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Sears Ss12 Refurb/resto/rebuild


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#1 mebebob OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 05:58 PM

Hello, I've been reading this site for a few weeks now to get some info before tearing into my first tractor rebuild. Near as I can tell, I have a 1968 Super 12. Model number is 25350, engine number is 602112.20121228_151333.jpg

 

This is what it used to look like.

 

 

20121231_170153.jpg

 

 

This is what it looks like now.

 

 

I have lots of pictures but I'm evidently not very good at posting them here.

 

 

My first question is: how do I get the key out of the crankshaft without harming anything? I'm talking about the key on the flywheel end. I've already removed piston and cam, valves and crank are still in.

 

This motor was started a few weeks ago prior to it becoming a project. Ran if for a couple of minutes and then shut it off. Indoors, carbon monoxide built up quick. Lots of oil all over engine and tractor but the internals look pretty good to me. Piston has discoloration on both pin sides. Lots of carbon build up on piston and valves. There was wet oil covering the head gasket but the gasket is not blown. I have had no trouble at all removing any bolt on this motor and was surprised at how easy the head bolts came loose.

 

That last paragraph is for the guy that's been there and done that.

 

I'm going to put a rebuild kit to use on the motor whether it needs it or not. All that oil had to come from somewhere even though the rings look good. They were loose on the piston, the edges are sharp and there is no scoring at all on a perfectly smooth bore.

 

Well, this should be enough to get us started. Thanks for reading.


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#2 mebebob OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 06:08 PM

Ok, those went through, here are a few more.

 

20121228_151353.jpg 20121228_151417.jpg 20121228_151429.jpg 20121228_151456.jpg 20121228_151521.jpg


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#3 mebebob OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 06:13 PM

20121231_140416.jpg 20121231_140427.jpg 20121231_164144.jpg 20121231_170213.jpg 20121231_170230.jpg 20130101_134549.jpg 20130101_134819.jpg 20130101_135118.jpg 20130101_135128.jpg 20130101_135432.jpg

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#4 chris m OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 06:17 PM

Sounds like you are coming right along on that Bob!

 

As far as the key I usually will use a brass punch and drive the key backwards on the shaft if the key-way is slopped forward to the end of the shaft.

If it is an actual step on the shaft then I will use a prick punch, To do this just put the punch point in the center of the end of the key and give it a hit with the hammer straight on to make a dimple in the key, the I take the same prick punch and put it back in the dimple, angled so when you hit it again it is driving the front of the key up. after it lifts a little in the front then you can take a thin screwdriver or something similar and tap it under the front of the key and then pry it out.

 

But before you do any of this soak it well with PB Blaster ( if it is rusted on the shaft)

 

If you do happen to mar the key up a bit when banging on it with a punch, Just take the key and clean it up on a piece of emery paper on a flat surface to remove the burrs. That is of coarse if you are going to reuse the same key.

 

Good luck :thumbs:


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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 06:49 PM

Bob, that's a really nice 12! Are you talking the flywheel or the output pullies key?
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#6 mebebob OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 06:56 PM

Thanks Chris. I hope that every question I have on this project is answered as quickly, as descriptive, and as comprehensive as your post. That was very helpful and that's the first thing I'll do on it tomorrow.

 

 

 

edit: The flywheel end.


Edited by mebebob, January 16, 2013 - 06:57 PM.

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#7 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 07:02 PM

Welcome to GTT. You've got a nice tractor and you're off to a great start. How did you find such a nice condition tractor? Good Luck


Edited by boyscout862, January 16, 2013 - 07:03 PM.


#8 mebebob OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 07:09 PM

The tractor actually belongs to my father. Him and mom moved into their house about 3 years ago and he picked it up in the estate sale for 250. There is a mower, front blade, disc, cultivator, 3pt hitch.

 

No bolt has given me trouble in disassembling this tractor. The steering wheel still isn't off. The steering wheel is a worthy opponent and I have granted him a stay. However, I am going to win. Secret weapon.



#9 Farmlife OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 07:14 PM

917.25350 1968 Sears Suburban 12 Electric

Your Sears is actually listed as a


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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 07:16 PM

With those half moon keys, the best way I've found for the persistent ones is either what Chris said above, or brace under the big part of the taper on the shaft with the key up and whack the part of the key closest to the block with a brass hammer. Once it twitches, smack the other end and work it back and forth until you can pull it up with vice grips or with a screwdriver. My Grandpa had an old large pair of end nippers he used to use. Faster, but with less finesse.
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#11 mebebob OFFLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 07:24 PM

I guess my main concern is damage to the bearings. I'll put some wood under the shaft to support it as much as I can.



#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 16, 2013 - 08:03 PM

Honestly, they're timken bearings... Pretty hard to hurt them, but prudence is a good idea.
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#13 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 09:53 AM

Welcome to GTT, Nice tractor and good deal, I got almost exact same package with my SS12 when I got it.

Where in Ky are you from?

 

As Tractorlife stated, you do have a '68, but it is a '68 Suburban 12 electric start. Someone has changed the hood and grill on you to match a SS12 tractor. The dash is also from a standard suburban, not an SS. SS12's were also blue, the orange was the standard tractors. Just means you didn't get the fancy grill and cigerette lighter. I wished my 68 SS12 was in half that shape.

Yes, the head bolts usually are not very tight, many times they get blown head gaskets due to lose bolts. Good to run a few cycles of heat/cool then re-tighten once you get it back together.

I too use the brass punch method to remove a key, last resort to heat.

You got lucky the cap was on steering wheel. Most are missing and have gotten so rusted, many guys cut the shaft to get them off and the press out nub and replace shaft.

Be careful with the SSI module on top of flywheel, those are very expensive to replace, if you can find a good used one.

 

 

 

http://www.vintagese...ewsuburban.html



#14 mebebob OFFLINE  

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Posted January 17, 2013 - 04:20 PM

<p>Tahoe, yeah, that was what I was thinking as well. It appears in pics and literature that the tractor is 2 different models with 1 model number. My father spoke with the son of the man, who was the original and only owner, and he said nothing had ever been changed on the tractor. If you notice in one of the pics, there is a &quot;2&quot; stamped at the end of the model number. Why? We'll probably never know.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>I'm a little east of Louisville. Short story...bil and I killed the ssi. Am getting the new ignition from Ed Stoller and Mike Brooks. Super nice guys and a pleasure to deal with.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Question: The intake lobe on the cam has a flatter radius than that of the exhaust lobe. I can also see, and barely feel, a slight indentation on the intake push rod as well. Will this be ok? Is it normal? Do I need a new cam?</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Chris, I went to the workshop earlier and tapped the key with a punch. Popped out easily on the 3rd hit, or punch if you will.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>As for all the oil that covered the motor, tractor, front wheels, etc...there is no gasket to speak of between the crank cover and the block. There are traces of it on both surfaces, but no gasket to remove per se. Does everyone think a regular rebuild kit will be good enough for this motor? Rod and cap surfaces are perfect. No scoring on crank journal either. Everything looks and feels good with the exception of the discoloration on the sides of the piston and the carbon build up in the head and on top of the piston/valves.</p>

Edited by mebebob, January 17, 2013 - 04:24 PM.


#15 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 10:40 AM

That is strange though, but if it is all original the "special" on the grill may indicate a special ordered tractor, I dunno. My SS12 is a 25311 model

Ed is a great guy to deal with, he readily answers my emails. I was going to purchase a pickup from him and buy my own stuff, but my daring nature has made me try to modify my current module to use it as the pickup as Ed's website describes, have to seel how well that goes. I think I can do it for under $50, that's my plan.

I know one of the crank covers also determines end play of crank. Parts tree.com sells end plate shims so you can get it right, sorry, don't ask me how to set them, never rebuilt one before, just read it. I do know if that is not set correctly, you can get a knock which sounds like rod knock.

I would wonder about the cam lobe, here is specs on the cam lobes, looks to be same for both intake and exhaust,

 "nose to heel"

min- 1.3045

max- 1.3085

You may need a new cam.

Do you have a Tecumseh engine manual? I have a copy in PDF, shoot me your email through PM, I will send you a copy, it has all the specs and great for doing rebuild, step by step.


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