 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 12:11 PM

Go over on mytractorforum, there is an excellent thread on proper Onan overhaul and what to check and what is commonly missed when rebuilding these engines.  Have you fired yours up to see if it runs ok, or does the engine have issues?   Feel free to PM me if you have any Onan specific questions.  I have all the shop manuals for the B and P series on CD and in book form for the B and and CCK.  You will want to do the belt guard modification.  The belt guard blocks the hot air from easily exiting the engine bay, and its usualy the rear cylinder that has the issues.  I have seen guys get loovers punched in the guard, or cutting an opening and welding in a piece of metal mesh to allow air flow but keep objects out of the belt area.  I am going with the welded in mesh personaly.  Looks like you have a good starting point.   Cheers  Mike



#7 Tankman OFFLINE  

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Posted January 21, 2013 - 05:44 PM

Just fired up the kitchen wood stove for the "boss lady", she likes a fire when she gets home.

 

On the kitchen counter, a wireless Thinkpad is reading forum posts.

 

FYI. Skateboard grip tape makes great foot rests. I have it on two old Horses. Use the coarse grip tape, inexpensive, one piece does left and right, holds up great, easy to apply too.  :wave:



#8 mtoney ONLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2013 - 07:51 PM

Thru the generosity of another tractor guy localy, the 518 has newer shoes on the rear.  The right rear was nolonger holding air due to the dry rot. Took it up to the tire place to get it tubed and when they took it off the rim, the internal belts had broken and come thru thru the rubber in several areas, so no tube.  WIth no funds to buy tires we had an issue.  I post here and on CL netted a nice pair of Dico multi trac CS turfs off a John Deere 260 the owner had put ag tires on.  Hour round trip to go get them and the 518 is back running again.  Wont be much else in progress till warmer weather and I can attack the paint issues and get the hyd lift installed.   Cheers   Mike



#9 Tankman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 10, 2013 - 08:18 PM

Skateboard coarse grip tape is on the footrests, belt guards on. New SS hardware + Never-Seez® as always on bolt threads unless I'm using threadlocker. The grip tape hold up really well, easy to apply with its' double sticky backing.

 

Tomorrow, I have to sand the fender assembly. Had already sand blasted the sheetmetal but

I want the smooth "bright" finish.

 

WH-Footrests.jpg

 

 






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