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#16 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 08:28 PM

If you go to the larger rear tires, you will have to upgrade the fronts the larger 16 6.50-8 that the larger Horses use in order to keep the mower deck level, if your not gonna mow then dont worry bout it.  I used to have a 312-8 and I am brokering a deal for my new neighbor to purchase one right now.  What Toro doesnt stock, the local bearing supply house or partstree will.  Welcome to the world of Wheel Horse, IMHO there isnt a better tractor out there that is as simple and easy to work on as a WH.  Many times if the axle seals are leaking the lube gets into the hubs as well and helps them come off the axle.  You can also loosen the set bolts, leave the tire bolted to the hub and smack the tire on the back side with a rubber mallet or baby sledge hammer if you just hit the rubber tire and not the rim.  Sometimes this will work the hub loose.  Hopefully you get lucky and they come right off.  WH's are easily repowered if the engine dies.  Your tractor could sport all the way up to the big Onan P220  20HP twin with the right motor plate under it if you wanted more HP.  You can get slot or clevis(sleeve hitch style) lift hitches for the rear as well.  If you have any mechanical questions, feel free to PM me and I can give you my cell.  I repair small engines/L&G equipment as a profession.  And not to dog this site, but you will also want to join Redsquare forum, its nothing but Wheel Horses and you can get much faster help with brand specific parts or problems many times.   Cheers   mike



#17 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 18, 2013 - 08:40 PM

Dag-nabbit, all the seals were a go with the exception of the transmission imput shaft seal. The I.D. diameter was a go but the outside had issues and I didn't notice the change until the damage was done. 

 

I attempted to install a SKF 6120 purchased at NAPA. Wtrong seal for the imput shaft on this tractor.

 

Thoughts?

 

Also tried to purchase an imput shaft pulley/hub replacement locally and that didn't work either. Have one more outlet and then to the OEM source. Hope it's still available. 

 

Lastly, removed the trans-axle to inspect where it mounts to the drop plate off the frame. Rust was evident on the plate and front of the trans. Removed the rust, scrubbed, cleaned and coated wit POR15.

 

That's all for now. Would maybe like to post some pics if possible.

 

 



#18 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 07:51 AM

Thanks for the imput Mike. I'm with you on favoring Wheel Horses's. A dealer once told my nephew, "The problem with selling a guy a Wheel Horse Tractor is that if he takes any kind of care of it you won't see him again for thirty years".

 

Pretty much sums it up. I bought my H20 new in 1995 and had to put a mower drive belt on it so far. Most tractors now days are (throw aways) for the most part.



#19 mtoney OFFLINE  

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Posted January 19, 2013 - 09:16 PM

My buddy and I stopped by the huge Deere dealership down in Indy to check on a part for his 318 and we were looking at one of the larger X700 series, diesel, 4wd ect, the hood was thin plastic, the whole fender pan was a thick plastic.  Talk about cheap feeling. For almost $12,000 I expect some metal darn it!  I cant wait for warmer weather so I can really start refurbishing my sad looking 518.  Most all new stuff is a throw away, from non servicable transmissions, poor paint jobs, plastic hoods that can crack and splinter with the slighest bump or wrong pull when opening.  Engines that cant last hardly 500 hours.  What junk. 



#20 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 20, 2013 - 08:23 AM

Went to NAPA yesterday and I hope I have the right transmission imput shaft seal coming. Ordered an SKF 6105. It's a really small seal with no spring on the lip. Still striking out on an input shaft pulley though. The pulley's I'm finding are correct with the exception of the off set. Might have to use Parts Tree in the end.

The trans-axle is back in and the rusted areas painted with POR15. Also decided to replace all the case bolts with grade eight bolts, hardened flat washers on the bolt heads and flanged locking nuts as well. Always kind of wondered why Wheel Horse never used a little better of a fastener with flanged nuts or at the very least some washers? Also staggered the direction of all the case bolts. The factory had them going all to the left as viewed from the rear. Not sure if it will make a hill of beans worth of a difference as far as strength but it seemed like the right thing to do.

Installed grade eight bolts where the transaxle fastens to the frame plate. Used flat washers there as well. I had an Electro 12 that cracked out do to lack of reinforcement and no flat washers. Those are (wet holes) where the trans-axle mounts so I used sealer on the threads.

Used lots of anti-seize on the hubs during assembly as well as on the brake drum and hi/low range shifter. Scored a bolt on universal seat yesterday at a local tractor supply.

Soon it will be time to address the steering issue. It looks like the upper steering bearing/collar slid down and was just ran that way for a while? The steering shaft wallowed the hole going through the console. It will have to be welded and worked with a grinder to get it's shape back.

Edited by CKT, January 20, 2013 - 08:35 AM.


#21 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 23, 2013 - 04:42 PM

Dang steering wheel. Was able to get the roll pin out but the wheel wouldn't budge. Ended up having to remove the console, shaft and all to get the wheel off the tractor body. Not before breaking the lower support though. :mad2:

 

Had to use an air chisel to get the wheel off the shaft. It's now officially junk. The shaft was also worn badly from riding on the console instead of the upper column bushing. Was able to weld up the oblong hole in the console and reshape it to fit the upper bushing. Will wait until the new bushing arrives to do a final check on the size.

 

Have a support and shaft ordered. Also ordered a steering wheel for a 310-8. They didnt have a wheel for a 312-8 availiable. I sure hope it will fit? If not I'll have to send it back and think of Plan B.

 

In the meantime the battery box area, tray and side pieces are rust free and painted with POR15. Will start on the wirng tomorrow.


Edited by CKT, January 23, 2013 - 04:50 PM.


#22 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted January 26, 2013 - 09:21 PM

Plugging away. Slowly going back together. Actually, had it running again and it ran so good it wouldn't shut off?

 

I installed an  automotive style ignition switch  and it doesn't have a ground on (shut down) therefore it keeps on running. Plan on wiring in an additional toggle switch to accomadate ground (shut-down) function. It will be a matter of flipping a toggle switch  along with the ignition switch.

 

As Tonto stated after seeing underneath the Lone Rangers Mask, "No Big Deal".

 

I would like to give a big (shout out) to Parts Tree. They have been super!

 

Thanks to TankMan too for the reference.


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#23 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2013 - 04:53 AM

The new steering shaft and wheel are installed. Used a steering wheel off a 310-8 because a wheel for a 312-8 was no longer availiable. The difference is cosmetic only. Otherwise, it went right on. Used plenty of anti-seize on the steering shaft where the wheel installs as well as on the roll pin. All I can say is what a difference. The steering is nice and tight once again.
 
Still have to install the hood and the plug on the rear for the weed sprayer. Otherwise, hopefully will be slinging some paint this weekend. Parts Tree has been a great resource on this project.

Edited by CKT, February 01, 2013 - 09:18 AM.

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#24 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2013 - 05:19 AM

Sounds like you are moving along good on this. Got any pics for us to look at? We like pics! Check out my signature for help uploading them!



#25 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2013 - 08:08 AM

Thank you sir. Will try and get some pics up this weekend.
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#26 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2013 - 08:15 AM

No need to call me sir! Just want to help you along with the thread!



#27 CRFarnsworth ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2013 - 08:34 PM

SIR KENNY        Kinda has a ring to it..



#28 CRFarnsworth ONLINE  

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Posted February 01, 2013 - 08:36 PM


 
 

 Sound s like you have made a lot of progress and  done a lot of work .  Good luck on it comng together soon.  Rick



#29 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2013 - 08:49 AM

This was during (tear down). You can see in the pics the machine likely sat outside in the weather for an extended period of time. The hood was really faded on top and on one side the decals were also faded away.

 

I tried to high light just how bad the rust was taking over in the battery box area and how the steering shaft got badly worn from the locking collar loosening. It slid down causing bad slop/wear on the shaft and console. It's amazing it was ran this way? A very easy fix that was neglected?

 

I simply used POR15 on all the rusted sheetmetal. Upon final assembly I will scuff up the black areas and paint them red.

 

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Edited by CKT, February 02, 2013 - 08:50 AM.


#30 CKT OFFLINE  

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Posted February 02, 2013 - 09:20 AM

Treated the rusted battery box area. Basically all new wiring. Ran direct power to the automotive style ignition switch on a fuseable link. Tried to get a shot of the 30/40 amp relay for the weed sprayer power. Thinking I am going to put the headlamps on a relay as well.

 

Removed all the PTO linkage and hardware. This tractor is going to be tasked for plowing and spraying. I did save all the bits and pieces though.

 

Time for the hood and a little paint. Just planning on (spot painting). Hopefully get the plow mounted this weekend as well.

 

The final touch will be the $80.00 hood ornament I purchased yesterday.

 

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